ksimpsy

Why does your rad look so different on the front? Did you add some kind of metal mesh to it? Also, which way do you have your fan going? Blowing THROUGH the rad or PULLING air through it?

I have door screen over the front to keep out mud and bugs. the fan is pulling right now but i reverse the wires for winter, it actually works OK for a heater. Do you not have trouble pulling coolant from the overflow tank when the unit cools? i couldn't get mine to suck so i had to move the tank.

Obviously if the oil is becoming VERY hot it will be hard to keep oil pressure, as the oil will become less viscous. My temp gauge usually shows normal even after prolonged rides (my rad is moved though) and my oil pressure shows low (almost 0 ) with the engine at idle when it is at operating temp. I have checked the oil time and time again, and its always at the perfect amount, so I have a feeling the gauges on these are not that accurate. Once I idle up the engine past 1500 oil temp comes back up to operating range (30-40psi)

I really really wish I knew how to post pictures on the board. The simple fix is a rad relocation (as many here have already done) the hard part is creating custom braces to protect the rad incase of a roll-over. Im still in the process of making that. I have mounted my rad about half-way up the rear roll-cage and have not had issues (YET) with the water pump being unable to push fluid through the extra plumbing and up to the higher rad. The rad sits roughly where the drivers head would be for height.

I just built a roof over my rad when I moved it. I figure it should be fine considering it is below the roll bars for the most part.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2339851360104844937yxWjbS

I have noticed that the light comes on after it gets washed or wet it will go away on mine after it dries out. I would like to get a whole different set of warning lights and switches that are more weather proof.

the temp sending unit reads 20-30 C hotter than it actually is. the oil pressure sounds like mine before. i put it to the sending unit because now i have waaayyyy to much oil pressure. i think the motors on these things is the last of our worries.

Kevin

I have had this problem I even put a 650cca battery in but what i had to do is take a metal object (pry bar) and jump the 2 posts on the starter. just a bump will do it then try the key it should work. Make sure you don't touch the bar to anything like the intake, only the main power and the solenoid wire. there will be sparks and im sure you guys figure im a dummy but what i have found is that when the starter sits for awhile (especially if your in mud and water) it sticks the brushes and wont do anything but for some reason a good solid 12V to the solenoid will jar it loose.

Kevin

I dont blame you for being upset and I agree with you. At the same time I think things will get better and even though we are in MO I would be glad to help you or anyone else any way that I can. You can PM me here, email me at [email protected], or call me at 573-478-3203. Rusty. By the way, I can get your parts ordered and get them shipped straight to you from the factory.

Even to Canada???

thanks guys

can anyone tell me the exact thickness of the pad material when the pads are brand new?

thanks, Kevin

if a person had the bellhouse completely sealed off would the clutch run too hot or does it even NEED vents? I was thinking of the clutch in my old chevy pickup and it is pretty much sealed off it seems to work.

Yeah, if you do as Lenny says you should have lots but I'm not sure if the small allen screw below the fill hole is the full level hole, that is what I am currently running mine at.

I agree, the e-brake is handy and it seems to work way better and it takes less pressure. maybe the leverage on the brake pedal needs to be changed to give a person more leverage on the cylinders. It seems if you really stand on the pedal the unit stops "OK".

I just found a shop in Red Deer that re-pads brakes I told him my trouble and he said that he has had lots of guys with the same trouble and with the pad material they have the brakes last alot longer.

Am I the only one that finds the brake pads to be wearing extremely fast? I am already almost on the second set, (900km's) I hardly use the things because i gear down to slow speed. all i can think is that in the mud i should have the slotted rotors to help the mud get out. maybe i should just see if i can find a place to re-pad brakes not sure if anybody does this anymore. A side question is if everyone with bigger tires has the feeling that you need to stand on the brakes just to slow it down. The brakes just seem weak to me or maybe this has something to do with the pads wearing.

Kevin

hey buffalocreek, what did the replacement clutch cost?

the drive line goes through off to the side doesn't it? i was just planning on sealing around the bellhousing where the light piece of tin is between the motor. I know around the starter has a big hole too.

rocmoc did Daven give you an idea on price?

