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By ita47
I currently have a 2011 Polaris 400 H.O. that has fewer than 300 hrs on it. My buddy bought it new and I bought it with around 100 hrs. I use it around the farm and to get between two properties that are about a mile apart. I am tired of dealing with the choke when its cold or even cool out. It starts fine and runs ok if your driving but until it gets completely warmed up if you pull up to a gate and get off to open it will die. And because of the choke my wife has a hard time with it. Before I got the 400 I had a 2013 polaris 500 midsize that was fuel injected but aways ran rich and foul plugs. I had it at two different dealers and neither one could fix it. So I sold it and bought the 400. My father in law has a 2015 Polaris 570 midsize which is fuel injected and it is hard to start and cranks more than it should. Needless to say I am done with Polaris and ready to sell mine and move on to something better.
I have been looking at the Honda Pioneer 700 and the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX. I was disappointed to learn the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX engine is built by Hysun and not Kawasaki, but that maybe a non issue. Maybe I'm missing another good option that I haven't considered. The main thing is getting something that is bullet proof reliable. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
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By Aaron Miracle
It’s done this previously but it came back without a bolt turned. Im having trouble finding the power steering system in the hisun owner’s manual or the Coleman. Any ideas?
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By Everyday Medic
I have a 2012 Hisun 700 EFI, marketed in Canada back when I bought it under the Name "Power Max Rough Rider" I have had my issues over the years that always seem to come back to poor "economical wiring"
My issue is that on occasion I have a sudden and temporary loss of power. This occurs at two diffrent times. Both after the machine is good and warm.
1. Cruising down the road, the power will suddenly drop to nothing, I can press the throttle and habe a slight raise in RPM* but not high enough to engage clutches. This will last about 10 to 15 second, and of course right before I have rolled to a total stop, she come back on line.
2. Lower speed work, I plow with this machine. I will say come to a stop and the machine will not idle but drop down to well below idle and then die, upon restart the RPM does not come up to idle speed, but choke around 500 then die again. This occurs a few times, then we are back to normal.
*the RPM guage drops to zero even with the engine still running (digital) then when the unit returns to normal it also works.
I still have full electrical at all times. I have a few modifications on the unit. I run a double deep cycle/starting marine batteries in the winter, as I plow, this means I use the wench alot. I have an LED light bar, and added a hydraulic pump to turn the plow. Lastly a small heater core with a small fan to keep me warm.
I will also note that the speedometer has not functioned in a bit, just reads 00 I figure this another "economical" wiring issue, that I really don't care about, unless it's leading to another issue.
I have had to rewire a few things, like a few connectors. Replaced some wires that have shorted, or oddly have become damaged. I have changed a few relays, and the 4x4 switch, and servo. Any extra ls added have been added on a seprate isolated circuits thru its own fuse box.
I have a very mild thought it may be a throttle postion sensor.
Hoping someone can lead some insight, or at least point me where to begin investigating.
I would love this fixed, I have to drive down the road to get into the back section of the property where I shot.
Thank you.
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By martndavid
I have a 2008 American Sportworks CW413 / TW413 UTV that won't engage in to forward or reverse gears. Anyone know what might be wrong? A fix?
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By TriGeek
I am having an issue with my 2016 MSU 700. The ECU fuse keeps blowing. I'll replace it, drive a few yards, and it blows again. I read that if you disconnect the battery for an hour, it resets the ECU. So I tried that, and it actually worked. I was able to drive it for about 30 minutes and thought it was fixed. Two days later, I went to drive it again, and the ECU fuse blew again within a few feet of driving it. I replaced the fuse, and it blew again.
Help?
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