ksimpsy

The diff gears barely hold up to the motor in it now. You go putting something bigger in it you might as well source new diffs. Or else your just asking to be stranded somewhere. If you are going to go that far with it you may as well sell it to me and build a Suzuki samerai or a jeep or something. Because what you will end up with is lenny's buggy. The only thing Joyner on it is the gas cap and vin plate

How much will you give me for it????????

Thanks for the replies. Reason number one is I really would prefer an automatic for the riding I do through mud and hills and whatever ealse I find so when and if the auto comes out from Joyner I bet it will be a pricey item and then I won't look so foolish. Secondly I just find the whole cherry unit a gutless finicky machine that is gonna need another starter soon (third one). Maybe I got a lemon but for me the idea was there just wasn't built properly. I can get a whole running car for under a thousand from my local wrecker possibly even a v6 from a Pontiac with direct port injection. Putting a motor and computer into a buggy is nothing new all you need to do is completely remove every pice of wire that Joyner put in and replace it with what you pull from the car I will also water proof all the electrical components that I can. Now back to the diffs, kinarfi what you say is true but the only thing is can you swap the 4wd actuator onto the rear diff? I talked to my mechanic buddy and he said aslong as the gears went helical it would be fine to run backwards. I can't remember for sure but I think they were straight cut right???

Thanks for the replies guys.

Ok, so here's my problem. My clutch is gone and for the price of a new one I could get a whole new motor and automatic tranny from a junk yard. The only thing is that when I mount a domestic engine and transaxle it is built opposite than the cherry so I am assuming that this will spin the drive shafts in the opposite direction too. So to remedy the unit going backwards when in drive I could flip the riffs over I have seen this done but not sure if they will be just as good. I can only find one issue of venting but that is easy to fix by plugging the hole and makin a new one. If any one has any input on my ideas that would be great thanks.

Kimpsy, here's a few more photos of the manifold flip. Start with this one and work you way to the end.

Kinarfi

I see you flipped the aluminum manifold but not the chrome tubes. did you look at flipping the whole thing back at the head? that is where i was looking at doing the flip and it seemd to me that the bolt pattern was reversible on the head but i could be wrong i never took it apart to try it.

thanks for the pics.

Hey Kinarfi, that looks good i had considered flipping the intake back when i got my unit new just never did it. did you flip the throttle body or was it not possible?

Kinarfi You used a test light but have you ran a volt meter to see the exact voltage to yhe green start wire? I usually hotshot it to the battery with a relay and use the green wire to trigger the relay and 99% of the time it cures the click click start problem.. the voltage has a long way to go up front then back to starter for such a small gauge wire

I have been having the same problem with the click click start I've tried a bigger battery which helped some then finally a new starter which works most of the time until the battery is down below 12v. I would like to try your relay method but am kinda dense when it comes to the electrical end of things especially relays.

are there any jambories in canada planned

like southern alberta or sw bc

where are you at

I have had that exact same problem. but I cleaned mine by backing into a river and let the water clean the clutch. I have been thinking of a way to fix the issue too, but it involves pulling the motor and building a plate to seal the bell housing off. then I am going to put 2, 1.5 inch ports on the top of the bell house for circulating air. I talked to a guy at a clutch shop and he said that the turning of the clutch inside would make its own convection type air flow so a fan shouldn't be needed but if it doesn't work a fan can always be added.

Kevin

I really didn't have a choice but to move the radiator. In its original position it was getting clogged with alot of grass and debris while riding. Living on the prairie alot of our riding areas are covered with tall grasses, etc ... I'd have to stop and clean off the radiator every 20 minutes or so.

Dandelion Fuzz really made me mad. hah

All I was trying to say is if the output is in the opposite direction as the cherry then you must turn the engine around and have the transmission at the back which may be difficult and quite uncomfortable having a engine as an arm rest.

Rotation isn't the problem. The problem is the that most front wheel drive car transmissions are a trans-axle meaning that there are clutches built into the trans output shaft to allow slipping of the two axles to the wheels for easier driving on hard surfaces. Our trans is a trans, direct drive output without any clutches and the slipping is in the diffs. The trans will have to be opened up and output shaft wielded solid or output shaft replaced with direct drive shaft / or something. Rotation is easy to overcome by turning the engine.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

How are you going to mount the engine backwards? I wasn't worried about the trans axle slipping like you say you just open it up and weld it. or if you get the right engine with a lot of aftermarket parts for the drag racing like a Honda or whatever the kids are racing these days a possi kit may be available.

Kevin

one thing i was wondering about was rotation direction Im not sure but depending on what side of the donor car the engine is on would change the way the rotation is in the final drive. this could be a problem for us but what i was figuring is if the engine/tranny setup is the same orientation as ours we should be ok right?

just something to chew on

Kevin

I was thinking a person could do it by using two shafts, one inside the other. this is the way all pto shafts are on farm equiptment and they work fine at high speeds. the tolerance between the two shafts are alot closer and are just a square or pentaganal shaft and once you grease it it takes up the slop if there was any. this should be easy to have built at any drive line shop. another thought about the steady bearing is that it keeps it from wobbeling in the tranmisson and maybe with that long of a unsupported shaft it may want to wobbel extra and snap the shaft in the tranny off like rocmoc had.

Just a thought

Kevin

It would be nice to have a one piece shaft. has anyone watched it while driving? It wobbles erratically i assume because of the poorly fitted slip yoke.

the trick to it is to pull out the small rubber plug on the back side of the caliper and there is a allen screw in the hole. you remove the screw and this allows the frame to move enough to get the pads out. sorry I cant remember how to tell you any better it has been a while since i did the brakes but if you take that screw out you wont have any trouble. maybe it is directly behind a post, when you do it watch the rubber dust seals to make sure they don't pop off.

Kevin

I'm thinking fuel pump I have a new one and will be changing it out I will let you guys know what I find.

Kevin

I would avoid using any corrugated tubing of any sort it just causes to much turbulence and creates a lack of power. think of a cold air intake you get for a pickup or car it eliminates the corrugated tube and has a smooth piece of pipe all the way to the throttle body. all I used was a 90 degree rubber elbow and a piece of straight pipe for the riser then put the filter on the end. $40

Kevin

the 2010 should have the new diffs right? that would be another thing to lean to along with the 4wd actuator. come to think of it for an extra $1000 bucks I would get the new one.

kevin

what clutch did you get, joyners or silverbullets?

I am happy with the setup I made its in the forum under http://www.utvboard.com/Power-Steering-Hydraulic-t828.html I wanted it for my tracks and it would dry steer them on pavement now I run 30 x 12 mudlites and it works excellent.

Are you sure it is travelling fully? Maybe try to bleed the slave cylinder, if it has air in it it could be not putting enugh pressure on the clutch.

just a thought

That is great Lenny, I will be doing that this winter. Do you think there is a way to put in a grease fitting so a person could pump water or anything out of the hub after they have been in moist spots?

Once again great work and thanks for sharing the info with us

Kevin

Were you planning on putting a switch on that or just let it run?

Kinarfi

I don't have the necessary skills to rig up a switch so I guess I'm gonna let it run.

Kevin

Thanks guys, I was needing a second fitting so I could use it for a pump for my surge tank. I will look into the banjo fittings.

Thanks again,

Kevin

can anyone tell me what fitting i need to get to go onto the pressure end of the pump? I got my new pumps the other day and the look identical just like we thought.