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We change the fuses (Also a lot of E1s dont actually have a fuse on the charger) on the Hisun and the Ranger for a maxi bladed fuse https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/143778366533 like these , not for high value fuses, but as they have large blades the connection is much better and the heat generated is virtually none. The ranger is the worst, they use the mini automotive fuses, The only issue is connecting them into your loom. So make the terminal to the contactor the longest leg of the fuse holder with an 8mm crimped terminal, and the other end ideally crimped to the original loom section. Any join should ideally have one or more layers of heat shrink sleeve.

We always assume the obvious. Glad you have found the problem.

If it is E013 There is no 3.E01 code, then first thing is to check all of the battery connections, These have m8 bolts but with 10mm, 13mm and 14mm heads . I have seen all on E1s most do seem to be 13mm heads but a lot of the latest have had the 10mm these are a horrible bolt, and appear to have been painted. I would change these for m8x 20mm stainless screws. Dont just try the cable to see if its loose, actually put a socket on and tighten them. Ideally you should use an insulated Ratchet and socket etc. But if you dont have that , at least lessen any shorting issues by using heat shrink sleeve on the socket and extension and tape up the ratchet. Shorting across batteries can make a real mess, and there is a good chance that you will hurt yourself trying to remove the sparking melting ratchet.

Not really a possibility. You may get a couple of MPG. The motor has only one bearing (like the Ranger ) and uses the gearbox input shaft as the front bearing . Upping the RPM by anything significant really does need a better bearing / front support and the field weakening mapping would need changing to get the Higher RPM. It also would have a lot lower power output at the Higher RPM. They really are what they are, and anything significant would take a lot of rework to achieve it.

The charger is at the front underneath the front compartment. On the drivers side is a power light and fault code display. The mains inlet is on the other end. You must have an adequate sized extension lead, (most are not) or the voltage drop causes the charger to not run. When plugged into the mains are you seeing any lights on the drivers side of the charger, is there a error or fault code being scrolled across the small screen. If you look under the seat you will see a cable with a white , black and green wire set. check these out, one will have the fuse attached to it. just follow the wires,check that fuse. If your mains plug is not a moulded one, check the connections inside. The key to not charging is to see the fault code.

4884 is a sequence fault. I e the fwd / reverse is selected. The brake could possibly be in that sequence as well but its unlikely. The fault could simply be a faulty fwd/ rev switch. The code is a Sevcon fault code (ie its not a hisun but generated by the Sevcon motor controller) The its cause is listed as "Any drive switch active at Power up" solution is "Deselect all drive switches"

The L M H is simply a switch that tells the Sevcon Motor controller, by connecting different sets of contacts on the controller what set of parameters to follow, ie low is lots of torque with lowest RPM H is lowest Torque and Highest RPM. The fault is likely to be a simple cable or switch fault, if neither M or H work then its suggesting a common issue so likely to be the common wire they work from as the common return wire. . I would consider this a warranty issue. and should be fairly straightforward to trace the fault, if the person doing the fault finding understands what they are doing. I would suggest you contact Hisun In Texas as the dealer has failed to sort the problem, so contacting them directly isnt unreasonable. They may refer it back to the dealer, but hopefully with some additional guidance for them to follow.

Any other leaks? Its got a load of gears thrashing about in the oil, so as it gets hot it will breathe. Has it recently been filled with oil? Do you have a leak on the driveshafts? If too much oil as it heats up and gets thrown around some will come out, if its too low and the oil is getting excessively hot and the air pressure builds as it gets hotter , you will get oil / vapour come out. You need to somehow find out where the filler plug is and check the oil level. The ranger has a sealed casing and just has one hole for a sensor on the side. I have never had to top up a ranger EV gearbox.

Its a transmission breather cap. No idea what level of oil you need, but these will always be slightly oily especially in hot weather and longer run times. I would be more concerned if there was no oil.

If its had the correct algorithm put in then the DeltaQ charger has a balancing phase. Although that overcharge can be a bit to aggressive as on the Rangers which also use Trojans, and many people suffer because the batteries gas a lot, that rusts out the base plates and chassis (I just replaced a section of rusted through chassis on a Ranger) You must also water the Trojans to repace the lost / evaporated water on a regular basis. If not then they really wont last long at all. Thats one reason why Hisun went for the Discover , as they dont need maintenance, which many people just dont do. On the deltaq charger there is a small rubber cover on the drivers side front, above that is a display. If you push the plastic cover above the display (Above as in going up from the ground, ) you will eventually feel a small clicking push switch. Dont push too hard just move about that area until you find it. Then while pushing the switch, plug in the mains, it will then show a P123 number. note that number and let go. Thats the algorithm thats in use. Post that on here. And dont leave it too long before charging as its easy to let them get too low, you (or someone else jumps in and thrashes it and hey presto you have badly flattened batteries. The rot sets in as soon as you start to over discharge and pull high currents, especially if the watering hasnt been done adequately. Juts work out what works for you ideally dont let it get below something like 50 to 60 % especially in the winter. In summer try and keep it out of the heat when charging that lessens gassing (its cooler to start with). Heavy discharge is not good for any Battery, deep discharge included. And especially when new. The Trojans are also a bit less Ah than the Discover, although they both express the Ah in different ways. The Trojan is around 15% less capacity. So again dont expect the range you once got.

