Quantcast
Jump to content

Honda 700XX Front Bumpers


utvman

Recommended Posts

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By johnpeter
      2021 Polaris RZR Pro XP Sport On Ebay
      https://www.ebay.com/itm/186327903747?

    • By Irons
      Hopefully this helps somebody because I couldn't find any info on this runaway condition.

      Drove 1/2 mile to the gas station and when I started up to leave the starter stuck on. Turn key off starter is still running~! Limp it home wondering what the heck to do, get it in the garage and pull the negative battery terminal to get it to stop. Whew, WTF?

      Calm down and start checking things, starter is hot of course but nothing is smoking and nothing smells burnt. Pull battery cover off and start checking wires from battery to relay and relay to the starter. OK good nothing is hot, nothing is crispy and nothing is melted. Probably smoked the starter though. If this had happened to my wife and I wasn't around the machine would have run until the battery died and probably melted down/burned.

      I'll get to the point to save you folks some time and trouble. Because this is a kymco machine you need 2 different Kawasaki parts to make this repair, and information is scarce to say the least. The switch and a sub harness to connect it to the machine's plug.

      Everything works now, but the starter sounds horrible so I'll be changing that too before spring.

      Good luck out there and hopefully this is just a freak occurrence, but if I were you I'd get rid of this kymco part and put the Kawasaki replacement in now.

      Switch, Magnetic is part number 27010-0767
      Sub Harness Start Relay is part number 26031-Y034
       
       

    • By Alex
      This is an interesting read. ADAS is main stream on cars these days. The technology looks to be headed towards UTVs and Off-Road Vehicles.
      Potential Motors and CFMOTO USA have announced a new partnership to integrate advanced driver-assist systems (ADAS) into recreational off-road vehicles for the first time.
      Sam Poirier, CEO and co-founder at Potential Motors, says the integration of its technology into CFMOTO’s vehicles will set new standards in the side-by-side segment. (Photo: Potential Motors Inc.) The partnership will first see Potential’s tech integrated into CFMOTO test vehicles. The companies will conduct extensive real-world testing at Potential’s purpose-built off-road proving ground in Fredericton, Canada, and CFMOTO facilities.
      Source: https://powersportsbusiness.com/top-stories/2023/12/19/cfmoto-and-potential-motors-announce-industry-first-adas-technology-for-ohvs/
    • By Xov
      Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro.  Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more.  There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model.  Hope this will help others as they research.
      Intended Use Cases
      Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property.  The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion.  Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus.  Experiences So Far
      Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing.  The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame.  I expect a little better QC.
      I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage.  It isn't quiet; it's silent.  I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller.  The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4.  Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent).  The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque.  It feels very powerful.  All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
      The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard.  Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more.  Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
      Power steering is nice, but vague.  Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input.  Plan early and plan often.
      In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart.  I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done.  After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th. 
      Until next time...


    • By res2fr
      I have an issue and I'm hoping that someone can help with a little Wisdom. I have a 2016 Massimo MSU500 UTV that blew a time chain while out riding. It has been torn down to replave the chain and Sprocket amount other things that will be renewed. The problem comes in with setting Top Dead Center on the motor. The Manuals all teel one to line up hash marks on the flywheel with a point on the side cover under what's referred to in several place as a manhole cover. Its a large headed cap/bolt that unscrews and allows you to view the edge of the flywheel. There are hash marks on the flywheel that your supposed to turn the crank until you get the proper alignment between a certain hash mark and a reference point on the Case. Problem is there is NO reference point on the case there. I also have another 2016 MSU500 and a 2014 Coleman 500. Not one of these machines have a reference mark of any kind in that location. (I have pictures if needed) 
        I know I can use the old pull the valve covers and rotate the crank and rely on getting the right point where Both Intake and Exhaust valves are closed at hopefully the correct point in the piston stroke. Is there any other reference point that could be used for this or is this the only thing left to use for finding TDC? Gotta Love documentation that doesn't match the equipment it's supposed to be for, any help would be greatly appreciated. Even if just to tell me that's about my only option. 
       
      Thanks to all who even take the time to read my rambling question.
      Robert
×
×
  • Create New...