Andy Dickerson

So heard the grinding noise on the drive shaft a couple of times while going down a steep hill. Never heard this before going down the same hill. I already knew about the splines wearing out because of improper heat treating so I went through the process of removing the shaft to just replace it. A lot things need to be removed to get that thing out. Once I had it remove I didn't see any wear on the splines but what I did notice was the rear spline to rear differential had ZERO grease i.e. it was completely dry and I could see rust that had developed on the shaft splines and inside the differential mating surface. The front of the shaft where it connects to the transmission was well greased. Both ends of the shafts have springs in them with the rear spring being multiple times heavier which would force the shaft to mate securely into the transmission. Unless of course the rear is rusted and starts sticking which is what I think was happening. If the rear splines begin to rust and it starts sticking and the spring doesn't have the enough force to overcome the sticking because of the rust, the shaft will not get fully seated into the transmission. If this starts happening frequently it will eventually eat up the front splines on the transmission side shaft splines which is exactly what I see in the pictures of stripped splines. I don't know why the rear spline shaft wasn't greased but this would cause it to eventually stick. I have been concerned about this ever since reading about it so as soon as I heard the grinding I stopped driving it. Thankfully there wasn't any wear. I'm wondering if this was deliberate or just laziness by the assemblers. It makes no sense not to grease it. The repair manual that I purchased from motorcycle doctor specifies to grease the splines. Both shaft ends have a rubber seal meaning there's is supposed to be grease in there. I used to have a gold wing and there is a special grease required for the rear drive differential which happens to be a spline shaft setup. They use a lithium grease with moly. I had purchased a couple of tube of Magnalube-gx that I never used as I sold the bike. The Hisun manual recommends using a lithium grease which doesn't have the additives of a lithium moly grease that is specialized for spline shafts. Per magnalube website. "Magnalube-GX, however, uses a proprietary matrix of advanced polymers, molybdenum disulfide, and PTFE, so it stays where you put it without getting pressed out, while also maintaining a low frictional drag." Anyway, long story short everything is back together and no noise. I would recommend those that haven't checked the grease in the splines on both ends to do so before the shaft get destroyed. Especially If you have heard grinding. Those rubber boots can be pulled back without having to take to many parts off. If you've been hearing grinding then there is probably significant wear already and time to replace the shaft and grease it properly.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-500-bench-seat/ You can purchase the service manual from the link above. He will sell it to you on a thumb drive and the thumb drive has a ton of other information on it. It's worth the money. You might have to call to purchase the manual.

The codes are at the bottom of the ECU manual page 66. The ECU manual does have some T/S stuff in it. You could be missing a ground to the components listed below. Possibly inside a connector i.e. male to female connector not making contact. https://netcult.ch/elmue/HUD ECU Hacker/Delphi MT05 & MC21 Manual.pdf P0108 MAP Circuit High Voltage P0113 IAT Circuit High Voltage or Open P0123 TPS Circuit High Voltage P0132 O2A Circuit High Voltage P0650 MIL Circuit Malfunction

Sales Rep: NC Activity Qty Rate Amount 660 Sheave Combo 1 425.00 425.00T I don't know if this will fit the 500. I think you will have to do a little research to compare if the same CVT clutch is used on the 500/700 axis machine. I think it is.

I just went through this with my axis 700 and ended up purchasing a Hunterworks cvt upgrade. I also use mine in the mountains of NC and even the 700 isn't geared for the mountains. No chip is going to makeup for this as they are just under powered for this purpose. The CVT clutch upgrade changes the gearing I would say significantly lowering the gearing for climbing hills. It will also drop your top end as well. If you go with a Hunterworks upgrade clutch you'll need a new belt as well. If you are running this in the mountains you need to keep your UTV in lower gear. If you run it in high hear you'll destroy your clutch quickly.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-500-bucket-seat/ Go to the bottom of the page and print the schematic and you'll find how the fuel pump is wired in.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/hisun-parts/magneto-400/ Here one at the motorcycledoctor website.

This is really pointing to something common like a wire, either ground or power. It's pretty much calling out codes for all of the sensors that provide information to the ECU. If you look at the schematic I gave you a link to, look for a common wire connection or possibly a loose or corroded ground wire. For all the codes to come back there has to be a common source. A no signal and low voltage warning indicate no voltage present or a missing ground i.e. a lack of reference to ground.

The other thing to consider is that the IAC is sticking up inside the throttle body due to build carbon buildup. Even if you replaced it and there was build up the new one would stick as well. If the IAC sticks shut it won't idle and will only stay running if you give it throttle. Mine stuck again a month ago but is ok now. I'm going to polish the end and clean up side the throttle body with the spray carbon remover. I might even put a little dry lube PTFE on the end after I polish it.

You can use the software to clear all the old error codes and start from a clean slate. If the TPS continues to fault out it could be a connection issue i.e. a pin in a connector pushed in creating an open. If you leave the TPS in will it still throw the TPS error code? The TPS is nothing more that a potentiometer and you should be able to check it with a volt ohm meter. It should have three wires going to it 12V from the battery, center tap that goes to the ECU and ground. The ECU uses the center tap to determine the position of the throttle and adjusts everything accordingly. I would check the TPS with the key turned on and use volts on the meter. Place one lead on ground the other on the center tap then press the throttle and the voltage should change incrementally as the throttle is pressed and then return back to the idle setting. You can find a schematic on this page at the bottom https://motorcycledoctor.com/parts/utv-700-bucket-seat/

Something else you might want to consider is the hudhacker software tool for our ECU. More than likely it would have been cheaper and easier to diagnose with the software and the adaptors. This is the link for the software which I have and have used. HUD ECU Hacker (netcult.ch) It will probably tell you want sensor is actually bad as it's scans the ECU and ECU faults. There's a write up how to here on the coleman UTV forum.

If your model is fuel injected then look at the AIC valve/servo motor that is located under the throttle body. My 2021 Hisun i.e. Axis 700 periodically does the same thing and the cause is the AIC sticking. The AIC has a small mushroom shaped piston that is internal threaded that opens and closes based on the input to the ECU. The symptom's you described are exactly what I have when it sticks. It did it again to me this last week. The fix for me is to remove it very carefully as it has some small part that can get lost rather easily and clean the carbon off the piston. This time I think I'm going to add a little grease to see if it stops sticking. I might even polish it up gently with buffing compound using a Dremel. I actually loosen the throttle body and turn it to get access to the thing.

It might not be a charging issue. It could be drain on the battery. Put a volt meter on the battery while it's running, if you are getting 13.5V or higher then the battery is being charged. If you are getting less than that i.e. the battery reads 12.5v then you do have a charging problem. I just found a .450ma drain on my axis 700 that is coming from the ECU and it drains my battery in a very short time period. If the battery is charging you'll need a volt meter capable of reading amps. Search youtube for parasitic drain on a battery and there's clear instructions how to find it.

My other question would be installing the shim moves the outer clutch closer to the engine thus raising the belt higher in the sheave producing more low-end torque? This change would help for better climbing ability along with the higher-pressure spring on the secondary clutch that would also help in the same manner? How noticeable was the change in climbing/takeoff etc... for you? Do you ride in hilly areas?