This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).
Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.
Its maker has affectionately dubbed it Teslaris, for obvious reasons.
The Polaris RZR RS1 UTV has a one-liter, two-cylinder engine that from the factory has around 100 horsepower, making the 1,383-pound (627-kilogram) UTV very quick. But there’s always room for more power in one of these vehicles, and instead of fettling with its engine, one dune vehicle aficionado decided to swap in the rear drive motor out of a Tesla Model 3 / Model Y.
We don’t know how many of the battery modules the put in the vehicle, but it doesn’t appear to be much heavier than stock and it goes up sand dunes with remarkable ease. Depending on which version of Model 3 was the motor donor, the drive unit could have either 261 or 325 horsepower, as long as the battery pack can supply enough wattage and voltage.
Judging by how easily it flies up the steep sand dune, almost lifting the front wheels off the ground under harder acceleration, it’s safe to say it looks like a real hoot. The steep grade you see it tackling in the video uploaded by the electric UTV’s creator, Ron Cobbley, is located in the St. Anthony, Idaho sand dunes.
We found more videos on vehicle’s official Instagram account and aside from how interesting it is to see an electric powertrain in an application like this (and how it changes the vehicle), we also noticed that you really hear the tires on the sand more. Usually, this sound is drowned out by the engine.
The sound’s tone and pitch probably change with speed, giving the driver audible information to help him or her gauge their speed. You don’t really get this in a road-going EV driven on tarmac, which is why it’s trickier to drive an EV quickly - specifically because you have no way of knowing how fast you’re going just by ear.
2009 Hisun HS700 UTV ---- I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube.By Rick McGill
I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up.
Thanks in advance.
View File Cub Cadet UV series, Challenger 550 & 750
Found this manual as a free pdf downloaded, it's loaded with information.
My Windows Defender Scanned it and it's clean of anything you wouldn't want on your PC.
Submitter Travis Submitted 01/07/2022 Category Cub Cadet
Recently acquired a 2017 Challenger 750. Previous owner ran it low on oil so I had to do a top end. Starts and runs but it seems to be running very rich. There isn't too much information available for troubleshooting the EFI system. Air filter is new and I even tried running with it removed with no change. Some of the parts are relatively cheap, so I did replace the IAC and the MAF sensor. Could this be related to the TPS sensor or which direction should I head in next? There doesn't seem to be any adjustment on the TPS and I have read something about a WOT ECU reset but that didn't change anything.
Thanks in advance