Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2016 Cub Cadet 750 Challenger Crew. My in tank fuel pump is inoperative. Can I put in an external inline electric fuel pump to replace the intank one? The inline ones are about $350. An inline electric one is about $25. Both are easy to replace just really expensive for the intank one. Any kind of inline external pump I should look at? What PSI is needed? Thanks for any help 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Topics

    • By Sammy
      Runs fine just putting around the yard. Get it out on the road and about a half miles it runs out of gas. Let it idle for a few minutes and it will run for another half mile and do it again. Replaced both fuel pumps and filter. Does anyone know if I can get rid of the factory fuel pump?
    • By OBL
      program will open in old Bud program only/ but will not go in BUDS 2 to let use program ECU problem working on has new engine/ new fuel pump/ injectors/ lines/ sensors/ crank sensor maps/ and new throttle body and injectors. machine starts runs a minute dies/ on 3 rd  try says key not recognized /we put other key in and same thing happens/wait 10 minutes, you can go again/ is there a back door in the program/ also might mention unplug temp sensor and map sensor , it will run a few minutes longer / then die again.
    • By Cliffampranch
      Hi All,
      I have a 14 mile round trip on level roads to reach the property where I work with my 2025 Amp Crew Ranch (purchased, April 2026).  That 14 mile round trip uses 60% of the battery as shown on the gage for a calculated range of 23.3 miles versus an advertised “up to 50 miles” range.  A mile or two working on the property gets me a flashing gage and warning beeping by the time I get home.  The dealer was good to work with and even with a new battery (yesterday) the results were about the same, although there seemed to be more power and a higher top speed.  I own a Mach-e Mustang so I am familiar with how various conditions affect range, but less than 50% of advertised range just seems like there has to be something out of whack.
      Now I’m wondering if there is a controller and/or software issue affecting the range and performance.  At various points the Amp seems to lose power for no reason and then has trouble maintaining speed.  Any ideas?
      Also, twice now, the brakes seem to have not released fully.  After noticing reduced speed, I stopped and check the rotors and wheel…..HOT!  So, now every time I feel less power, I stopped to cycle the brakes and check the temperature.  Very annoying.  Are there any adjustments to be had?
      And yes, as noted in another post, sometimes the switching from forward to reverse or high to low speed feels sluggish or balky.
      Lastly, while an electric vehicle powertrain is quiet, my Amp was horrible from a road noise and vibration standpoint.  This was easily fixed by locating panels vibrating on other panels or the frame (even the cup holders were vibrating) and installing felt adhesive pads at the contact points (seat to frame, windshield to frame, fenders to frame, etc.).  This is a $10 and 1/2 hour fix that makes a significant improvement in the driver/passenger experience.  Tire noise, yes, but that’s because of the knobby tread.
      I’m trying hard to like my Amp and would appreciate any tips, advice or solutions.
    • By Jeff freeman
      I have a Coleman 550.  Was having problems to start with where it would start and then shut off after a couple tries. It would take off and be good. It then got to a point where it would not start at all. I replaced the fuel injection twice the second time I replaced it I noticed a mouse or something had chewed one of the wires that connect the electrical to the fuel injector. . So two-part question first does anybody have a part number for that wire harness?  Second, any other ideas after I fix the wire harness permanently on what could keep it from starting I have gas flow up to the fuel injector.


    • By AaronD1982
      Onto the next problem, everything has been replaced in the charging system except the Flywheel Rotor, I have it torn apart all the way down to said rotor, but it is suggested that a specific puller is required, and a compatible rotor seems virtually impossible to find.  I can find many like it, but this one is mine scenario for those that get the reference.  For all I know I have the last Massimo Buck 400S on the planet and will never find another part again, but who knows.  Any ideas, help or otherwise that anyone might have would be greatly appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...