What caused the charger fuse to blow? Where was your fuse located? The power to the sevcon is only applied when the ign is turned on, that brings the Sevcon live, (Applies pack voltage to pin 1) but does not fully go live until the main contactor is puled in (the clonk you hear)If you have it in fwd or reverse it will call a fault and beep at you . Hence why turn on is done in neutral, Saves you shooting off in a direction at turn on. So see if you get a fault when you turn it on in FWD and reverse. Are any fault codes shown on the dash, or the small blinking led on the Sevcon cover near the multiway connector towards the front of the sevcon under the drivers seat? The FWD reverse is simply two switches with a centre off, each completing a circuit to a different input line on the Sevcon. Has any cabling been damaged?.

The 48v sevcon controller can work out to about 68 volts, the DC to DC can go way above 90v. The inverter is the critical device, and I reprogram that to suit the battery profile and also cut back on voltage above 67v so that allows for some regen on a full battery, but doesnt cause it to cut out fully. The voltage given out to the main contactor is controlled by the sevcon. But we cant get the original "Fuel gauge" to read correctly so we simply add a new gauge for this. Its an advantage also having a DeltaQ IC1200 algorithm that works with the cell blocks (it does not actually take them to their absolute max voltage , so even better ) and the Sevcon voltages. With any EV, voltage is King, the heat given out by the power systems is important and that is a function of the square of the current so if 50amps load the square is 2500 if 60amps the value is 3600 so you can see the seemingly small change of 10v (or 20%) gives an increase of nearly 50% in that value. So with a constant load that means heat output is dramatically reduced by going to a higher voltage. Where this really helps is when the pack is going down in charge and the voltage does start to sink, and current goes up. Its not such an issue for us. But against all of that is the issue of higher voltage and getting into the realms of being considered as a HV install, and making sure that stuff is suitably insulated , fused, labled etc I couldnt comment on a persons specification of install, as they have obviously made an investment decision based on a lot of factors. I have just given some guidance to help people understand the issues involved, and for many with little experience of the issues its easy to go down the wrong route for what may seem like the right reasons (or a Youtube video) .

Just a few points to guide people on lithium cells. The original pack is not actually 2080ah, or rather it is but not in the correct way you express a pack ah . They have quoted that figure based on 8 x 260ah so its quoting 2080ah on a 6 volt battery. Thats not how the pack ah is worked out. The original is actually a 260ah pack at 48v . But with any lead you dont actually have access to all of that for storage purposes, as the voltage drops below a usable figure. If you took each battery down to 0v you may get the 260ah , but kill it in the process. Whats important with lead is having adequate ah to supply the discharge rate the motor/ control requires. Thats where Lithium have the edge. So with Lithium (any version) you can have a lower ah of the pack but you do need to ensure you have enough to easily deliver the high discharges needed. If you have a low ah, based on your run time needs, you may well then be seriously over stressing the packs to deliver the amps required under high load. Thats not good. On my UK Li Ion conversions we use a 60v set up (Uses OEM cell blocks from a UK vehicle maker) with a total of 180ah (6 x 30ah). 60v also reduces the current draw and heat under load, and these stupidly high quality cells can discharge at 175a (thats a pack max discharge of over 1000a) each cell block, so they are really very un stressed. That means they dont get hot, that means the cells dont swell, that means long life. If you use lower capacity or lower discharge rate cells then the life can be seriously shortened. Lifepo4 are good but tend to have lower discharge rates than the Li ion, but lifepo4 just melt rather than catch fire, but also do need to be clamped as they swell more under high discharge rates. Batteries have what is called a "C" rating which is a value relating to the rate of discharge and charge they can cope with, so a 100ah cell with a C rate of 1 can easily discharge at 100a, if its charge rate is a max of 0.2c then it can charge at 20amps. Cheaper cells can often discharge at perhaps 3c for short times, high quality (and different chemistry some lipo etc) can stretch to 10c. The li ion ones I use can discharge at over 5c. Aim for a constant pack discharge rate of 400a to cope with a decent load for more than a few seconds, and you will be OK. That means if you have a 90ah pack with a 3c constant discharge rate you will be damaging the pack from the start. If you are using old ex car battery cells (or second life packs) then you should not expect them to constantly deliver the same way as they could when new. They should be de rated. Based on discharge and longer life I would not install a pack under 150ah of any Lithium. If I did I would not expect a long and happy life. If thats OK then all is good. If you are likely to get hacked off when they fail after a couple of years usage, then it may be worth re thinking what your pack ah is to start with. Back to lead, a 12v lead starter battery can do perhaps 8C for a few seconds, then they start to get hot, then the plates buckle then they fail. No good for a traction battery but ok to start a gas engine. Lead traction are also not able to deliver really high long time discharge, which is why they go for a seemingly big pack in the first place, just to get a reasonable chance of being able to deliver performance under load, and have a reasonable life. Traction batteries can however be heavily discharged which a starter cant. Leisure can also do this but cant deliver the high currents so never use these as a traction replacement. I do reprogram the DeltaQ ic1200 (Delta Q did have a suitable algorithm for my needs) and this uses a feature of re programming the temp sensor input so it becomes a short to start option that is linked to my Pack Monitoring Unit (PMU) that talks to the OEM electronics on the cell blocks, so giving pack level safety on charge over voltage or temperature. That is really important. You also need to reprogram the Sevcon to reflect the new discharge curve of the Lithium cells you use. If you dont it will still be able to discharge the pack to a low voltage that is below what the Li cells can take. I hope some of the above is of help.

