Test Drive the New Can-Am Maverick X3
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By HISUN Sector 750 EPS Failu
"Mrs. Smith" doesn't like how loud our Sector 750 is. On a HISUN forum someone said the same thing about his 750. I haven't given it much thought because I've been more focused on stuff that has broken.
So, I used my decibel meter to check ours out. 4000 RPM, Low gear, under 20 MPH . . . . 97 decibels. That's above most ordinances, even state boat noise limits.
AI Overview Ninety-seven (97) decibels is considered very loud and dangerous to hearing with prolonged exposure, roughly equivalent to a newspaper press, a loud nightclub, or a snowmobile. At this level, damage can occur after just 30 minutes, necessitating hearing protection -
By Andy Dickerson
So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines.
I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there.
I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag."
Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.
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By Rocahaja
Dumb question probably but what size drive chain is used on Massimo gunner 250? I believe it to be 520 but not sure. Thanks for helping
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By Tommy2bits
Just bought a brand new 2022 (NOS) Sector E1 with Lithium upgrade. (Single 135ah/200amp continuous). I've climbed a moderate hill in my woods probably 20 times since buying it. Today It won't climb it unless I am in Low. In High it almost makes it and then completely dies and I have to roll back down the hill. In Mid range (Max Range) I can't get 2 feet up the hill and the power output in only 100 amps, I have climbed this hill in every speed before many times. I put it on the trailer tonight and it wouldn't even get on the dang trailer in mid range. Torque is gone. That being said, when I am just cruising around in Midrange, it runs absolutely perfect with plenty of power. The only thing I did was charge it up, that is all. I charged to 100% using the charger that came with the battery. Before you think the BMS is shutting down due to overcharge protection, remember I am going UP hill so there is no regeneration AND I have done it before at 100% charge AND another big problem is that after 1 mile it is already down to 85% so it's not over charging and why is the battery draining so fast when I got 27 miles before. Battery output is fine in Low it pulls 200 amp up the hill just like normal so that doesn't point to the battery being the issue. All the individual cells on the battery are in line, so there is no dead cell either. I am tech savvy but to toward electric motors and I tried to cover all my bases. Please don't tell me basics like torque is reduced in High and Mid. The only thing I can think of is that I smelled something when I took my first drive today and I thought it was the Ebrake dragging but there was the correct amount of play in the cable and I jacked up the rear wheels and they spin freely. maybe something burned out in the motor, I do not knowm still runs great, we'll see if I have any trouble on the hills at the lake house this weekend. Maybe this is "Normal" and the settings were off before and was giving equal torque for whatever reason instead of 50% in Mid and 70% in High like the manual says....
For reference....this is it not even able to get on the trailer in mid range
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By Bill L
I have a 2022 sector 250 with a side ways engine. Both chain drive gears are missing teeth. The drive gear on the transmission shaft and the driven gear on the chain drive shaft. I have the part numbers but they are not to be found anywhere. My dealer contacted His in and their reply was not available. It was just out of an extended warranty. Any ideas? I wonder what they would have don't if still under warranty.
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