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About canyonsmitty

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  1. In answer to my own question and to guide anyone else who is contemplating such and undertaking, here is a brief description for removing the rear reducer from a Commando: 1. Remove tilt bead after disconnecting all wiring to rear lights. Note: this requires helpers, an engine lift or a front end loader to pick up the bed -it is heavy! 2. Remove brake calipers on both sides and support from frame with baling wire. 3. Remove brake disks. 4. Remove axle nuts and bearing supports on each side. Bearing support is held by two bolts to swing arms. 5. Pop out half shafts with
  2. I need to replace my rear reducer, and talked to Joyner-USA who indicated that I can only replace the rear reducer with an identical one. I would like to eliminate the permanently locked characteristic of the Commando and go to a locking/inlocking differential as is used on other models. I tore the original one up because I have to follow paved drive to get unit out of my garage-storage area. It was just too much for the machine as well as leaving a lot of rubber behind in the process. Has anybody looked into this? Thanks.
  3. Hi All I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience: 1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin? 2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out? 3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame. 4 I see a lot of references to "L
  4. Thanks guys, this is the most logical (and cheapest) route.
  5. I recently purchased a 2008 Commando and in looking for a way to have a spare tire ran smack into the different size wheels and tire widths on the Joyner. Right now it's got a 27x9-12's on 12x6 4-2,4 wheels in the front and 27x11-12's on 12x8 4-2,6 wheels at the rear. These are original tires although they are listed as 25 inchers in the parts manual. I originally thought that if I bought a pair of 27 or 26x10's I could eventually work myself into 10" wide tires all around. Problem is that I've only got somewhere around ½-5/8" between the tire and the drag link ball on the front. It occurs to

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