Really hard to work out what happened. My view would be that it was a loose connection, If it was a battery going up, it would have been caused by a gas explosion and at least one of the batteries would have made a fair noise when it went, but if it was a poor connection then heat could have built up, to the point where the plastics melted and caught . Hard to track it down now, but a quick check of whats left of the cables could show up where one was loose. Such a horrible event. There have been other comments on a FB page when a faulty / inconsistent vehicle turned out to be a poor connection on a battery terminal. Personally I would swap the horrid 10mm headed painted battery bolts for m8x 20 Stainless screws and washers with single springs. Worth regularly checking their tightness. Another alternative cause could be the 12v battery. I have found one that was totally shot. But its not apparent to the user as the DC to DC runs continuously even when the ign is turned off. In this case a duff 12v battery will simply get hot and over heat, when over heating the electrolyte boils off, when plates touch they can spark and ignite the hydrogen inside the battery. My suggestion to users is to get a multimeter go under the drivers seat, find the 12v battery and (behind the drivers legs) and check the voltage (negative is towards the centre positive towards the side panel). Note the voltage. Hit the big red button. That breaks the 48v circuit. The DC to DC will shut down. Leave it for 10 minutes. Re check the 12v battery. If its well above 12v it should be OK , if not then your battery may need topping up , or replacing. If below 12v then its a replacement, as its way under voltage, and probably has one cell dead.

All new steel and ally battery enclosures, all new battery / connection cabling, New loom for the Battery management / Vehicle interface/ charger, new small display, New algorithm on the Charger, re programe the Sevcon , New rear arch cover sections to reduce crud. New mains inlet and relay box in the front compartment. So not a lot , just takes me about 4 days start to finish with all the parts ready made and in stock. Some photos on my EV Support Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/EVSupportUK

The cable for the charger DC side is normally quite adequate. You will struggle to get larger in to the housing easily. Dont solder only crimp. If you cant crimp get someone who can. And you will need to ensure the negative side has the temp sensor connection. Im not connected to Hisun, but I do Hisun E1 Li Ion conversions in the UK. So see them on an almost constant basis.

Suggest you check all the cabling back to the main connections to the battery pack. They are under the central hoop under the seat look for the connector with the plastic block and two leads, thats one of the charge cables. The second lead is the temp sensor lead in that plastic block. But check all the battery connections. Also check under the cover of the Delta Q charger on the right (passenger side ) side are all the wire connections take off the cover (two torx screws) and then carefully check the tightness of the torx screws holding the two larger charge leads . Its easier to take the front wheel off than simply inserting your head between the wheel and the front arch.

