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By rdc
Hope I posted this in the right place. Looking for the left side shaft carrier where the rear bearings go for an 1100cc sand viper, I understand an 800 cc carrier will also work. I need the old style two bearing with the spacer in the middle, the new style with just the one wide bearing wont work. If anybody has one I'll buy it right away. my email is [email protected]
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By paul allen
right front axle cv joint boot keeps getting torn up from the inside out....the stock one was damaged from a stick...i have replaced the axle 4 times with aftermarket axles that fit fine..after 4-5 miles of riding even on grass.the outer boot get torn up from the inside out...all 4 brand new alxes...bearings are fine nothing bent everything fits just fine....nothing seems to be binding.....any thoughts?????
thanks...pa
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By gridlock
After three years, my Sector completely died. Something caused the hot wire under the seat from the charger to disintegrate, so the batteries weren't being charged. The batteries weren't charging 100% anymore, so decided to convert to lithium.
As most others have done, I went with 4-48v batteries in parallel, as I believe that will be plenty of amp-hours for my needs, but can always add more if needed. I went with LiTime wired CAN batteries and mounted their digital gauge on the dash above the current one, which fit perfectly. I didn't think the existing battery brackets worked well for the new batteries, so made my own out of aluminum L rails, which makes it much more secure (and saves a few more ounces :)). Since I wired them in a 'balanced' configuration, I had to make all new cables from 0/1 gauge wire and 8mm posts. I updated the DeltaQ charger to profile 233. Cleaned everything up (I must have vacuumed 20 pounds of dirt!), put it all together and... wham!
So far, it definitely is better than with the original AGM batteries. Sustains speed better going up hills, and seems to have plenty of reserve current. The difference in weight with 4 LiPo vs 8 AGM batteries surely doesn't hurt!
Thanks to everyone on this forum, but special shoutout to GNFO who was a big help.
A few questions:
In the 'any tips' thread, EVSupport mentioned reprogramming the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the lithium cells, but I didn't see any more info about that or how to do that. Is there any more info about that?
Have folks replaced the onboard 12v battery, and if so, with lithium? I'm not sure why there is a 12v battery; why didn't they just step down the current of the 48v system to provide power to accessories?
Is there a recommendation as far as charging with the lithium conversion? As far as I understand, it is better to let lithium batteries discharge somewhat (but not completely) than keep them charging all the time. What do you think?
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By Stubbsmobile
Hey yall,
Helping a friend out. he purchased a 2020 massimo buck 400 utv. has about 100 hours on it. after starting the engine, shifter in low, it does fine. when shifted to high gear, most of the time it acts like its not in gear completely, and it pops out and grinds bad. when you can get it in high gear, it acts like something is binding and it wont hardley roll before it jumps out of gear and makes that grinding noise. almost like trying to dr4ive a standard transmission car and start off in 3rd or 4th gear.
I have been on this site for several hours now, and totally understand the overall feeling about massimo utv. I can only imagine trying to find transmission parts when other members cant even find a fuel filter, lol.
A new transmission is (part#47516) $1159.99 plus tax and freight.
anyone have any other ideas or suggestions on what is causing the noise in high gear and not wanting to move?
Thanks ,
Chris
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