2012 Polaris RZR800
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By Benny Glasow
We have pretty much decided to buy a Polaris utv to use around the place and for some irrigation stuff. We were thinking about getting a windshield, top, and rear window. All the Polaris utv accessories are pretty pricey and I was wondering if anyone had used some after market accessories? Any other thoughts on stuff that we should put on it?
Thanks
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By Jamesjoh
I just bought my first Polaris yesterday and I’m waiting for it to be delivered. I opted against getting the windshield and roof from the dealer — he roughly quoted about $1k for both, which seemed a bit steep — so I’m looking around online first.
I’m specifically shopping for Polaris Ranger XP 1000 accessories like windshield, roof, and other gear. Where do you all usually buy from, and do members here get any discounts or preferred vendors?
Thanks!
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By T6 Texan b
2012 hisun hs800 problem with grinding when moving shifter into high and low gear.
has a shifter cable “not” a rod or link edge . Any thoughts on how to fix this issue?
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By Robert301972
I just bought a 2012 can am commander xt Rotax 1000 4x4 EFI. It has 456 Hours on it and 6543 miles on it. From what I have read that is not a hole lot. It will start Right up run for about 5 or 10 sec then starts to stubble and then stalls. And ever time I start it It runs fine for the first 5 or 10 sec. I can Repeat the process for about 8 or 9 times and will will at least stay running. But it does not run fine until it is warmed up. Once it is up to operating temp it runs and drives fine. I have Replaced the fuel pump. Thinking that was the problem but no. I replace the map sensor It wouldn't even start with the new one in. So I put the old one back in and it started Right back up. I Think I had a bad map sensor. I will get a different one. It Is definitely a fuel problem. I just don't know what kind of problem. Here Is my thinking on all the sensors. (Crank sensor) all that does is send a single to the coils. That don't care if the motor is cold or warm. (Map sensor) all that does is measure the temp of the air.(Fuel Injectors) If they were bad it would not start at all. If they were clogged. It would run like shit if it was cold or warm. (Temp sensor) This is the only sensor that tells the computer weather the engine is cold or warm. So what is the temp sensor is telling the computer that the engine is warm. When I first start it. the computer will think that the engine is at operating temp. So It leans out the fuel mixture. So with a lean fuel mixture going into a cold engine. It Is going to stall. I have no scan tool to hook up to the computer. So Please help. I am at my wits End trying to figure this thing out.
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