2015 Cub Cadet Challenger 500 didgital dash stays on..
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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By fikey
I am about 6 months in to owning my 520. It is used mainly to run back and forth to our barn and shop. Occasionally, I run it up and down a few fairly steep hills on the property. One day, as I was going up one of the hills, the motor started sputtering and a tremendous amount of smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I was near the top and it made it (sputtering) up. Once back on the flat, I made it home. I loaded it on the trailer and took it back to the dealer. They said they checked everything out and found no issues. Over the next month or so, I only had occasion to go up hills once or twice with no issue. Then one day, again as I was going up a hill, the engine sputtered, giant plume of white smoke and then the engine died. 30 seconds later, started up and made it to the top. Repeated the route (down and up) and the same thing happened again. Called the dealer and their head of service said he would come out and wanted to see it first hand. He came out a few days later and repeated the route several time and it never happened with him in it. I had videoed the whole thing on one of the times it happened to me, but since it happens intermittently, could not produce it when he was here. I told him that I had checked the temperature, the oil level and the antifreeze level after each occurrence and they were normal. I asked him to call Kubota and ask what the possibilities were and that I am not fond of it dying on the hill and blowing the smoke and I didn't want to wait until something catastrophic happened to figure it out. When I followed up, they had no answers (which doesn't exactly please me). Any ideas? The attached photo was the start of the smoking. Didn't know how to upload the video of the whole thing, but it fogged the whole area.
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By riggy400
Bought a Coleman 400 UTV (pretty much a Hisun), the previous owner tried to replace the timing chain, couldn't time it properly and sold it to me. After some hours I figured out how the timing all is supposed to be set (I think/hope) and as I am reassembling, I noticed that the water pump gear was awfully hard to spin. I held the gear with my hand and spun off the impeller. I checked the bearing, spins great no obvious issues noticed other than this o-ring which seems to be out of place? When I remove this o-ring and reassemble the WP, it seems to spin nice and easy without a drag. I looked up the service manual (although very inaccurate info there often) and don't see this o-ring present. Am I missing something here or what? Any input?
This is not easy to access once the engine is back in the machine so would like to avoid having to deal with this if it becomes a problem.
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By jugliner
I have a fuel injected UT400 that will start and idle, but surges and sputters at higher speed. It has been sitting for 2-3 months and was fine when parked in garage. I assumed it was a fuel/air problem and pulled the throttle body and cleaned it up. I've ended up replacing the injector, IAC valve, MAF Temp Pressure Sensor, and fuel filter. I've also checked the spark plug, Still surging. I reset the ECU after every component swap.
I plan to pull the throttle body again and look evrything over for any visible leaks, etc.
Any suggestions would be appreciated on next steps. The problem developing after sitting makes me think it should be something simple, but I'm stumped. BTW the fuel was fresh and treated with Stabil.
Thanks.
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By Jamesshoop1
This was happening to me regularly with the original battery pack, I would drive a few yards and power cut to the motor, no error code, dash works, lights etc, just no drive. Brake lights not on so I don’t think it’s a switch thing. Sometimes it would go back to normal after a few day sitting in the barn. I ended up changing to lithium ion battery 100amp 48v and the problem completely went away for two months so I figured it was something worth the old battteries. Now it’s doing the same thing again, I’ve removed every main electrical connection, cleaned it good, and put it back together. Battery is at100 percent and good voltage. What is interesting is it doesn’t matter how much power I’m drawing, if I’m just creeping along in low or flooring it in high it stops after the same amount of time, about 7 seconds. If I let go of the acceleration right before the 7 seconds I can keep driving like that indefinitely but obviously that’s pretty annoying. Or if I switch immediately to reverse I can back up and go back to F without cycling the key. Has anyone else run into this? It really seems like a safety switch issue to me but unsure what else to check.
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