Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

You have to check out the all new three piece alum. Spun wheel the SECTOR by DWT www.dwtracing.com

It's the answer to everyones questions

Available in stock offset

Light weight

Bead lock or non bead lock

Many offsets available

Replaceable parts

Heat treated 6061 .190 so it's very strong

Made in the USA

Easy tire mounting

It's a must see and will be showed at the sand show 09/17---09/19 come by the DWT booth

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Cliffampranch
      Hi All,
      I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026).  That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range.  A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home.  The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed.  I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
      Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance.  At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed.  Any ideas?
      Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully.  After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT!  So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature.  Very annoying.  Are there any adjustments to be had?
      And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
      Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint.  This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.).  This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience.  Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
      I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
    • By Fmaxiron
      Hit a rock last weekend and trashed my front A-arm and axle on my Outlander. I’ve been looking around for reliable sources for replacement components. A lot of listings online look a bit hit or miss, so I’m trying to figure out what’s actually worth trusting.
      Has anyone here had good luck with dealers or sites where you can buy genuine Can-Am spare parts online without worrying about quality issues or fake OEM stuff? I’d rather pay a bit more and get the right fit than deal with problems later.
      Any recommendations appreciated.
    • By HighSon
      Haven't posted in a while since solving the excessive cabin noise issue, so I thought I would share a few upgrades to my Sector... Realize that this is driven daily on the street, so some of the mods are to make it more streetworthy.

      Locking gas door.

      Rear view mirror.

      Modified windshield for better airflow in cabin.

      Lowered and modified headrest bar for improved rear view.  Tailgate protector.

      Folding armrests.

      Overhead utility rack.  Keeps the interior cooler and dryer, too!

      Folding rear seats.

      Dust cover and seat protector.
      If anyone wants links to the rear view mirror, seats, or arrests, let me know and I will post.  But know that everything requires some level of fabrication.  The utility rack was all custom built.  Cheers!
×
×
  • Create New...