Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi.

I have changed pistons in my engine now and is done, head is on place and everything.

BUT now i saw in the joyner service manual that it was important that the connecting rods was installed "the right way" (D. When installing piston and connecting rod assembly into cylinders. The marked surfaces of the
connecting rod and piston must face the front of engine (fig.3-10).)

The pistons is correctly installed but when i installed the connecting rods i couldnt see any difference from side to side so i just put them back in and now one of them is "rotated" 180 degree if i looked at the texts on them.

So, does it matter? Is the manual a little bit "universal" or it is important? Has it to do with some oil lubrication? The only thing i noticed when i intstalled them was the bearing shell that has to be put back right so the notch goes in to the groove.

 

Anyone has any good answear to this?

 

/Jonas

Posted

...i dissamble everything again tomorrow and start over because i need to fix one of the threads to the top anyway.

I think the rods need to be faced with the correct side to the "front" because of the lubrication. There is a a little groove on the "front/right" side of the counterweights (beside the rod) where i think the oil goes through and then lubricate the bearing shell via the rod. There is certainly a little track or something on the rod side that line up with the groove on the counterweight.

If no one know for sure, i will let you now after dissamble everything...again...

Posted
...i dissamble everything again tomorrow and start over because i need to fix one of the threads to the top anyway.
I think the rods need to be faced with the correct side to the "front" because of the lubrication. There is a a little groove on the "front/right" side of the counterweights (beside the rod) where i think the oil goes through and then lubricate the bearing shell via the rod. There is certainly a little track or something on the rod side that line up with the groove on the counterweight.
If no one know for sure, i will let you now after dissamble everything...again...
Remember 1 time use bolts!!!
I rebuilt mine and got less than 100km until vibrating started


Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

Great, yes i change them to. So another question that we discussed at work was, Which side of the engine that is told as "front"?

I have learned that if the piston has an arrow it will always point at flywheel, and if the arrow goes other way (up/down) it will always point at exhaust.

But in the manual it says that piston and rod shall be faced at the same way, to the front. And the one at my job says that front of an engine is where all the belts is, not the flywheel side. So now im confused.  Any ides?

Shall the piston and rods point at flywheel or the other end?

Posted

Okay, my english is not the best, so what you mean is that flywheel side of the motor is back and the side where you put the alternator, belts and so on is the front?

My diffs are original, so far. This orginal motor that i fix now is only for inspection, then i have a ported and tuned zx1000r engine with a skyline diff that i will put in. But cant do it before the swedish inspection company has get me green light for two more years 🙂 We have to check those machine every two year so everything is okay, and changing the orginal engine is not okay, so stupid. 215 bhp is better in my ears than those 20-25 🙂 

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just want to say that everything works perfect...after the second rebuild 😛 I did change the piston so the arrow points to the right (water pump side) and the connecting rods marks points to the correct side. I had some problems with the distruberator but now it works. Thanks again for all the help, its realy great with this kinds of forum. 

IMG_20190825_143934.jpg

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. 
      Question 1:  When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines.
      Question 2:  I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance.  I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention.  I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here.
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated .
      Thank you all in advance,
      Chile
    • By Gerald Dillman
      Looking for a output shaft for a Joyner trooper t2. Went to move the buggy after sitting all winter and it appears the out put shaft that drives the rear wheels broke off inside the transmission so looking for the shaft or a complete transmission if someone has one
    • By Kevin Ullman
      View File 2015 Polaris RZR900 Service Manual
      2015 Polaris RZR900 Service Manual
      Submitter Kevin Ullman Submitted 04/23/2025 Category Polaris  
    • By Kevin Ullman
      View File 2013-2016 Polaris RZR 570 Service Manual
      2013-2016 Polaris RZR 570 Service Manual
      Submitter Kevin Ullman Submitted 04/23/2025 Category Polaris  
×
×
  • Create New...