Leaderboard

If it helps, my manual is for the Axis E1, which is just a re-branded version of the Hisun sold at Lowe's. It also says change the oil after the first 100 miles and then every 500 miles after that. There are operating time and calendar time limits too (50 hrs/6 months), but who's going to change their gear oil every six months? 🙂

I don’t think I agree with the tech’s advice about off road only. The machine doesn’t know or care where you are. Now there will be added stress to the clutch on road if you make tight turns. This is because the rear wheels are fighting one another and increasing rolling resistance. However, off roading also increases rolling resistance. Compare pushing a loaded wheelbarrow on concrete vs across the lawn. Point is, just drive the machine and don’t worry about this stuff. If the clutch wears out- replace it. About the only thing I’ve found that can’t be fixed is stupidity. And as yet I haven’t detected much of that on this forum. Pop Bob

Hmmm...not sure I buy that assertion. I understand that you should not drive around in high gear except when driving at higher speeds due to excess wear on the clutch, even though it seems smooth and quieter driving around in high. FWIW, our is driven only on the street. Original clutch still operates as new at 4500 km. As for the spline wear being a prophylactic measure, sounds reasonable, but it seems to me that as it wears out it may put greater impact loading on the rear end gears. I noticed ours getting "lurchy" before it failed. When you pull it apart and nothing but rust crumbs fall out it and the splines are worn to nubs makes you believe its not intended to fail that way. In my case it was not an instantaneous failure of splines from over-stressing the drive train. I attribute my spline failure (and I suspect some others may be as well) as a direct result of using a lower quality alloy for the shaft or not properly heat treating the splines. I like my Hisun overall, but it does suffer from some design/manufacturing defects. Relative to it's overall value I have found it occasionally irritating but generally acceptable. Sorry if that sounds argumentative...really just sharing my experience with the issue. Regardless, if there's a takeaway from this it's that it is a good idea to pull the shaft and inspect it before it fails, especially if you notice your ride getting lurchy. It's pretty easy to get at.

Also, the Tech Team guy said it's not good that we use our UTV primarily to take our dog for a ride on our paved lake road, that it should only be used off-road, because of the wet clutch. I never would have known that!

That exact failure occurred with my 750 with about 3500 km. It's clearly a factory defect...either the splines are not hardened or they just corrode and degrade from moisture. Really ought to be greased IMO but mine was dry as the desert from the factory. When I replaced, I greased the parts well for assembly.

Yup- that would be a good thing

I asked HISUN Tech Support exactly that, and the answer is no. I also found out that it is probably not my rear differential that has gone bad. It is more likely that the splines in the coupler have sheared. It's engineered for them to fail first, in order to save the differential. In any event, the HISUN Tech Team is going to work with our local repair facility, to walk them through diagnosing and repairing our Sector 750 EPS. Hopefully it is just a $20 coupler.

Of course it is. But why would you. You mean because the front diff unlocks?

Also related, is it possible to disable/disconnect the rear wheel drive, and operate in 4WD, with just the front pulling?

You would have to do the research on axle fitment hubs etc. Motorcycle doctor has most the microfiche. Unless your worried ab9ut tearing up your lawn on sharp turns unlocking diff simply has more parts to break inside... just saying