Check the 12v battery and the connections to the DC to DC converter. Also the fuses. But most of all check each main traction battery connection , the big red button connections and the sevcon connections before and after the main contactor. Also check any connections on the back of the ign switch. Does rocking the key gently in the ign switch do it as well.

https://www.barrus.co.uk/divisions/vehicle/hisun/the-hisun-product-range/electric-utvs/sector-15kw-lithium-ion/

They do have the higher power / voltage li ion vehicle. But as far as I am aware the importers have no intention of offering a formal factory conversion, and none are being considered. Most of the conversions I have carried out have been through the Hisun dealers, having seen the prototype which was a very early UK import, and which has been loaned to a lot of existing owners. Its certainly engendering a degree of brand loyalty, as shown by the new one, which went to an existing owner of a li ion conversion. The change was so good for their usage, they bought another . So Hisun UK importers are seeing the benefits of a Li ion conversion in terms of ensuring sales. Virtually all of the Li ion conversions are going into heavily used vehicles, where the owners can see the financial advantage of going li ion. Im not sure I will ever get to the point of offering the current conversion as a self fit. Perhaps I should look at a redesign. The problem is access, Its not easy which means you have to build the two halves of the pack in separate stages, into the chassis.

I am doing a Li ion conversion on a brand new E1, all the others have been 2019 to 2020 vehicles. There are a lot of small detail changes. The dash now uses the std engine light to signify a fault, Not sure why but they do. The running gear seems the same, with overall a bit tidier placement of cables etc. But the main motor cable now have a braided shielded out covering that is all earthed to the neutral post on the Sevcon. It will be interesting to test in a day or so if this get rid of some of the EMI (Electro magnetic Interference) the sevcons put out (I have found this on Rangers and the E1s) . Some things I dont like are still there, like the small head m6 screws holding the belly pan on, and they have gone from plated screws holding the cable lugs onto the sevcon, to painted screws with small 10mm heads. I dont like this as this then relies purely on the face to face contact of the lug rather than both faces and the threads. I have never seen any EV (UTV or automobile) using this approach. There is a large variance in the placement of the chassis components ie the under battery support and out riggers are all over the place. This makes a lot of work making fixings align. But its a fact of life and one that just has to be dealt with. The Ranger has a very tight placement of parts in comparison. Overall It looks a bit neater and tidier in the build. The one feature I think they really ought to deal with is the awful access to the propshaft grease points. This just means none ever appear to get greased. .

To reduce the amount of crud that gets thrown up under the seats / battery area of the Rangers, I do some mods when doing my UK Li ion conversions. The big one is the complete change of the battery trays, these are built as part of the new battery casings and fill the floor up to the back of the seat panel. But the most annoying feature is the big gap between the side panels and the arch liners, so I add a fill strip and a top cap. You can fit a rubber flap over the join, but I find these are more prone to getting ripped off by twigs etc. These are made from a plastic thats as virtually as indestructible as polycarbonate , but easier to heat and form. And lastly I now fit a flat panel between the antiroll bar mounts and the upright. This all helps to reduce the muck getting into the battery area. I would recommend that once a year you drop the belly pan and clean out all the stuff that goes up through the pan holes. If you drive over grass a lot then lift the floor / tunnel panel and take the mess out. The holes act like a cheese grater and you can get a lot of seeds etc crammed in that space. Now looking at a top panel to cover between the cab back and the underside of the bed, but the set up will be different between the earlier and later vehicles.

Just get it made up. You really dont want it on a reel anyway, thats a temptation not to un reel it and thats a disaster. They will melt with a high continual load when still even partially coiled. Its easier for us with 230v and access to decent 16a outdoor covered sockets. If you have access to 230v(or whatever your split phase is) then use that as the charges will work on 120/ 240. Smaller cable size / better availability. This is whats ideal for us in Europe. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113729489250? They are covered, and hold the plug in as well. So much safer than the system you have in the states.

The problem isnt the outlet. On small cables you get a big voltage drop under load. On other DeltaQ chargers (as used on the Polaris Ranger EVs) they wont charge if the voltage drop is too big when the charger kicks in. So you need an adequate cable size to reduce the voltage drop. Its not so bad for us in the UK as we have 240v mains and so dont need such large cable. It will charge from a regular power outlet, just not with a very long extension lead that isnt large enough. What is an outdoor grounded 15volt outlet?

The cable is fairly long with a number of sharp curves in it. Leaving it tight on will cause stretch, and then its going to need adjustment. Its not the greatest, but just consider it as part of regular maintenance, along with greasing the suspension grease points . I guess people dont do that either. The E1 may be electric but you still need to do maintenance. It does help with longer term ownership. Greasing the suspension bushes is really important and almost never done. Greasing pushes out the dirt that acts like grinding paste. Regularly pressure wash the bushes/ arms. It will help. Dry conditions with dust and sand can be really bad, wash off the excess grease / dust, re grease and wipe away the excess. If you are really into maintenance, then strip wash and re grease all the suspension bushes annually. The propshaft has a number of grease points, and it may be easier to do this with the belly pan removed. If you catch the belly pan at the front edge. Dont leave this, I have had a couple with this and it then acts as a scoop , result even more crud inside. .