Mopartist

Thats REALLY different! Riding way high in the back......might be kinda scarey

My wife and I are planning on attending the "Ralley on the Rocks" event in Moab this May, and I was checking out some of the YouTube video's from last year. MAN!!! Are you kidding me? Most of those guys don't even wear helmets while climbing incredible angles. I don't think I would even attempt any trail rated over a 3 or so! Especially with a manual tranny. What I'm wondering is Troopers have a history of breaking axles and driveshafts right?. Do you think casual off roading on sandstone with mega traction will cause a breakage? I don't clutch dump ever (knowing that there are some weak links in the drivetrain.) What do ya think? I probably should pick up an extra drive shaft before going huh!

Yes; post some photo's! Welcome to the Forum. I don't think I've seen a rear seat conversion before on a Trooper. And the Brembo brakes sound really interesting. 5K is a GREAT deal. I was trying to sell mine a couple of months ago for 6K and felt like I was giving it away. Anyway; in the long run; I'm glad it didn't sell. I have big plans for it now

Wow; thats awesome! I have an 07' WRX STI and once a local tuner got ahold of it; he unlocked tons of power. It's all over my head; but somebody who understands the process can really make a huge difference in the way that little Cheri engine runs.

This is the site I use, http://www.rr4w.com/pageview.aspx?menu=4422&id=16364 All trails in Moab have great trail heads where you can park. In Utah, what the local LEO told us, they honor your your State's registration for the Street. The limitation is you can not drive on the main highway or main street, all back streets & roads. If your State requires an additional off-road sticker, they also honor it. If it does not, you will have to purchase UT's off-road sticker. They do check! Moab is great, all of the trails are great and NOTE the difficulty rating on the above site for each trail. That is the min rating, can be even more difficult. Best to be on the buddy system. Take a LONG tow strap & a LONG strong rope. Tow strap is tow & the rope is to tie on to the roll bar using a dozen guys pulling to keep you from rolling over.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Hey thanks Rocmoc! I'm trying to talk my in-laws into meeting us there maybe for the 5th annual UTV Rally (IF they have it this year. I understand the usual hosts quit)

I want to go to Moab this May or June, and am looking for advice on where to stay. We would have to hotel it this time as I don't have a camping trailer. But what I'm wondering is where the best parking (truck w/ trailer) and accessability to the riding areas are? Also I'm wondering if our Joyners are street legal in Moab? And if not; where the best staging areas are? Thanks in advance!

Awesome! I had forgotten that I had registered on that site. It will be a good thing for the Joyner community as we grow. Were gonna have to have a car show pretty soon. You know? "Glam Shots". I'm gonna be custom painting my Trooper in the next few weeks

Ohhhhhhh! Now I see what you mean. Yes; the spindle and the spacer are parellel to the ground. Thanks guys! Physics isn't my strong suit.

However; there would probably be a bit softer ride due to the force point being farther out from the pivot point I think. (Same as gripping a wrench up close to the nut rather than at the end where you can get more torque; or the use of a breaker bar)

Oooops; I'm wrong now I see!

I'm not sure I agree with you Lenny. I think you were right the first time. Although this is a crude drawing; this is the way i understand it. That due to a longer radius; the travel of the A arm also increases.

Thanks guys. Hopefully some of the vendors will have it dialed in before long. Since Silverbullet and No Limits are also Joyner vehicle dealers; maybe they can come up with the perfect combo and settings. I hate it that ALL of the aftermarket vendors do not include Joyner in any of their services. Heck they even include Kubota (which isn'rt even a sport/performance vehicle) When i get my Trooper dialed in; I'm going hunting for Razors. The other 2 are no threat. (except for CanAm)

Yeah; the thing that I'm noticing is that some of the vendors offers Walker Evans shocks; and unless I'm not understanding it correctly (which is highly possible if not probable) ; then they are charging a price for "each" shock and from Walker Evans it's the same price for a pair. So I'm needing the stock specs to see if I can check in to Rancho, or Bilstien, or Fox. All of their websites have shocks for Yamaha, Polaris, and Kawasaki and I can't help but think we (Trooper owners) may use the same shock and a heavier spring. The long travel kits for the big 3 only have 6 inches of travel. I don't know what that would work out to as far as wheel travel at the end of the A arms and trailing arms? Again; I'm probably wrong on this; but if I don't ask; I may end up with the wrong shock at a higher price.

I don't know much about shocks, but I couldn't help but wonder if anyone has compared Rhino, Polaris, and Kawi aftermarket shock kits to what it would take to fit a Trooper? (On second thought; Our Troopers are about 300 lbs heavier) but could that be made closer with springs?

I am having my new Fox shocks re-valved next week, one free re-valving came with the purchase. I pulled the shocks off today and took the Trooper for a ride without the shocks. Keep in mind I released all N2 pressure in the Joyner Coil-over shocks that I am using for the springs only. I was surprised the diff was so small. You could feel a small increase in the small bumps action but not that bad. Same with the big rebound going thu a large dip. Mid-range seem to have not changed. But overall did not feel quite as solid/secure/safe. I have back off on the spring ride height/tension on the spring trying to soften the ride. Yes I know the spring rate control the softness but It will release some. I am going to back off a bunch more on the spring height/tension as the change/feel has been almost nothing so far.

The shocks. I am going to have them softened by 30%. Just so you know, when you change by more than 10% the entire shock is changed thu the entire shock stroke. 10% or less they make a simple washer change that only effects the top end of the stroke.

