mixfixdave

You can ground the big black (-) wire to the frame. Mine had short leads and I just extended the red (+) to the winch power.

Wiring is the easy part…
Big red and black wires go to your winch power connections (batt + -).
Then the orange wire from the ECU connects to a switched 12v source.
All the other wires are unused.
Turn it on (12vdc+ to orange wire) then give it 5 seconds and you will be turning with one finger!

You must have the control unit, ECM/ECU whatever they want to call it. It’s connected to the column with a short bundle of wires.

I am not certain…but other side by sides employ EPS, so I think it will work with a stator.

U joints are moog or precision 391

So the existing shaft on my rack fit perfectly into the shaft on the Versa column I bought.
It had a u-joint that I just welded solid.

ECU

The ECU is just for the power steering…controls the electric motor/assist that is built into the column. Just follow the short wiring harness.
You keep your rack and maybe some of the original shaft (I did), the EPS just gives you some assist.
It’s also a great upgrade for an old muscle car because no hydraulics are necessary.

My trooper square filter cross references to these…sorry it’s not helpful for you, but I’ll post it from my notes.

2009 trooper T4 air filter

Sii-1109111. IGG.
7.5" x 8"
Fram ca1047. ?ca-7764
Purolator... A35779
Wix 49070

Grandkids are gonna have a blast!

It’s relatively simple…but I don’t know if I’d make it too comfy for the grandkids

You can use an electric column out of a 2009 Nissan Versa (or other cars COROLLA, Prius, Kia, cube, Yaris)…easy to find a remove in the junkyard, don’t even have to get under the car! Get the whole thing including the steering wheel and ECU (computer).
I had to weld on a piece of angle iron to get it mounted, but the steering shaft actually fit perfectly onto my 2009 T4 rack.
Connect + and - to the winch battery connections and the third wire to a switched 12v source, and you can turn that beast with one finger.
Cost me $125 and I have been wheeling the Tennessee rocks and mud for years on 30” tires without any issues!
I’ve got a post on here somewhere about it…Joyner trooper power steering.

Here it is...from my Alibaba app.
Allen Cheng

I have ordered front coil over shocks and new ball joints from China on alibaba.
Let me find the name/contact for you.

Long story short , 2009 Joyner trooper 1100 , 2300kms 
When you turn the key the gauges don't cycle, can't hear pump and fan doesn't turn on . Headlights work and turns over no problem . Doesn't even attempt to fire.  Fueses are good not sure about relays. 
Worked fine for a little half hour run , tried to start it a couple hours later and this happened. 
 
Where do I start checking 

Hopefully nothing is busted. Maybe the retaining clip and any balls are inside the boot. Those retaining clips inside the cv can pop out.

Here they are...

https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/replacement-steering-rack-boot-for-16-2185-86-ea.html

I found some steering rack and pinion boots that work for the Trooper 1100!
Post up if you are looking.

Warn is definitely the best!
I’ve tried the Chinese wenches and Traveller from TSC, but the warn is great.

It’s working great for me...power column out of a Nissan Versa...two wire hookup and a little bit of fab.

I’m thinking if the locker pin is pulled into the diff enough that you can’t get the cable out, then you need to remove the diff and open it up.
Happened to me once, locker wouldn’t engage, but the problem was the locker mechanism/fork inside the differential was bent and off the locker ring. I straightened it and it’s been fine for years.
Also had some loose ring gear bolts and did the Lenny upgrade while I had it apart.
Here’s a pic of the locker fork and ring

I am wondering about the fuel pump relay. The previous owner bypassed the pump and fan relays and hotwired them to toggle switches. This was because he had problems with corrosion in the  fuse box. In my review of the ECU and injector system I see the injectors are wired to the pump relay. I don't understand why. I don't know if there is a way to test the relay or the circuit. Any ideas?
 
PS, I am getting good pressure at the injector rail so I know the pump and pressure regulator are doing their jobs.

Have you tried swapping the engine, fuel pump and fan relays...may help eliminate a bad relay?

I would check both of the fuse blocks, dirt can get in the contacts of the fuses and cause problems. Clean them out and make sure they aren’t deformed. Can use small flat blade screwdriver or needle nosed pliers to bend them some.
I use dielectric grease to keep the crud out, but depending on how you wheel the beast, they need attention from time to time.
I haven’t had problems with the plastic (molex style) in-line connections of the wiring harness, but I did clean them and apply grease when I bought it years ago.

Thanks Grizz Country.
Once upon a time, Silverbullett had some shims for those wheel bearings. I have replaced mine with the SKF as well (twice, 7k miles) but didn’t use any shims. Just a small bit of play.