2015 Vision X ULTRA4 vs. SRRS East/West Shootout Presented by Sway-A-Way
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By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
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By KMP
We just bought our 1st side-by-side and wanted to get tips on maintenance items we should address immediately for our 2015 Arctic Cat Wildcat Sport 700 XT. We are truly beginners and welcome any and all suggestions. Thank you, we appreciate your help!
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By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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By Razorair
New to this site I just got this 2014 Coleman UTV 700 High Temp Light on from the start cold I haven't really ohm checked the sensors although they are all new but I have done lots of work on the engine I've replace the head gasket, wet clutch rebuilt the primary clutch and cleaned the secondary clutch with a new belt plus a bunch of other stuff I just can't figure out this high temp light that is on at start and has never been off. I have bled the air multiple times. I also wired a switch for the fan to run it most of the time due to others that have suggested this. It is running good the radiator is getting warm but really haven't ran it enough to make sure it's not getting too hot but I just want the light to work as it's suppose to. I would really like to install a true temp gauge if anybody could help with doing that.
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