Quantcast
Jump to content

Another UT400 shift problem


Recommended Posts

I've searched the forum but don't think I found a solution.

I just bought a used 2022 UT 400 with only 31 miles on it. Often I have to rev the motor just a little to get it to shift into forward or reverse. The original owner told me about this and said it needed the cable adjustment that you so often read about. It also jumped out of gear a few times and did grind a little but not very often and only under heavy load like going up a steep dirt road. After reading lots of posts I figured it must be the short shifter throw so I did the shifter extension modification. It didn't help at all. I thought, should I increase the idle speed? The tach reads about 1600 rpm at idle but it doesn't sound that fast to me. It doesn't seem like cable adjustment because it clicks right in gear with just a few more revs. Any ideas?

Thanks for any wisdom.

 

Colemanshifter.thumb.jpg.17c09c313ad78a075340f029da64fd0c.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...
Dan_Lockwood Contributor

Sorry you're having your shift issue, especially on such a low mileage one.

My fix you showed in the picture above, did "fix" my issue.  But as someone else said just recently, he had to totally tear down the engine/transmission and replace some parts.  I'm guessing that you don't have worn out parts, but maybe a bent part inside the shift area.

Even with the additional length to the stroke of the cable, as shown above, mine still on occasion has to be nudged into gear with a tap on the throttle to get things moving inside in the shifter/gears to align.  But in general, I've had no further popping out of gear as I had before I lengthened the shifter lever.

Maybe you have "some" warranty available as you have such a low hour/mile UT400.  Don't know if warranty is transferable from owner to owner though.

Good luck with your problem.

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply Dan. It's just one of those nagging things that bug you, ya know? It's not supposed to be like that, (I don't think).

It certainly is still very useable so for now I'll just use it as is. (It doesn't bother me enough to start tearing into it).

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
On 5/12/2023 at 9:29 AM, Dreadnought said:

Thanks for the reply Dan. It's just one of those nagging things that bug you, ya know? It's not supposed to be like that, (I don't think).

It certainly is still very useable so for now I'll just use it as is. (It doesn't bother me enough to start tearing into it).

 

Just tossing this out there ... could the shifter cable be stretched or defective rendering too long? Maybe see of there s a way to get the correct length and double check it with yours. Just my thoughts ...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply.

My thought would be that the cable is intact.  BUT... if it were to have "slipped", it would be loose at either end of the shift stroke.  The "shift problem" is usually quite consistent in feel and position of the cable ends.

When I had my cable off under the bonnet, I did a push/pull test and the cable "seemed" tight without end play etc.  Having the extra throw from the modified shifter lever is not going to hurt anything and in most cases will probably fix the shifter popping out of gear or going not all the way into gear.

Just my $0.02 worth of info.

Dan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 2021 and when I first got it, you had to really push up on the shifter to get forward to engage, plus it would occasionally pop out of gear when slowing down with your foot off the gas pedal. Reverse was a little easier going into gear, but would also pop out of gear.

Today I adjusted the cable according to Coleman and things got better, but still not great. I made some additional adjustments on the cable once everything was back together and as of now, reverse works good, but on occasion, forward will start slipping out and starts to grind until I push the lever back up.

I'll have to make some slight adjustments a little at a time from here and see if it helps before installing any mods. I just don't want to ruin the drive train if the gears keep clicking, especially if I'm going up hill with any pressure on the system. It doesn't seem to actually pop out of gear, but starts to grind likes it's slipping out.

I'll update once I get to do some more adjustments.

UPDATE: Played around for a couple days adjusting and fine tuning the adjustments. Got it to a point that it worked good for a couple hours, then parked it and took it out again and - BAM - started popping out in F gear again. Makes no sense, but now it's time to apply the mod ... we shall see.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're robbing Peter to pay Paul with the adjustments.

You CANNOT adjust more throw into the cable.  All you can do is give more F, or more R.  You cannot get both with a cable adjustment.

Someone actually cut the slot for the shift lever longer and then modified the detents and that seemed to help him, but the downright simplest solution is to remove the lever assembly and have it lengthen 3/4".

And yes, every time it jumps out of gear, the very corners of the gear dogs are rounding off just a bit at a time.  Before too long, the gears will be worn enough that they will need to be replaced.  A fix sooner than later, is the key here.

Good luck, Dan

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

34 minutes ago, Dan_Lockwood said:

You're robbing Peter to pay Paul with the adjustments.

You CANNOT adjust more throw into the cable.  All you can do is give more F, or more R.  You cannot get both with a cable adjustment.

Someone actually cut the slot for the shift lever longer and then modified the detents and that seemed to help him, but the downright simplest solution is to remove the lever assembly and have it lengthen 3/4".

And yes, every time it jumps out of gear, the very corners of the gear dogs are rounding off just a bit at a time.  Before too long, the gears will be worn enough that they will need to be replaced.  A fix sooner than later, is the key here.

Good luck, Dan

Yes, I agree. I'm just hoping the original owner that put the first 23 miles on it didn't do much damage. I'm still ticked I was told by Tractor Supply that this unit was new when I bought it. I only wish I knew how to work the dash to check the hours/miles properly, but I did get it at a good price, even for a used UTV. Thanks again for recommendations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By KMart
      I have a Massimo 400 Buck that overheats and the antifreeze blows out of the motor everywhere! I don’t have to be doing anything but just driving through the field.  It only has 26 miles on it.  I don’t think the fan is turning to cool the motor.  Any ideas how to fix this?
    • By Michael Wood
      I have a 2018 Massimo Buck 400 with 278 miles. 
      Having issues with my brakes. Took the buggy hunting and when I let my foot off the gas pedal it pulls without pressing on the brake. I looked and the pads on all 4 wheels are all toast. The E-Brake hasn’t been on since I have had it. I am guessing it may be a master cylinder issue because all 4 pads are gone. They all seem to have worn evenly that’s why I think the master cylinder. Just got the machine used from a older couple and they said it sat for some time in there pole barn. Possibly the brake lines? Calipers? I took one brake apart and when I depressed the caliper it didn’t stay. Any help is muck appreciated. 
    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Friends, 
      2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV  Joint rebuild kits are comming 
      1.  S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
      2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front 
      3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
      4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left 
      5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right 
      6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
      7.  14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
      8. 15803  ---  650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
      Attached are the part photos for reference. 
      Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July. 
      Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece;  CV Joint kit (without grease): USD110  send to door. 
      There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.  
      Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount, 
      Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
      Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount, 
      Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount. 
      Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big  and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement. 
      Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) .  Payment commission paid by the buyer. 
      Interested parties, please contact [email protected]
      Thanks
      Good Luck
      Casey / Leaf Asia
      July-07-2022
       
       
       














    • By Pilot1996
      When researching the Tracker, I was interested in the 800SX LE. The original sales literature indicated that the LE came with 27x9x14 and 27x11x14 tires. When I went to pick up my Tracker, it had 26” tires on it. I called Tracker before paying for the Tracker and was told they had supply issues and could not get 27” tires. I’m curious to know if anyone has taken delivery of an LE with 27” tires in stalled? I just recently installed 27” tires and am happy with the added ground clearance and beefy look the machine has taken on!
×
×
  • Create New...