Hisun e1 2021 cuts power after a few yards

[Jamesshoop1]

This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up  and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.

[GNFO]

Don't really know what could cause it, but perhaps try checking the fuses?  Seems unlikely, but perhaps there is a partial failure mode where it is warming up just enough to gap.

[LAMA]

I have a new E1 and it happened to me recently when I drove it after about a month of parking. We attributed it to the longer parking (for example, a drop in the 12V battery, or an unbalanced voltage of the 8 main batteries...). It was also related to the load, because with the load the shutdown occurred earlier, after about 3 seconds. Each time I just had to turn everything off and I could continue driving for a while. Since then, it hasn't happened to me again. However, when I turned it off, I saw an error message that disappeared after a very short time, but I didn't have time to read it. If you manage to read the error message, it will be progress...

[Jamesshoop1]

I had tested the 12 volt battery with a multimeter and it was fine, 13.8 volts. However when I load tested it it dropped to 9, and when I removed the battery it was reading 6 volts. So I’m pretty sure this was the issue. I have a lifepo 12 volt on the way I’ll report back if that fixes it

[Jamesshoop1]

Well that didn’t work. New 12 volt and it still cuts power every 5 seconds on cue. Checked the brake switch, solenoid, charger interlock, speed controller… stumped 🤔 

[LAMA]

Try reading the error that briefly appeared when I turned it off.
Have you measured the voltage of the main battery and the differences between them?

[Jamesshoop1]

I never get an error, indicator light on sevcon stays solid green as well. Today I cleaned all electrical connections and put in new main battery cables. I’m about to give up and take it in to the dealer.

i only have one battery, its voltage it 53 right now. Maybe it’s too high for a controller programmed for lead acid? I’m going to let the charge drop way down and see

[LAMA]

What battery do you have? Can you please specify, or provide a link to the seller's website? Thank you.

[Jamesshoop1]

This one: https://a.co/d/fabHdcb

i realized its undersized on ah, but it doesn’t make sense that it would kill drive with the back wheels jacked up pulling very low amps 

[GNFO]

Again, just speculating, but given that this has happened under both the original batteries and the replacement LiTime battery, unfortunately I'm thinking there's a problem with the Sevcon motor controller. Despite the max 120s output being only 200A, there are others here who have operated just fine under the same limitations. If you can also verify from the monitoring screen that there are no battery BMS errors when it cuts off, that might also suggest a problem with the Sevcon. Maybe the screen can also show what the output parameters are right before shutdown (V, amps)?

[LAMA]

Your 100Ah battery is weak. It can handle a short-term load of 2C (200A) - that's not enough. I think the BMS is disconnecting the battery.

[GNFO]

34 minutes ago, LAMA said:

Your 100Ah battery is weak. It can handle a short-term load of 2C (200A) - that's not enough. I think the BMS is disconnecting the battery.

While I agree the battery doesn't make the best use of the motor, his battery model is specified for 200A for 120 seconds, 360A for 10 seconds, and 600A for 1 second.  It shouldn't be cutting off because of the BMS at 5 seconds under a light load unless there is either a problem with the BMS or the problem is external (e.g. the Sevcon).  Especially if it was happening before he did the lithium conversion, too.  At any rate, that is why I was asking if the additional external monitor that comes with the battery flagged any BMS errors.

[Jamesshoop1]

Yeah the output really varies when it kills, it can be at a crawl pulling just a few amps or open throttle still kills exactly 5 seconds. Also, I put a multimeter on the sevcon side of the solenoid, and after the motor kills I’m still getting 52v going into the sevcon so I really don’t think it’s battery related.

and no, no errors on the battery monitor 

anyway, I’m bringing it in to the dealer tomorrow morning, I’ll report back

[Jamesshoop1]

Well, now it’s not doing it. I left the dash on and let the battery go down to 52.3 volts down from like 53.9 last night. Maybe it is a high voltage shutoff? Does anyone know what max voltage the sevcon will accept?

[GNFO]

14 minutes ago, Jamesshoop1 said:

Well, now it’s not doing it. I left the dash on and let the battery go down to 52.3 volts down from like 53.9 last night. Maybe it is a high voltage shutoff? Does anyone know what max voltage the sevcon will accept?

