Front axel hub ball joints, adding greese fittings
By Roger Bennett
I recently bought a 2021 Coleman ut 400 although it is a 2021 I bought it new. From the start it would pop out of reverse. After driving it for about a half an hour, I backed up and it popped out of reverse. I researched the forums and tried to adjust the shift cable. No matter what I do there is no reverse. There was no noise or slamming in and out of gear. It just stopped pulling. Has anyone experienced a similar problem and how do I fix it. Any information would be appreciated.
I had mentioned in a previous post that I had removed the front anti-roll bar from my 2020 Outfitter 400; I ran that way for a month or so without noticing any downside however recently I installed a 'suicide knob" (see below) to assist my Parkinson's disease affected arms in turning the beast--but after doing so i found that in the quicker, tighter turns the knob permitted the vehicle would nosedive a bit, dig in, and plow on hard surfaces--not scary, but quite noticeably.
So I put the bar back on. Then today I got about 1-1/2 miles down the main road on the nearby power lines, turned around and came home to take it off--with the bar on, at 25 to 30 MPH, the front-end of the beast jumped like rabbit at each bump in either wheel rut., for a nearly brutal and quite uncomfortable ride. the bar (20 mm solid steel) is far too robust for the weight of the vehicle. The front bar on my 3900 lb. Infinity M37 is 30 mm...
suicide knob--for you younger folks:
Hi. Ive been searching for a wiring diagram, hopefully with photos, part #s so I can try to repair damage from rats eating wiring over the winter on the M550 cub cadet UTV. (sigh). haven't had any luck. i have a plug with dangling wires from under seat, next to battery compartment and hope to take to dealers to see if he can order replacement and hopefully it comes with long enough wires that i can splice back into remaining wires. not going to be easy. I'm not sure if there is any more damage, but would have to disassemble to get to bare chassis. sigh. not sure I can do all that, but just trying to find a diagram with photos. no luck. any ideas. thank you.
By Mike L
Does anyone know if you can adjust the front bench seat on an 850-5? I am about 6' 2" and the legroom for me is almost unbearable. My leg begin to cramp after a short distance. I noticed there are what look like adjustable nuts under the seat but I am not sure if they are for adjustment.
If you pay any attention to your UT400, you have probably noticed that the right front wheel tips in at the top a LOT. The left fronts seem to be about right from what I've seen. I look at them all when I'm at different stores just to see if they're all that way, and yes, they all seem to be that way.
There "should" be adjustments on either the ball joints or the inner pivot points, but these are solid, not way to adjust them.
I have the UT400 up on my 2-post lift and the right spindle seems to be around 3-deg tipped in at the top and the left spindle is about straight or maybe half a degree tipped in. This is at full suspension drop, not ride height. I took the shocks off and rotated the spindles from bottom travel to full max up travel, way more than the shocks will allow. The higher the spindle lift, the more tip in there is on both spindles. This is true because of the unequal upper and lower A-arms. It's just the nature of of the dual A-arms and them being unequal in length.
I took the inner pivot 8mm bolts out and inserted a lot smaller 1/4" bolts and pushed the lower A-arm inward and the angle on the spindle decreased. I then took the top inner bolts out and did the same thing, but pulled out instead. This got the spindle equal to angle of camber on the left side. I used the offset in the holes to see how much I need to go on the lower alone. I was also concerned about bottoming out the axle assembly because the spindle centerline will not be a bit closer to the front diff. But as it all turned out, it was not close to bottoming out.
I cut about 1/4" out of the two 1" A-arm tubes as they were welded to the lower ball joint mount casting. I tack welded them back together and trial fit it all together. That seemed to be about right. I took it all back apart and welded it up solid. Now it all looks to match the left side quite well.
Also want to use this in our yard and the stock tires are NOT turf friendly, especially with the solid "spool" rear differential. I found these on Amazon, 25x12-12" and 25x8-12" hard pack race tires as they're called. They're 6-ply and tubeless. The initial probably I had was that the size rating was not even close to the actual size. They said, install and then recheck the diameters and I did. They did get larger, but the rears are more than 1" smaller in diameter than the side wall stamping. Instead of 25", they're 23.75" tall. What I DON'T WANT are shorter tires. I had already purchased the used wheels at 12" to match the original factory diameter, but in hindsight I would now opt for 14" wheels with 4x110mm bolt pattern and would have been able to find a tire in the 27" diameter range a lot easier and cheaper. Live and learn they say.
Here are some pictures of before and after.
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