huunz

Ok, so it seems to me that if I'm going to have to rebuild the motor anyway, a little Sneaky Pete setup on the 650 might be fun. I'm thinking something to top the dune at Comp Hill, that kind of thing.

Has anyone built a N2O system for a Joyner? I figured I'd drill and tap the bottom of the intake with Fogger nozzles, put the smallest jets available in and hit it halfway up.

Anyone done this?

Oh, and is it a full rebuild kit, with rod and main bearings?

Silverbullet

It not the cc but the high compression forged pistons and the Total seal rings.Joyner use vary poor rings and pistons.We floot the wrist pins on the rods this helps.The quality is vary importment and these pistons are the best you can get the Total seal rings stop the lose of compression.Ad a custom cam and rejet carb.

Thanks Rick

Which way would I rejet? I put the Weber 45 DCOE on it, and it was jetted by Fast Freddie for the Joyner. Would I have to drill the throttle plates for idle with that cam?

I'm going to guess that I need to tear it down first and see if it needs an overbore to clean it up, or if I can go stock size. How long would it take for the kit to get assembled and out once I figure out if I need stock or 0.020" over?

How much you asking for yours huunz

Which parts do you want? If you want the whole thing, give me your ZIP so i can figure out shipping. Mine would have no guarantees like Silver Bullet might, but it ran when I took it off. I have the intake system, and also a snorkel with a Uni filter on top to get the intake location up out of the sand.

I tried to do the math, it appears that 0.020" over won't do a lot for the CCs. It is about 1/2 MM, on a 76 MM bore would be 76.5 MM. That would give me a 653 afterwards vice a 644 CC stock, a 1.4% increase in displacement.

So I still need to do a full rebuild for your kit? Grind crank, bore the cylinders, etc?

What is a "cam card"?

What size will the engine be after the overbore at 0.020"? Can I go bigger after this?

How much "bigger" is the cam? Will a two cylinder "lope"?

Will a head porting job help with this kit?

Do I need to run race gas, or can I get by with 91 octane?

I still need to do a compression check, but i like the kit....

I went to your website, found the kit. Are those rings ZGS type? How much increase in compression do you get with the pistons?

The top of the valve cover has a hose that goes to a little filter, that's it. There's no oil dripping, but I can hear the "huffing" in the filter.

Can you up the compression with those pistons?

Plastic off road lights to replace the stock lights. More about being able to see at night, but still a good weight loss. Took off the winch and wiring, there's nothing to hook it to in the sand anyway.

On the add side, welded on tabs for the flag, and mounts for the flashing lights.

I have the entire intake take-off from the 2006 650 Sand Spider 2 cylinder. Carb, manifold, and air cleaner setup.

Hi, I have the 650 Sand Spider 2 cylinder I've written about here before. I put in the Fast Freddie weber kit, Fox AirShox with limit straps and long travel, modified/built a better header, fixed the lighting (including flashing blue and amber rear safety lights), put on paddles in the back and made my own front runners from worn-out stock tires, and tore up the dunes at Dumont. Well, I couldn't get clear to the top, not enough power, which I'll be working on. Anyway, after a particularly gnarly high speed run, it started missing a little. I cleaned the carb jets (gotta love a Weber) and made sure everything was as it should be externally, but when it idles, the valve cover breather is blowing out a lot of blowby.

Is this normal? Do others have a lot of blowby? Did I break a ring?

Is there a list of ring sizes to possibly cross reference a set of Zero Gap Second rings?

Has anyone tried a crankcase evacuation system using drag race car evac setups?

Is there a hotter cam for this motor? Are overbore pistons available?

Has anyone run this motor at sustained high speeds?

I found the 650 Sand Spider to have the 3/4" tread, not the 20MM. A 20MM filter will be a just a tiny bit loose as you spin it on. The really critical part is the length, as too long of a filter will hit the frame. Pictures in my gallery.

I used these, they work great. I got little MC turn signals to replace the broken ones.

My link

I got it, thanks! There don't seem to be that many of these out there, but mine, after all the stuff I've fixed/repaired/modified, seems like a nice little sand car. Now for that cam swap

650 Sand Spiders (two cylinder models) with Thread Size 3/4X16 " can use:

STP S3614

Oil filter for the 650 Sand Spider - STP S3614 will fit without hitting the frame rail. The crossover in the Fram brand is too long, so although a PH 3614 looks as though it should fit, it won't clear the frame.

You may have to loosen the motor mount nuts (14 mm wrench) to jimmy the engine up high enough to install the filter. I had to take the nuts clear off to jimmy the engine high enough to get the Fram filter in there, but then the end of the filter contacted the frame.

You can see how close it gets in the picture, and this is the STP filter.

The filter has a 3/4" thread, not the more common (for imports) 20 mm thread.

I do not know if there is a resource on here for the US brands of oil filters, but after several trips to auto parts stores, I found the STP brand S3614 oil filter fits the Joyner 650 Sand Spider, the two-cylinder model. A Fram filter looks like it should fit, but it is just a tiny bit too long, and contacts the frame rail. The STP filter is a crossover in the books, but in actuality, it is about 1/4 inch shorter, so it will squeeze in there. This new filter let me remove the dual PH8A filters i had that took so long to get oil pressure up when I started it. There are pictures in my gallery.

But anyway, is there a resource for people who have done that kind of research to put their findings up?

The Wix filter might fit the stock joyner, but won't replace the Fram PH8As that are now in place. The Frams, by the way, are "anti-drainback".

The Weber is working awesome. Starts right up, lots of power, at least relative to what it used to have, and easy to drive.

What will the cam do Silverbullet? And is it for the two cylinder 650, or the three cylinder?

oil filters are supposed to anti drain back , maybe your next filter won't do that, or maybe you should try a different brand.

I used Fram PH 8A filters. They have been the defacto standard for the large dual filter setups, but this is the first time I've mounted the filters higher than the crankcase. I may have to do some research into anti-drainback type filters that cross over. They did add one whole quart of capacity to the system, and i didn't have to buy a single part, it was all on the shelf.

I found an anti-drainback check valve in the Jeg's catalog, but it was fifty bucks, so I passed.

I've been slowly working on my 650 Sand Spider, got the rear Fox AirShox in, the Weber carb, and now have started on the front Fox AirShox. The pictures are up with captions in my gallery section.

Some minor problems - the oil filter setup allows the oil to drain back to the motor when it sits for a while. This means I have low oil pressure and an oil light at startup, so I have to wait for the oil to come up before I can take off. I don't know what the long term affect will be on the engine.

Would there be much benefit if I took my 650 commando pipe and instead of it going into one pipe and then to muffler, i ran 2 pipes to 2 mufflers. Or is the y-pipe helping pull exhaust from the other cylinder.

I think the 2-into-1 has some benefit in torque. These little motors are sorely lacking in that, so anything you can do will help.

We got a sweet deal on a 26' enclosed trailer. So much nicer than the old open trailer. In addition, you can sleep in an enclosed trailer.

Here's my build

My link

Here's the link to the pics

My link

OK, the new Weber worked great at the dunes! That thing is so much nicer now, it just goes and goes.

Not all the parts will cross. Even though the thread pitch, size, etc, is correct, the Joyner filter adapter is just a few threads shy of long enough to reach the filter to fit Mazda branded under Bosch. I had two filters that should have worked, but they didn't. I used an old adapter from my 91 Nissan pickup, modified it slightly, and ran some -10 AN hose from it to a filter mount that holds two Fram PH8A filter elements. Pics are up in my gallery, can't post them in the thread itself.