MauyThai1

I did some of what Lenny has but I also used a spray in foam sealer for the cracks and open spaces under the dask and in the floor. My T2 has a full cab enclosure with jeep style zip up windows. Finding and sealing al the open spaces keeps all of the dust out of the cab, now I just need to install a heater due to the -5 degree weather I have been hunting in.

Jeff I have 4 stock shocks and two rear axels from a T2 if any one is needing them.

LowGear contact me at 970-986-0268 we can get them to you.

Lenny I did get the over boost problem fixed with a boost regulator, now it stops at about 8 psi but it will still try to over heat if I run fast for a while. As for stting a bad example thats is the way we have to roll. LOL

Thanks for the info gentelmen, I will be tearing into it today, hope it is fixable. I haven't tried new shocks but I will looking now. Was the Fox shock the 8.5. I have about 3500 miles on it now and I had hoped I had all the problems fixed other then it still wants to get warm if I run it down the road over 4000 rpm for awhile. Starting to think I may look at the Wild Cat if my Trooper is going to have issues. This is the second time I have had to limp it back and the Trooper doesnt operate real well in just front wheel drive.

I will post what I find and Thanks again for the help. Robert.

Please excuse the typo's in my last, I'm in my car, is that legal?

Yes I'm an't dead yet, soory I didn't see you message. I have the injectors I bought from Lenny, I was trying them but I guess I couldn't get the fuel pressue right because the engine would start with them in. If you are still intrested let me know I'll sell them for 80.00 although Lenny charged me 500.00. LOL

Has anyone had problems with axles other then pulling apart? I was just pulling my trooper off of the road to park when I heard a loud bang and then no drive train. I checked the rear axles as that was were the sound came from and I found the left axle would just spin inside the cup. I had to drive the 25 miles back in front wheel drive as I had no rear wheel due to the spinning axle. I haven't had a chance to tear it down What happened anyone?

There are a number of things that could cause that. I would think that if it doesn't do it above 3000 rpms, it should be getting fuel ok. But check that just the same. Try disconnecting the IAC, idle air control on the throttle body. It can run fine without it but, it may not idle correctly and you may have to adjust the throttle butterfly stop screw on the throttle body to get it to idle. Check all your connections by unpluging them and reinserting them. A loose of poor connecton could be intermittenly breaking the circuit at a certain rpms viabration. Try switching your air fuel sensors that are on the exhaust. One is before the converter and the other after. You will have to cut and splice the wires because the plugs are different. This sensor tells the computer if it needs more or less fuel buy looking at the first sensor to see if there is too much fuel left in the exhause gases or too much oxygen. The computer then adjust for the condition. If the sensor was bad, it could cause the computer to get confused. I'm not sure how it woulld act if the second sensor is bad. That sensor is for EPA compliance. Either way if one is bad and you switch them it shoud run different telling you that one of the sensors is bad. I think Auto zone can check them for you if you bring them in or google it for how to check them yourself. Make sure your spark plug wires are not touching the head. If they were bad or in poor condition, they can cause misfires but not surging so quick. If your throttle position sensor on the throttle body had a bad spot in it, it could give the computer bad information at that point. For example, the computer might get the wrong voltage from the sensor making think you let up on the throttle when you really didn't or are accelerating when your not. When it is between surges is it blubbering or acting like its out of fuel momentarily. Obviously when it's surging, it's not low on fuel at that moment. If it's blubbering in between surges, it's probably getting too much fuel then cleans itself out. If it's just cutting out then it's probably not getting enough fuel momentarily. you could unplug the knock sensor which is just behind the starter on the side of the block. I think it will run with this unpluged. Keep in mind that most all the sensors are to give the computer signals that indicate rather it needs more or less fuel or more or less timing. It may not be anything of these things but if you methodically go thru stuff and check where you can at least you can eliminate potentials. Without a computer code signal reader, you can only keep hunting. I'm sure some of the other forum guys will have some good ideas too.

