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About canyonsmitty

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  1. In answer to my own question and to guide anyone else who is contemplating such and undertaking, here is a brief description for removing the rear reducer from a Commando: 1. Remove tilt bead after disconnecting all wiring to rear lights. Note: this requires helpers, an engine lift or a front end loader to pick up the bed -it is heavy! 2. Remove brake calipers on both sides and support from frame with baling wire. 3. Remove brake disks. 4. Remove axle nuts and bearing supports on each side. Bearing support is held by two bolts to swing arms. 5. Pop out half shafts with pry bar or similar tool between reducer housing and half shaft. Use tool large enough to spread load so that there is no damage to housing. Joyner only sells complete diffusers but no internal parts so if diffuser is trash -have at it. 6. Clear access to reducer; it will be removed straight up between frame members: a. Remove breather(?) Fitment from exhaust pipe. It is connected to a hose; tuck out of way. b. Remove distributer coil and mounting bracket. c. Cut zip ties on wiring harness if necessary to place slack in harness. 7. Turn emergency brake disk so that retaining pin is horizontal. The pin is on the drive shaft side of the disk. Remove cotter pin and retaining pin. 8. Using baling wire, tie emergency brake disk up to frame above to support it's weight. Note; at this point it helps to have external support on reducer. If available use a strap and engine lift or overhead hoist or other means. This also reduces the effort in extracting the reducer later. 9. Using a large screw driver or similar tool inserted between the emergency brake disk and the reducer separate the disk from the reducer. There is a splined shaft on the reducer that fits into the disc hub. CAUTION! Make sure you do not extract the drive shaft from the transmission! Work the emergency brake disk/drive shaft toward the transmission as you lower the reducer and work the reducer to the rear of the machine. The spline shaft is about 2" long and there is enough room to accomplish this even if it doesn't look like it. 10. Once the spline has cleared, the reducer can be turned vertical and will clear the frame. Be prepared for oil spill. The reducer will empty itself during the above procedure. Either drain it before or have a way of catching the oil during the procedure. Use penetrating oil liberally. Most fasteners are secured with lock tight. Use when going back together!
  2. I need to replace my rear reducer, and talked to Joyner-USA who indicated that I can only replace the rear reducer with an identical one. I would like to eliminate the permanently locked characteristic of the Commando and go to a locking/inlocking differential as is used on other models. I tore the original one up because I have to follow paved drive to get unit out of my garage-storage area. It was just too much for the machine as well as leaving a lot of rubber behind in the process. Has anybody looked into this? Thanks.
  3. Hi All I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience: 1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin? 2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out? 3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame. 4 I see a lot of references to "Lenny" in reference to upgrade kits. Can someone give me a link to "Lenny" and do any of his kits fit the Commando? 5 Has anyone developed a description of the reducer teardown and rebuild or a YouTube of same. Any info is greatly appreciated and thanks!
  4. Thanks guys, this is the most logical (and cheapest) route.
  5. I recently purchased a 2008 Commando and in looking for a way to have a spare tire ran smack into the different size wheels and tire widths on the Joyner. Right now it's got a 27x9-12's on 12x6 4-2,4 wheels in the front and 27x11-12's on 12x8 4-2,6 wheels at the rear. These are original tires although they are listed as 25 inchers in the parts manual. I originally thought that if I bought a pair of 27 or 26x10's I could eventually work myself into 10" wide tires all around. Problem is that I've only got somewhere around ½-5/8" between the tire and the drag link ball on the front. It occurs to me that I could use spacers to set the front wheels out further. Also a lot of wheels are sold in a 7" width 2,5 or 3,4. Any of you have a recommendation as to how to approach this issue? It seems silly to have to buy two spares (wheels and tires) because of the different size. Of course the smaller front tire could be used on the rear for recovery purposes. I run almost exclusively in rocky ground but do not race or operate in the extreme. Any suggestions about what wheels and tires to go to? I still have some life in the old ones but the lugs are beginning wearing down and I have developed a couple of slow leaks. Thanks

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