Kevin

rocmoc, is this clutch beefier with better friction pads and a stronger holding pressure?

thanks, Kevin

i havnt had any problems but i was in a mud hole and was playing in it and i filled it up full of mud and had to pull it and clean it up but i put a new one in it and just put the old one up it was in good shape though. that dang driveling goes right through the bellhousing and when your in mud it sucks it right up and filles it up with it.

I just got back from a weekend trip and had a bit of clutch issues. Firstly, I got into a really tight spot and smoked it a little bit but not bad I just think that if we had a stronger clutch unit I wouldn't have had a problem. this will really be a concern with more torque. secondly I was riding in a bunch of clay mud type holes and after a while i noticed that i couldn't got the trooper into gear because it wouldn't stop turning so i had to shut the unit off to change between forward and reverse. so this cut my day short and I had to return to camp to consume some beers. but on my way i stopped in the river to wash off and as usual i drive in so the water is almost over the rockers and leave the trooper running. after cleaning up I left the river and carried on but all of a sudden my clutch worked like new. It is obvious now that in all the mud I packed the pads full of mud and the river cleaned it up. I sure wish I knew this before I headed back to camp.

My idea for a solution would be to seal off the bellhousing and put 2 snorkels on it to circulate air to keep the clutch cool and dry.

sorry about the long story I will try to get pictures of my predicaments.

Yah my bad, I looked at my spare bearing and it is ball type guess i got mixed up with one of the other wheels I've done.

No adjustments on th rear wheel bearings. It's nothing more then a double roller bearing not more then about 2" long total. I'm amazed that it holds up at all. It just has no width to it. The stress on the bearing has to be way up there and a bearings life span is directly related to the load put on it so I don't expect them to last real long. Also check the thread "Rear wheel misalignment issues" (same Joyner forum). There are other things that can make the back wheels loose.

Lenny

Really? there not taperd wheel bearings like the front?

How about PayPal for the money?

sign me up! I haven't had mine blow up but $200 is cheap considering the cost of a new diff.

oh, steel makes more sense they just looked plastic to me. shows how much attention I pay to that area, it's behind me i guess.

Excellent work, I cant even think of a question that you didn't already answer.

Oh wait, on the swing arm pivots when you put a larger bolt in, did you just drill out the plastic bushings?

Kevin

I talked to Jeff my mechanic buddy that's doing the turbo kit today and learned some interesting stuff. he has hooked up a new control box to the trooper and said by adjusting that he can make the unit run much better, the box runs about $400 i am assuming that is all that the new "chips" are doing. he also said that the exhaust manifold is completely wrong (which i covered earlier) but he said that 2 of the manifold ports were partially covered by the flange. this is something we should all have a look at to make sure it's not the same on ours. I think I talked him into building headers for the trooper that we could get even if we didn't want to turbo but it would help out on the bottom end lots. He is also going to build a new intake that is properly matched to the motor. he said he has a program to figure out dimensions and lengths to get the proper velocity for peak performance. this intake could also be used without the turbo. after picking his brain for a bit i got an approximate price out of him for the turbo kit. he figured around $2300 unless it needs an intercooler. the price to do headers intake and a computer would be around $1600 ish so for a weee bit more you get boost. DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THESE PRICES IT COULD BE MORE WHEN IT IS ALL SAID AND DONE. also installation on top of course but this gives you a rough idea and i will bet money it will be the best kit out for these things because like I said that's all this guy does is boost stuff and has it figured out so you have virtually no lag. the kit will still be a while but if you can wait it will be worth it. I'm going to try to get a video when it is up and running so you can all see it preform.

I was looking at the air intake and it looks like it could be flipped over so the throttle body is on top at the front then you could just put the air filter straight on the throttle body (or modify your snorkel) eliminating the corrugated rubber hose they have. I also wonder if the ports are mismatched on the intake side to.

I would like to hear how someone else like it or not before I spend 900.00 can you tell a big difference in it No Limits as one 13hp to rear wheel for 899.00 I don't see that 13hp would make a difference could you even feel 13hp

13 hp ontop of 85 is significant but what these things really need is torque, that is more usefull than HP. torque is what you feel.