Lenny

I had the same problem so I eliminated the "cat converter" and both oxigen sensors, seems to have fixed it. Keep in mind I also have a Turbo.

500.00 Then you have to send your old cams back to silverbullet

How hard was the installcould a back yard dummy with some tools do it. Robert.

It all started when I went to the SEMA show in Las Vegas. If your not familuar with this show, it is for the manufactures of aftermarket products for on and off road vehicles. First I bought a winch. Actually 3 of them. A 12,000# winch wilth synthetic rope for my truck, a 4800# one with steel cable for my Trooper which I will lengthen the drum on so it will hold about 125 feet of synthetic rope while fitting it so it can be used on the front or back as Joyner originally intended for their winches. I also bought a 9500# winch with synthetic rope which I may sell. These are all rated at single line pull. Then while at the show I bought a pair of carbon fibre racing seats. These seats sit far better while supporting and holding you in better. They sit a lot lower so I can now lower my top without giving up all the head room. I'm also going to go with power seats as I can do this easier (just happen to have the drives) and still keep things low and I'll still be 10 pounds lighter per seat. In the mean time I have wanted to go to a glass windsheild. Tried 3 lexan ones and wasn't satified with any of them. The static charge they develope just draws too much dust. I wanted a curved windsheild like one of my designs in lexan. Started to look in auto junk yards at front and rear auto windows. Most everything is too big and pretty much all rear windows have heat wires across them. Got lucky and found a rear window from a 1972 Maverick, just right and no heat wires. Currently I'm putting the seats in which will dictate how low I can go with the roof. The roof heigth will dictate the slope of the windsheild which in turn will dictate the shape of the front portion of the roll bars. I bought some foam pipe insulation from Home Depot to use to mock up various design thoughts for the roll cage. Once decided upon, I'm going to build them using .095" by 1-3/4" DOM tubing alloy 1026. I'm leaning towards a fast back design but time will tell. Because I'm going to have to get into the front fenders, I'm going to extend them forward, tappering them off to no width at the frontl This should eliminate the occasional blow back of sand I get from the front tires.

The timing for this project is working out just perfect as I just had surgury on my right foot for flat feet problems. This will take 6 weeks to heal and then I have to do the other foot. This gives me time during which I really can't ride in anyway. I'll be a bit slow but this project is going to take a lot of time just sitting there and looking at things. Besides as some of you already know, when I'm in my shop, no matter what I'm working on, I'm in Hog Heaven. The final dyno work will have to wait, besides, I'm going to change the pully on my supercharger to spin it a bit faster make up for my lower compression. The compression ended up too low from lowering it before adding the aftercooler which effectively lowers compression.

Lenny

Lenny I made mud gaurds from a high impact plastic which I got at SSD plastics, look on their site they work great and are very durable. I had the same problem with dust on my windshield but I was able to solve it with just some good car wax which also gets rid of the smoke look you can get from cleaning it. I just apply a couple of coats a few times a year and have much less dust. My windshield is complete except the top four inches which I cut off so I could keep a good air flow which helps keep the cab pressure the same to prevent a vacum which will draw the dust into the cab. Im out all winter so if it is raining or snowing I made a squirt for the top of the wind shield which is attached to the inside of the roof and snaps up out of the way. When it is bad weather I can unsnap the squirt from the roof and snap it to the top of the winshield to close off the upper four inches of the windshield. When its raing or snowing the dust isn't a problem with the squirt down.

Silverbullet

We have all the brackets and pullys done.We just recived 5 superchargers now working on hoses and injectors.Getting close get ready almost done some testing and we will start selling them.

Thanks

Rick

Rick what is the cost for the complete kit.Robert.

I found swing arms and bought pair from silver bullet motor sport it was much much cheaper than I thought and stock not the chromoly set but its the newest version though. I also ordered a higher cfm fan while at it because my engine over heat when I go 55-65 mph for over few miles because I drive on gravel roads to my family houses and its about 10 miles or more on backroads because Iowa doesn't recognize trooper as street legal oh well.

