Quantcast
Jump to content

showa

Members
  • Posts

    121
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by showa

  1. I was always too busy as a kid getting in trouble and breaking stuff. My older brother is a great mechanic because of it... LOL.. Now I have the time to learn how to fix it after I break it....

    Just need to convince wife to spend $$$ on a shop..... So I can quit working outside....

  2. Might measure the bolt spacing, back spacing and that might open up what models will fit....

    Always could look at something like Paulson wheels who can make steel stock car type wheels to spec and prices aren't bad. Would make replacement easier...

    There's other wheel MFG out there but I ran theirs on my Dwarf car and held up good....

  3. If your going to tear out all that and with the racing, I'd be looking at a true fuel cell to replace the tank.

    And at least add a tip over valve to the tank vent line.

    Lenny,

    I haven't missed this years Jamboree yet....

    Although I did miss a mini buggy meet in Logandale in February. Would have been fun running with some Joyner and Roketa and a bike engined buggy. ( buggynews.com)

    Oh well, ill get my retirement schedule figured out some day.

  4. I believe my problems were caused first by contaminated fuel gumming up the first, tired fuel pump. Then the same stuff gummed up the second pump which I sent to kinarfi for autopsy. It also gummed up the Bosch which lead me to change fuel, fuel lines and filter. All appears good now. Never thought about changing the regulator but I'll keep Lenny's suggestion in mind.

    As far as the check valve goes, I noted the it was non functional, and I had been having trouble starting it for awhile.

    My thoughts on this are the check valve keeps some fuel in the pump for start up lubrication and possible minimal back pressure to help keep the pump primed.

    When I installed the second pump without the valve, it was hard starting.

    Installed the Bosch with an inline check valve and it started about the same until it gummed up. I also had installed the valve about 6 inches from the end of the valve and up-hill.

    Changed fuel, lines, cleaned out pump with carb cleaner, installed valve as close to pump as could and it all works like a charm now, even after sitting for a few days. I also installed a direct power switch to the pump bypassing the standard wiring. I now turn on off pump with toggle like a race car and it runs constant when starting. I wanted to eliminate any chance of a relay problem causing more headaches. A separate toggle switch for the pump may not be for everyone but I am used to having to turn on off multiple switches to start/ stop a vehicle from racing.

    I am not sure my thoughts are correct but it is working. Plus I can't imagine any manufacturers putting the valve on their pumps if it wasn't needed for some reason. Could save them money.

    Anyways just thoughts from a non-mechanic, engineer, etc... Just my experience and thoughts.

×
×
  • Create New...