ksimpsy

Hey sorry im jumping in here and changing the main valve idea. But Lenny did touch on this a bit ago and it is a Surge tank and is used on 4stroke snowmobiles that are getting modded up with turbos. the main concept is the same because the sleds are going straight up or down for a long time. i talked to my mechanic buddy to make sure i got this right and it is the same as Lenny said. You come from the stock tank > filter > identical pump as stock > surge tank > filter if desired > stock pump > regulator > return line > surge tank > top of surge tank > return to main tank (basically overflow) this system keeps fuel to the engine at all times and keeps all the air out of main supply from the surge tank. any air gets back to the stock tank from the return line from the top of surge tank. this is a simple foolproof design that has been proven on sleds for a couple of years now and is the method i am going to use because it dosent require cutting apart my tank and depending on the size of tank i use i could gain probably another gallon of fuel storage. just thought i would throw this out there for all the other guys reading this thread that want a bit easier way to go.

Thanks, Kevin

(sorry about the hijacking)

Wow Kinarfi if you pull that off it would be cool and would show just how much time you have on your hands. I just got back from my local wreckers and found most all the main parts i need. I got a gear box from a small 1980's Toyota truck that i think will work fine could be a tight fit though. i also raided a '85 Honda Prelude for the pump, resivour and cooler as well as a tensioner and a belt. the pulley used on the pump is the same as the spare one on the trooper crank. i got all this for $50 that lowered my expected build cost to around $100. gettin better. im going to take a few pics later and try to get them on here soon.

I think im giving up on the electric way. the draw seems to be quite a bit and the fact that you should have a computer to control it (properly) is just one more thing to screw up (especially in mud and snow and rivers etc). regardless i have spent all morning searching all of Alberta and cant find one. my local wrecker said he has a small pump off an import i can have for $20 now that is talking my language! I'm not saying that the electric pump should be given up on but it to me is seeming more complicated as time goes on.

vehicles that i have discovered with the electric system:

Toyota MR2 '92-'95 ish

some Subaru models (not sure which)

new mini coopers

one place said the old Fiero's had this but i don't believe it and a few wreckers confirmed it.

new impalas

nobody quote me on this, all i have confirmed is the MR2 and the mini cooper, the impala may be a sort of electric-over system. the guy from eBay didn't mention about a controller box so I wonder if it is a different system yet.

figured out the pump problem except to do it will cost more than my budget will allow but i will try to find one cheaper. it is an electric pump that will be easy to install and wont rob any power.

its on ebay

electric pump on ebay

well back to searching

Are you running on a lot of hard surfaces?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Yah i usually end up going down gravel roads or hard trails for a few miles to get to the muskeg. i wish i had sand dunes to play in up here that seems like a blast to me.

Share more why you need zero toe. Zero toe or positive toe is normal for experienced black top racers. In the dirt, a little neg toe helps to stabilize the steering. Steering box does not have anything to do with camber. Bumper steer yes but that is a function of location/alignment of the steering rack with the pivot points to the spindle.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Zero toe is for track wear i don't want to needlessly scrub off my tracks. when you have a footprint that big, toe in or out will make for extra wear. i know camber is adjusted through the hiem joints on the a-arms i just mentioned it in passing. i need the tracks to sit level for the same reason. i have noticed the inside of the back tracks are wearing a fair bit more than the outside because of camber, too bad it isn't adjustable. so I'm not worried about proper bump steer or toe or camber because i just piss around in the mud and snow i cant do much racing wish i could though.

The simple/KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) thing to do is replace the factory steering wheel with a larger dia. steering wheel. Beyond that, I have a buddy with a high HP sandrail. He runs a small/tiny power steering unit the size of a box of Cracker Jacks that mounts inline with the steering shaft about a foot from the steering wheel. You still have to have the existing rack in place. Next time I see him I will get info & price. Also looking at Golf Cart electric units & ATV electric units but concerned if they would be durable enough given our size & weight. The Golf Cart & ATV units could be found used. My goal is around the $200 range.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

One of the reasons that I want to do a complete new system is to get rid of the factory rack. it has way too much play and is sorta scary. also with my tracks i need to have zero toe in and zero camber. with all the steering play it is extremely difficult to get zero toe. as for the electric over steering I to would be concerned if it would put out enough to turn the thing especially mine. I'm not saying it wont work for a unit with tires don't get me wrong there but I'm really interested in a overkill hydraulic system. call me old fashioned but when i do something I like it to be ridiculously overkill. The way I'm thinking is that this should only run around $300 or cheaper if i can get a good deal on the power steering units from the wreckers. i found that online i could get the steering gear and pump new for under $200 but of course i would need to get the pulleys and Pittman arm and I'm sure a bunch more. that's why i want to go to the wreckers.

thanks, Kevin

That's cool and all but the problem is that I am cheap and $1000 is $1200 Canadian and then the shipping will be another $150 ish. wayyy too much moola for me. And Lenny i also thought about a v belt and even thought of a hex belt and running off the backside of the belt. i have moved my rad up to my rack so now i have lots of room underneath so room shouldn't be an issue.

Thanks

Hey, has anybody done anything in building a power steering kit yet? i was looking around and figured a gear box style unit would be the easiest. i figured one from an older Ford Ranger or S10 would work and be easy to find at a wrecker. if you just came off the end of the Pittman arm with ball socket type ends out to each tie rod mount on the hub it would be simple and tough. I'm not sure if it would have enough travel to turn tight enough but you could change that with the length of the Pittman arm. the pump from the same vehicle would work as well because you can get them with the reservoir built in. the trick for mounting it and making the belt run in the proper direction would be a challenge but should be doable. anything is with a welder and a torch right? i would appreciate any ideas or somebody to tell me it just plain wont work. I have no idea I'm just tired of turning these tracks.

Thanks Kevin

I have the opposite issue, my gauge is pinned full pressure as soon as it comes off idle but while idling it is at normal pressure just vibrates a lot. i assume the sender unit is cheap or doesn't take to mud and water well I'm not overly concerned with mine. if yours is consistently low or doesnt act funny i would check it with a mechanical gauge just to be safe.

sorry not much help.

Hey guys I would just like to add that you make sure to check the bottom coupling on the steering box because on mine it did the same thing as the upper. i would imagine you all will but cant hurt to say it.