One more question do any of you have oil pressure gauge all good st first start up then after engine get warm u drive around and then stop and idle engine the oil light come on and gauge show almost no oil pressure I been wondering about that anyone have that happen to you too?

I also have the same issue with over heating at high speeds, I installed the bigger fan from Silver Bullet it helped. After my machine gets warm say 200 or higher my oil light comes on and my gauge shows no pressure. I was told it is due to the thinner synthetic oil Im running so I added some Lucas oil stabilizer also take a look at Microlon oil treatment at Microlon.com. Good stuff, I run it in all of my vehicles. Robert.

Questions from any Trooper Turbo Owners:

Where did you purchase your turbo?

Have you had any issues?

Do you have an intercooler?

At what RPM do you feel it spool up?

How does it run up hills? Do you need to down shift still?

Do you feel there would be an advantage of a supercharger over a turbo?

Thanks for the feedback.

I purchased my Turbo from Scott also but it was installed by a Joyner Teck here in Colorado. The Turbo has never run well, I have an issue with the engine getting hot if I run the machine 45 mph or more for a few miles. i put a Boost Controller on it which helped some and then I adjusted the waste gate so it wouldn't boost more then 10 lbs. I also have a Fuel controller from Silver Bullet. I couldn't get it to work so I called the manufacture EJK. Matt at EJK told me the standard fuel controller will not work with a Turbo but he can remapp it for a Turbo which I had him do.. I have contemplated several times on removing the Turbo but after talking with Scott at Unleashed we will try to get it tuned. I think the Turbo is a good upgrade if Scott was to install it and tune it, I live out of state so I had a teck install it is supposed to know what he was doing, guess he didn't. I am not running an inter-cooler but I will.The Turbo was installed when I had 210 miles on the machine, I now have 3000 and it still isn't working right. The machine runs great and the power is impressive in 2nd and 3rd gears when Im needing it but when I hit 4th and 5th gears to run down the road it will slowly heat up and lose power. Robert.

Have you tried setting the fuel pressure up? Maybe try another 5-10 pounds. If that helps, turn it up farther and farther to try and get further improvement. You should also have the air port on the fuel regulator hooked up to the intake manifold. There is a guy in Cottonwood AZ that made turbos for the Troooper. Can't remember his company name. He would run fuel pressure up to 130-140 pounds with his turbos in order to get enough fuel. I run a supercharger and rather then to run dangerous high pressures, I chose to go to larger injectors. Last thing I want is a fuel leak with 140 pounds of pressure behind it to atomize the fuel for a great fire. I first went to 22 pound injectors then moved up to 26 pound. I think stock is about 14-16. Never could find out. Your computer may be giving it all the fuel it can get its hands on and if the fuel pressure won't push the volumn of fuel or the injectors are just too small, it runs lean. If your running lean, it will heat up. Sounds like you may need more fuel. I have the 22 pound injectors if your interested. They were not quite enough for my supercharger but may be for the turbo. I think I paid about $35 each for them. I'll sell them for $80 plus $5 to ship them but first try the higher fuel pressure as that will give you a hint. Then again it could be something all together different. LOL

Lenny

I have two fuel pumps, one is a supply pump and the other is a pressure pump to get enough pressure. I will get the injectors from you and try that. Give me a call, 970-985-9921 so we can do this, the sooner you can the better. The port on the regulator is hooked up like you suggested so maybe the injectors will work. I left a message for Scott to call. Thanks Robert.

not that i am aware of.I thought i had heard joyner had a special scanner but maybe someone else can chime in that knows for sure.No charge for that info...

Well I checked fuel pressure, did a block check in case I had a bad head gasket,still can't fix it. Talked with Matt at EJK who told me the fuel controller wouldn't work with the Turbo, not the right MAP. I don't know if the Turbo is the problem but once I get into fourth or fifth gear and try to run at forty mph or more the machine heats up and loses power with or without boost pressure. Any ideas would be great. Robert.

