Quantcast
Jump to content

canyonsmitty

Commando rear reducer gone south

Recommended Posts

Hi All

I have owned a 2008 Commando for a little over a year. It is relatively low milage for its age as it was stored for most of those years. In any case I have managed to tear up the rear reducer. I have several question for any one with experience:

1 It appears that the reducer can be separated from the drive shaft by removing cotter key and pin?

2 Are the half axles removed by snatching with a slap hammer? Any easy way to to get them out?

3 Once all that is done, will the reducer clear the various cross members to get it out of the frame.

4 I see a lot of references to "Lenny" in reference to upgrade kits. Can someone give me a link to "Lenny" and do any of his kits fit the Commando?

5 Has anyone developed a description of the reducer teardown and rebuild or a YouTube of same.

Any info is greatly appreciated and thanks!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites


In answer to my own question and to guide anyone else who is contemplating such and undertaking, here is a brief description for removing the rear reducer from a Commando:



1. Remove tilt bead after disconnecting all wiring to rear lights.



Note: this requires helpers, an engine lift or a front end loader to pick up the bed -it is heavy!



2. Remove brake calipers on both sides and support from frame with baling wire.


3. Remove brake disks.


4. Remove axle nuts and bearing supports on each side. Bearing support is held by two bolts to swing arms.


5. Pop out half shafts with pry bar or similar tool between reducer housing and half shaft. Use tool large enough to spread load so that there is no damage to housing. Joyner only sells complete diffusers but no internal parts so if diffuser is trash -have at it.


6. Clear access to reducer; it will be removed straight up between frame members:


a. Remove breather(?) Fitment from exhaust pipe. It is connected to a hose; tuck out of way.


b. Remove distributer coil and mounting bracket.


c. Cut zip ties on wiring harness if necessary to place slack in harness.


7. Turn emergency brake disk so that retaining pin is horizontal. The pin is on the drive shaft side of the disk. Remove cotter pin and retaining pin.


8. Using baling wire, tie emergency brake disk up to frame above to support it's weight.



Note; at this point it helps to have external support on reducer. If available use a strap and engine lift or overhead hoist or other means. This also reduces the effort in extracting the reducer later.



9. Using a large screw driver or similar tool inserted between the emergency brake disk and the reducer separate the disk from the reducer. There is a splined shaft on the reducer that fits into the disc hub.



CAUTION! Make sure you do not extract the drive shaft from the transmission! Work the emergency brake disk/drive shaft toward the transmission as you lower the reducer and work the reducer to the rear of the machine. The spline shaft is about 2" long and there is enough room to accomplish this even if it doesn't look like it.


10. Once the spline has cleared, the reducer can be turned vertical and will clear the frame.



Be prepared for oil spill. The reducer will empty itself during the above procedure. Either drain it before or have a way of catching the oil during the procedure. Use penetrating oil liberally. Most fasteners are secured with lock tight. Use when going back together!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


  • Similar Topics

    • By blissman20
      Hey guys, just to give you a bit of back story here first.  I used to ride big mud machines and SxS in the swamp.  Went through a divorce and lost almost everything.  What I got to keep was a snowmobile that I had for years and never rode anymore and wasn’t worth much to me so I decided to try trading it for more or less any UTV/SxS I could.  Well that landed me here, I just traded it for a 2008 Kandi KD650 which is a direct clone of the Joyner Commando 650.  The machine is in rough shape but runs and drives.  I have a few things to repair on it. (Seized choke cable, seized Ignition, and needs a voltage regulator). Going to to princess auto today to pick up a choke cable, and ignition, I have a voltage regulator from an old project that I will wire in.  
      The only thing I am wondering about is the rear end.  The guy I traded it for told me only one rear tire will spin when in 2 wd.  Is that the way all of these are is do  I need to rip it apart.  Also is there any aftermarket support for rear axles or axles that will fit that can be cut down and sleeved and rewelded.  Buddy there did some rednecking with a Polaris axle but not sure how strong it is. 




    • By rh242603
      Hello-
       
      New to the forum so luckily there is some help out there lol. Recently bought a 2008 Joyner 1600cc sand viper and loving it. Took it out and had a little accident with a tree stump lol. The stump hit directly on my passenger side tie rod end and broke the heim joint that connects the tie rod end to the wheel. Does anyone know the size of the adjustable heim joint so I can order one? I am having a hard time sourcing one quickly. I am also guessing since it is an outter tie rod end, that it is LH pitched rather than RH? thanks for any help anyone can provide. This is again for the outter tie rod end heim joint that snapped. Thanks
    • By Matthew Zeller
      My grandpa has a Yamaha wolverine side by side. It has a solid rear axle.  The problem is it tears up the yard when he turns. Question is has anyone or can he make it into a differential by anyway gear box swap or change some gears. Thanks if you can help!
    • By fettman1176
      Anyone know where to get new rear arms for T2?
    • By 12TROOPERT2
      Hi there. Has anyone run across any higher quality rear swing arm bushings for the troopers? 
  • Similar Tagged Content

    • By Nokie
      The rear gear box has a big hole in it were the drive line enters. The engine runs well and it has chrome wheels .
      what on earth should I do with it ?
      Any ideas would be appreciated !
    • By JeremyH
      I recently replaced my rear driveshaft on my 08 Commando 650.  Unfortunately, the parking brake rotor was welded to the old one, and the new one did not have one.  The folks at Joyner recommended just moving the caliper to the rear wheel as there is a second bracket I could mount it to.  However, the brake line is too short to reach that bracket, anyone done this reposition before?  Are there standard size brake lines and fittings that I can buy to move it?  Right now I have it bolted back up to the factory bracket but it sucks to not have a parking brake.
    • By canyonsmitty
      I need to replace my rear reducer, and talked to Joyner-USA who indicated that I can only replace the rear reducer with an identical one. I would like to eliminate the permanently locked characteristic of the Commando and go to a locking/inlocking differential as is used on other models. I tore the original one up because I have to follow paved drive to get unit out of my garage-storage area. It was just too much for the machine as well as leaving a lot of rubber behind in the process.
      Has anybody looked into this? Thanks.


×
×
  • Create New...