Brennan11

There are a number of on-the-car, shadetree tests for your ignition coil, but to definitively determine whether your coil is on the way out, the only proper coil test is with a multimeter. Why? Here's the rundown: Inside an ignition coil are two coils of wire on top of each other. These coils are called windings. One winding is called the primary winding, the other is the secondary. The primary winding gets the juice together to make a spark and the secondary sends it out the door to the distributor. Either one of these windings can go bad and cause your ignition coil to fail. Sometimes an ignition coil is bad, clearly bad, as in it makes no spark at all. But if a coil is on the way out, but not dead yet, it can make a weak spark that can cause the car to run rough or wrong. By testing an ignition coil with a multimeter while it's disconnected, you'll be using data and numbers to determine the health of the coil rather than your eyeballs and dead reckoning. We'll show you how to test both the primary and secondary ignition coil windings using a multimeter.

When you and your friend have the same off roading vehicle – for example a Kawasaki Mule – and you were the one out of the two that actually purchased your Kawasaki Mule Parts from the SXS Headquarters website, your friend is going to be heated when they find out how much you paid for your brand new Kawasaki Mule Parts. This is true, because the Kawasaki Mule Parts on the SXS Headquarters website rival the best prices on the website. In addition to the discounted prices that are seen on the SXS Headquarters website, you will also be happy to know that you can find all of your Kawasaki Mule Parts, because the SXS Headquarters website has an extensive collection of Kawasaki Mule Parts.

We have a 3010 Mule that will idle perfectly, but will falter when the throttle is opened. It will run up a bit and then do nothing as long as the throttle is open. It is about three years old but has low hours (42). I expected to find stale gasoline and gunk in the float bowl, fuel filter, and carbureter bowl. Everything was clean, the float is OK, and the electric fuel pump has good pressure and volume. The carb has a barrel for each of the two cylinders and a separate main and idle jet for each cylinder. I took out the four threaded jets that are removable and found them clean. The vehicle will run sufficiently to move the vehicle on level ground if the mixture is enriched a bit with the choke out. I was completely convinced that the problem is fuel related, but after taking the carbureter apart for the second time and checking everything else I am stumped. Occasionally when running it enriched, I hear a knocking sound as if detonation is occuring, leading me to suspect the ignition module. I know of a tractor that would idle but die with opened throttle as the increased pressure shut the spark off. To bring this thought in line with the observed behavior I reasoned that a richer mixture is easier to light. I hope that someone has experience with these things.