I think it was around $450.00,not real sure because i bought it along with some other parts in one lump sum from an add on craigslist.

P.S. All you can afford plus 100%.Same as the IRS expects...(LOL)

Thanks. Do you know if a Mechanic shop can plug in a scanner and possibly read any problems.

P.S. Wire transfer is in the works, I made it to Ricksb A.K.A. Bill gates correct.

When i get the check in the mail i will tell you(lol).I changed alot of things,fuel filter,checked all conections,pulled fuel tank twice and cleaned out,plugs,an a few more things but ended up changing the ECU and it hasnt happened since.It was only intermittant.

I also have tried most everything you did. What was the cost of the new ECU and where did you get it.

P.S what do I owe you for this classified info?

Good luck and you goota make her happy.Wouldnt that be nice if that was all you had to do make a woman happy..Work on the trooper,what a great thought.(lol)

Rick I am having a power loss problem and I saw a post in April of 2010 where you and gates98 were having the same issue. What did you find was the problem, I can't get it solved. Help, I'll pay you money. Robert.

I made hard top and back panel, installed 3/4 wind shield with skirt which rolls down and snaps to the wind shield for cold or bad weather, made half doors,made roll up fabric half doors with plastic windows for bad weather, painted bottom inch of roof mounted lights to stop them from washing out the wind shield and hood for better viability, installed mud flares, made cover for storage box in dash, installed snorkel and turbo, moved radiator back two inches and made shrouds around radiator to funnel more air into radiator, sealed every seam, crack and rattle I could find, added fuel controller which still won't work with turbo, made steering box upgrade and installed two more grease zerts, upgraded rear diff, made taunoue cover for bed, installed plastic skirting around the inside of the bed to keep stuff in, made heat shield over the turbo, removed fuel tank and had a bigger one made which didn't leak and then made better venting system with a filter, made rubber bushings for heim joints and then made wrap around boots for the joints to keep out debris, made a cover for the area behind the seats to keep out dust and noise, installed receptacle for plug in chargers or spot light.

I want to add power steering unit, and hinge the hood so I can have more storage for gear, up grade shocks. Robert.

if you call the company that made it ask for matt he can set it up to work with air line to it so it will richen wen boost is on. mine is set up that way. the person that sold it to you should have tould you it whon't work with out doing that. thanks. dedub. matts #406-388-2377.

Thanks I will do that, I would like to use it. Robert.

I'm in And what lenny said

I would buy one right now if its a complete unit. Robert

Went for a ride today and it was sure pretty, lots of greenery, flowers, some deer, cool, high, drove in some snow.

Actually, American Fork Canyon would make a good place for a Jamboree, there are enough trails to keep everyone busy for at least 3 day and some sincere tough stuff for those who want and some spectacular scenery for every one, it's all green scenery so maybe a few desert lovers won't be intrigued. There are golf courses near by that you drive your Trooper to. Fishing.

First of several, also have the gpx file if you want it, PM with your email address.

Great pic's nice country. We should plan a ride sometime, could show you some country aroung here. Robert

With the tapered roller bearings in your rear, you should be able to forget that problem for ever. Speaking of slop noises coming from the rear, I working on a way to tighten the cv hubs joint with the diff output shafts. If what I'm doing works, there wil not be any play in the joint. I now have all the clunking and rattle noises out of my front, except for a bit coming from the loose cv hubs, thanks to upgrading the heims joints with heavier and sealed heims joints that I can grease. I'll post what I did when I get a chance.

Lenny

Lenny where did you get the heims joint upgrades, I would like to get rid of the noise in mine. Robert.

If anyone has any parts for sell Please list here by REPLY.

I would like to see this RZR forum get moving a bit.Its worth a shot.

I have four new ITP rims for the RZR, Black and Chrome for sale, make offer.