As currently configured I'm not sure.  I know that @EVSupport actually reprograms the Sevcon as part of his professional upgrades and actually puts higher voltage through the system (~60V?). I don't know if part of that reprogramming touches on maximum allowable voltage, but maybe he can shed some light on how the Sevcon is originally configured and how it might act.

[GNFO]

59 minutes ago, GNFO said:

As currently configured I'm not sure.  I know that @EVSupport actually reprograms the Sevcon as part of his professional upgrades and actually puts higher voltage through the system (~60V?). I don't know if part of that reprogramming touches on maximum allowable voltage, but maybe he can shed some light on how the Sevcon is originally configured and how it might act.

Just as an FYI, my "48V" batteries are advertised as putting out 51.2V just like the advertisement says for yours.  The inverter I have connected to the pack says that it is actually putting out 52.1V.  I think I've seen others with higher voltage; one of the pictures shows 54.1V on their readout.

[EVSupport]

It depends on how the sevcon is set up. The absolute max voltage is 69v We run max of 65V in the settings to allow for slight over voltage when charged and doing regen, we then Start to cut back from 50V and completely shut down after a number of steps at I think 44v I dont currently have a copy of the std voltages. Just what I change them to. If I recall the max setting is mid 50s I may have a Ranger sevcon that I cxan look at , but I gave away my faulty Hisun ones to a chjap who was going to have a go at repairing the mosfets . But Ranger voltages are similar

[GNFO]

21 hours ago, EVSupport said:

It depends on how the sevcon is set up. The absolute max voltage is 69v We run max of 65V in the settings to allow for slight over voltage when charged and doing regen, we then Start to cut back from 50V and completely shut down after a number of steps at I think 44v I dont currently have a copy of the std voltages. Just what I change them to. If I recall the max setting is mid 50s I may have a Ranger sevcon that I cxan look at , but I gave away my faulty Hisun ones to a chjap who was going to have a go at repairing the mosfets . But Ranger voltages are similar

Thanks. Have you ever come across the problem Jamesshoop1 is describing? Considering it started even under the old Discover batteries, it doesn't seem like his new battery could solely account for the problem, although it may be contributing.  Which is also intermittent again apparently.

[Jamesshoop1]

Well, it started doing it again today with the voltage at 52ish so I guess I can rule that over voltage protection out.

i did notice, while it was driving good this morning, I took it out on the road and opened it up in high gear and got a massive voltage drop on the litime display down to 46v which seems unhealthy for a lithium ion battery. It killed power to the motor right after that and now it’s back in the loop of killing drive every 5 seconds regardless of power draw.

i went ahead and ordered another battery, that will bring me up to 200ah

[EVSupport]

Possible issue is the switch on the brake pedal. Not the greatest of parts. Bad pack connections, not simply tight screw/ nuts but lugs tight. Have seen issues of missing washers and screws botton, lugs loose.

 

[GNFO]

1 hour ago, EVSupport said:

Possible issue is the switch on the brake pedal. Not the greatest of parts. Bad pack connections, not simply tight screw/ nuts but lugs tight. Have seen issues of missing washers and screws botton, lugs loose.

 

He's checked all of that, and the consistent timing of the cutoff doesn't seem consistent with a marginal connection, especially when it happens with no vibration (I think he's lifted it and run with the wheels off the ground.)

[Jamesshoop1]

Well I don’t want to jinx it by saying it’s fixed, but I added a second 100ah battery and I haven’t had any problems this week. The voltage is much steadier note I don’t get big drops going uphill.

 Still, I don’t think it was a bms issue, as I was always getting power past the solenoid

[GNFO]

18 hours ago, Jamesshoop1 said:

Well I don’t want to jinx it by saying it’s fixed, but I added a second 100ah battery and I haven’t had any problems this week. The voltage is much steadier note I don’t get big drops going uphill.

 Still, I don’t think it was a bms issue, as I was always getting power past the solenoid

Good to hear. Wondering if those batteries don't quite meet their specs for immediate power demand, so the voltage drops when a demand is made.  Having two might be allowing you to compensate for that.  That's one of the reasons I tried to make sure my batteries could accommodate a continuous output at max amps rather than try and live in the time-constrained margins.  It's more expensive, but probably avoids some issues in the long run.