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By buckrub
Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible.
Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL
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By Nathon S.
I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year. Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
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By aefron88
I've seen a number of requests for the location of all the grease points on these machines, and there is no definitive list in the manual. This covers the UT400, but other Coleman/Hisun models should be similar.
Tools:
First to grease your machine you need a grease gun and some NLGI#2 grease. You will find it helpful to buy a needle attachment as pictured here, due to poor clearance on some of the U-joints. The rest of the zerks use the standard attachment.
Technique:
Wipe any dirt/grease off the zerk before greasing to prevent pushing gunk inside and causing excess wear.
Push the grease gun on the zerk at a straight angle and give it a few pumps. You will hear an oozing noise or sea grease coming out from the outside of the greased area when you've put enough grease in, a few pumps should be plenty.
If it's just oozing around the zerk you either don't have a good seat with the gun, or the zerk may be rusted and the check ball frozen. Try seating it again and regrease.
Wipe up any excess grease when youre done to prevent making a mess.
Greasepoints:
Rear A-Arms are greasable with the wheels on from the rear, I took the picture with the wheel off for easier visibility
That's it. All other Hisuns should be substantially similar.
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By aefron88
View File Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 Parts Diagrams
Compiled document with parts diagrams for Hisun HS400/Coleman UT400 for help in repairs where the service manual diagrams are poor or non existent.
Submitter aefron88 Submitted 04/15/2024 Category Hisun
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By Jon C
Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers.
I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake).
After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue.
I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament.
Please let me know if you have had similar issues.
Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
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