Quantcast
Jump to content


Are there any performance parts for ut400?


Recommended Posts

JMHO, but I think you bought the wrong machine if you are looking to hop something up. Whatever you could do wouldn’t overcome the fact that you have a single speed un changeable gearing in a 1100 lb platform powered by a little “400” engine. Most owners focus on noise reduction and trying to make it more comfortable. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got the machine basically for free with a blown engine. I rebuilt the engine, replaced crank, cylinder, piston and timing chain. It runs good and has a top speed of alittle over 40. It seems to me that the engine is a clone of a kodiak 450 efi, so i figured parts for them should work. I know it will never be fast being a 400 but wanted to get alittle more pulling power out of it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let us know if you find parts that fit. I believe it's a rhino 450 clone, but not sure if engine parts are swappable,, AND I've yet to read any definitive reports of anything swappable.

The engine tune is adjustable via HUD ECU hacker software, which is free. Just need about $25 in cabling and the time and knowledge to play with the fuel mapping.

Here's my explanation on how to get HUD ECU hacker working on these rigs and what you need

That having been said its a 400 so you wont likely squeeze much more out of the engine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
On 1/8/2023 at 5:57 PM, lincolnsq175 said:

I got the machine basically for free with a blown engine. I rebuilt the engine, replaced crank, cylinder, piston and timing chain. It runs good and has a top speed of alittle over 40. It seems to me that the engine is a clone of a kodiak 450 efi, so i figured parts for them should work. I know it will never be fast being a 400 but wanted to get alittle more pulling power out of it.

 

You may want to use your cell phone GPS app to clock your speed and compare it to the speedo in the UT400.  I did this and it's almost 10 mph off.  Speedo read 42 mph and the GPS was 33 mph.  I really don't think they're very accurate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By John Gubancsik
      I'm having trouble finding a replacement battery for my UT400.  Has anyone bought one and where did you get it?  Thanks.
    • By Browner010
      Recently I had an overheating issue on my 2022 Coleman Outfitter 550 (Hisun UT550) and to check to make sure it was fixed I took it out for a ride around the block. After a couple cycles on the LED coolant meter, I took it for a couple mile ride and on my way back I heard a loud metallic snap then a grinding noise. It was still able to move under its own power but very slowly. I was about 2 blocks from the truck so 'I limped it home and up onto the trailer. I know I need to tear it apart and look for what broke, but anyone have a guess as to where to start? I'm seriously getting tired of this damn machine! 750 miles on it and already replaced the belt, wet clutch, primary clutch, clutch roller weights among a few other things. Seriously, this friggin machine has spent more time on the lift than on the road. I thought I bought this new because it was from the owner of a tractor supply, but he registered it under the stores name making me the 2nd owner voiding any and all warranties.
      Any Ideas what to look for would be appreciated.
      Thanks
    • By Pat bishop
      I have forward and reverse but no neutral on my ut 400 Coleman 
    • Fast Free Shipping on All Orders Over $50
    • By Ridge Runner
      Hi
      i have a 2019 Coleman 550 Outfitter.  The tail gate has a pin on each side, that snaps into latch blocks that are mounted on the inside of the tail gate opening.  There are two M6x16 pan head screws(bolts?) that hold the latch blocks in place.  The screws enter from inside the bed body, and I can’t figure out how to access them.  This is right by the tail light assemblies.  I tried taking a pan head screw out of the fender lip, but found out there is not a nut firmly inplace, to hold the pan head screw in.  Bottom line I’m making it worse.  
      coleman was no help.  If I could figure out how they attached the tail light, then maybe I could put the latch screws in through the tail light hole.  Any ideas?
       
      thanks
      Ridgerunner
×
×
  • Create New...