showa
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Posts posted by showa
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2008 Joyner T2
Maroon (?)
Black powder coated custom engine panel
Hush Thrush muffler
Brand New 27" Dirt Commander tires
K&N filter and pre-filter
Mobile 1 synthetic oil
Manual fuel pump switch
Body has couple wear marks from cover
One wheel has a small ding
346 miles (barely broke in)
$7600
Trailer not included.
Kurt
702 seven eight five 14 seventy 1
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Duralast 51-DL works for me....
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Look forward to seeing this come together...
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Mike,
Do you have a build on the new one posted anywhere yet ? You building it yourself?
Good luck on the sale... Your buggy looks/ sounds killer form the vids I've seen.....
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Sounds like a great time.... One of these trips I'll make it again....
Lenny, you should just do a new frame to mount the Joyner stuff in......
Then let me know how much a copy would cost...... Lol
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Once again the Jamboree gods have shat on me....
Due to a unforeseen family reunion pending and a possible daughter going to study abroad, I have determined that I am once again not able to attend.....
One of these years, one of these years......
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"IF" is the operative word until I pull into a parking spot for weekend........
Don't want to jink myself... I'm even afraid to make a reservation yet....
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And congrats on the sale...
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If I make it, you're welcome to thrash my T2...
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If it's the same as the sand spider 650, you might check on buggynews.com also...
Unless your already on there.....
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Rocmoc has to stick around....
He's a "SUPER moderator"...
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Let us know what you get into if the Troopers sell....
I'm always looking for something new to get into...
Good luck on the sale.
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I was always too busy as a kid getting in trouble and breaking stuff. My older brother is a great mechanic because of it... LOL.. Now I have the time to learn how to fix it after I break it....
Just need to convince wife to spend $$$ on a shop..... So I can quit working outside....
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Not sure if there is anything in this link that would help...
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Good deal... Kick butt!!!
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You know a few years ago there was some China buggy racing in so California and Northern Arizona.
I guess I need to search around some and see if they're still out there....
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I guess you'd want a pretty stout seat pan for that Dwarf.....
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Gotta agree with ya... I miss racing, wish they had a series like yours out here....
The BITD and Others are fairly expensive to run.
Hey, why not build a longer travel Dwarf for your series ????
Heh, talk about an E-ticket ride....
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Might measure the bolt spacing, back spacing and that might open up what models will fit....
Always could look at something like Paulson wheels who can make steel stock car type wheels to spec and prices aren't bad. Would make replacement easier...
There's other wheel MFG out there but I ran theirs on my Dwarf car and held up good....
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Since Lenny is busting my chops, I haven't made reservations yet due to stuff going on, but I am optimistic that I will be able to make it....
I really need a trip like this right now.......
I hope I can make it, haven't been off road for like two years, damn....
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The check valve is on the output side of the pump. I don't quite understand it but it seems the pump likes it.
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If your going to tear out all that and with the racing, I'd be looking at a true fuel cell to replace the tank.
And at least add a tip over valve to the tank vent line.
Lenny,
I haven't missed this years Jamboree yet....
Although I did miss a mini buggy meet in Logandale in February. Would have been fun running with some Joyner and Roketa and a bike engined buggy. ( buggynews.com)
Oh well, ill get my retirement schedule figured out some day.
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Choptop0130'
I would tend to trust Lenny on this one. Mine wouldn't even start to pump fuel to begin with so you may have a plugged or bad regulator.
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I believe my problems were caused first by contaminated fuel gumming up the first, tired fuel pump. Then the same stuff gummed up the second pump which I sent to kinarfi for autopsy. It also gummed up the Bosch which lead me to change fuel, fuel lines and filter. All appears good now. Never thought about changing the regulator but I'll keep Lenny's suggestion in mind.
As far as the check valve goes, I noted the it was non functional, and I had been having trouble starting it for awhile.
My thoughts on this are the check valve keeps some fuel in the pump for start up lubrication and possible minimal back pressure to help keep the pump primed.
When I installed the second pump without the valve, it was hard starting.
Installed the Bosch with an inline check valve and it started about the same until it gummed up. I also had installed the valve about 6 inches from the end of the valve and up-hill.
Changed fuel, lines, cleaned out pump with carb cleaner, installed valve as close to pump as could and it all works like a charm now, even after sitting for a few days. I also installed a direct power switch to the pump bypassing the standard wiring. I now turn on off pump with toggle like a race car and it runs constant when starting. I wanted to eliminate any chance of a relay problem causing more headaches. A separate toggle switch for the pump may not be for everyone but I am used to having to turn on off multiple switches to start/ stop a vehicle from racing.
I am not sure my thoughts are correct but it is working. Plus I can't imagine any manufacturers putting the valve on their pumps if it wasn't needed for some reason. Could save them money.
Anyways just thoughts from a non-mechanic, engineer, etc... Just my experience and thoughts.
Low Milage Joyner T2
in UTV Off-Road Classifieds - Buy & Sell
Posted
Heh, I know you guys are not easy on anyone.................