Since I have driven Lenny's Trooper I have a good comparison. His is much softer than mine and has much much more sway when turning. I have yet made any adjustments to the front and you can not do one without effecting the other. Will have the Shocks back by the end of next week and reinstalled by the following week. Will report the results. I am also going to take a BIG swing at backing off the tension on the springs, rear & front. Let me say tho my trooper is already the best handling 4X4 I have had, I could live with it as it is.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I'm curious if you use front wheel spacers on your Trooper; and if so, did they make any change in the ride? Could I ask what specs are the correct ones for aftermarket shocks? I will be ordering shocks in the near future and am a bit perplexed as to what I need. I'm also looking for a "cushy" ride. Not alot of jumping; but want it to be able to handle it if I find myself flying off a cliff.

Oh this is just a photoshop rendering of what my plan is. I just did new hinges on my 1970 Mini Cooper Van and used the AutoLoc hinges for that....thus giving me an example of what can be done fairly easily.

Have any of you fabbed doors for your Trooper? Here's my plan .....1/4 inch polypropylene sheeting, steel reinforced frame. Hinged so doors sweep up when opened. AutoLoc latches. Window net

I just went through my emails again and I have nothing from anyone about shocks. Did you send to me or the general parts email?

It was through the website to [email protected] on the 7th. Anyways; whats the news on shocks? Are they remote reservoir? Adjustable? Price?

If I was to go aftermarket to upgrade my shocks, I would of gone down the same road as Kinarfi with F-O-A. If I went with Fox or the others, no doubt I would be happy too.

Now there is no need to look any further than Joyner itself. The new shocks that are now part of the new Joyner models are available now for your Trooper. These have been manufactured to a very high standard and are made for the Joyner range of UTVs and Buggies. These shocks are pre-dial in and make a huge difference in the Troopers handling ability. If you interested, contact Jarrad (snowman 6479) or No Limits. Ive got some heading my way now.

Cheers Mike.

I'm anxious to see how well they perform. I also will be in the market for shocks and have looked into "King Shocks" and Walker Evans shocks......... SPENDY!!! I e-mailed "No Limits" last week regarding shocks. I guess they just placed it in the round file.

Do you still have the driveline available?

I reinforced my roll cage, and refitted the engine cover (which isn't finished yet). I plan on doing a shock upgrade to remote reservoir King Shocks. I want to rewire some of the toggles as i keep draining my battery due to forgetting to check the stock toggles. Replacement with a new toggle panel with "ON" lights will work fine. I want to put different tail lights and reconfigure the back bumper. (I've always thought it was ugly). Maybe a chip for increased HP? Over the last 6 months I was trying to sell my Trooper, but have gotton new interest in upgrading it since they opened lots of new land for class 2 vehicles. And with the news of JMC; things are looking up possibly?

Thanks guys. If you run across anyone who is considering a Trooper; guide them my way for a great deal on a barely used one in excellent condition with lots of extras!

-Ken

Well; the economy has put me in the position of selling my Trooper. It's a 2008 model. I've changed a few things on it. It has a custom bikini top. Custom exhaust; windshield; fender flares on the front; reinforced cage; snorkle; RSI 5 point belt system; and new Maxxis Bighorn rear tires; also a firestick saftey flag. It has 220 miles on it; and has been used very little. I paid $11,900 and added $650 in aftermarket parts. I'm asking $9800 firm for it for a quick sale. I'm sorry to see it go; but I have too many irons in the fire. If you need more pics or info; e-mail me at [email protected] . I'm located in Bend; Oregon.

Oh; and the stock "Far East" rear tires go with it. Also the winch; and lightbar with lights as well as the "modified" engine cover/roll bar

-Ken

This is what I use to spray over scratches, marks and rusty welds on all Joyner vehicles. It is a near perfect match (when dry it's hard to see where you have sprayed) for the black painted areas and it's made in the States so should be available from stores such as the Home Depot. This product is so good that I have used it on bare metal without a primer on all my toe bars that we make with no problems at all. Two coats are needed for bare metal. Trust me on this one, you wont be disappointed. The product is Rust Master by Zynolyte and the link for more info is http://www.zynolyte.com/zynopages/rustmaster.asp For a large area like what Mopartist is doing, I would recommend you use one of Zynolytes three primers which you can find with the above link. Mopartist, one primer and two epoxy's should be enough for your job. The beauty is, it's so quick and simple with no mess. You know those areas where you can see rust coming through normally where the welds are above the floor or on the tray areas for Commandos & Renegades, don't use CRC use Rust Master because it stops rust, coats it and tidies the area up. Grab a can when you see them. Kinarfi, this is worth a mention on the Pinned: Parts & info for Troopers.

Cheers Mike.

Hey thanks for the info Brostar! I really appreciate it

I was just curios of you used to paint the bars. I used spray paint last time but i know that wont hold up. I thought about using a roll on bed liner if I could find some that will stick good, thought it would match up with the factory texture better.

I used a shot of self etching primer on the bare metal; and rustoleum over that although I'm sure it will scratch easily.

Well; I got some of the mods done this weekend. I ran out of steel before I got to the "X" cross braces behind the seats; but I think this will be a much improved cage than stock.

Oooops; I did have an accident and burned a hole through my rear fender as a glob of molten wire got under the leather cover I put over the resin. Boy does that stuff melt easy!