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mixfixdave last won the day on December 14 2020

mixfixdave had the most liked content!

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About mixfixdave

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 03/21/1968
  • Location Murfreesboro, TN, United States

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  • UTV Brand
    2009 Joyner Trooper T4

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  1. Hopefully nothing is busted. Maybe the retaining clip and any balls are inside the boot. Those retaining clips inside the cv can pop out.
  2. Here they are... https://dunebuggywarehouse.com/replacement-steering-rack-boot-for-16-2185-86-ea.html
  3. I found some steering rack and pinion boots that work for the Trooper 1100! Post up if you are looking.
  4. Warn is definitely the best! I’ve tried the Chinese wenches and Traveller from TSC, but the warn is great.
  5. It’s working great for me...power column out of a Nissan Versa...two wire hookup and a little bit of fab.
  6. I’m thinking if the locker pin is pulled into the diff enough that you can’t get the cable out, then you need to remove the diff and open it up. Happened to me once, locker wouldn’t engage, but the problem was the locker mechanism/fork inside the differential was bent and off the locker ring. I straightened it and it’s been fine for years. Also had some loose ring gear bolts and did the Lenny upgrade while I had it apart. Here’s a pic of the locker fork and ring[emoji16]
  7. Make certain a toggle switch or wiring is not the problem. Especially if the switches aren’t waterproof. Connect a voltmeter and tap/jiggle switches and wiring to see if anything seems twitchy. I’d check voltages or resistance all the way to the pump and ECU. If the previous owner did electrical mods, I’d check them close.
  8. Have you tried swapping the engine, fuel pump and fan relays...may help eliminate a bad relay?
  9. I would check both of the fuse blocks, dirt can get in the contacts of the fuses and cause problems. Clean them out and make sure they aren’t deformed. Can use small flat blade screwdriver or needle nosed pliers to bend them some. I use dielectric grease to keep the crud out, but depending on how you wheel the beast, they need attention from time to time. I haven’t had problems with the plastic (molex style) in-line connections of the wiring harness, but I did clean them and apply grease when I bought it years ago.
  10. Thanks Grizz Country. Once upon a time, Silverbullett had some shims for those wheel bearings. I have replaced mine with the SKF as well (twice, 7k miles) but didn’t use any shims. Just a small bit of play.
  11. I still have some used ball joints and spare parts that I keep in my tool box, but I will eventually need a source for new ones. Hoping these can am lower ones will work. Pretty stiff competition out there...My T4 is in the background.
  12. Check this out...looks like cam am lower joints are close. I’m trying to find out exactly what modification has to be done to the knuckle. https://www.ebay.com/itm/153924040452
  13. Can you describe what drilling you had to do to the knuckle? I’m not sure what you mean by “teem/drill”...
  14. Check this out... Looks like Moose May have a solution. 2008 Journey Trooper T2 Aftermarket suspension parts https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=21400&share_tid=6463&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eutvboard%2Ecom%2F&share_type=t&link_source=app
  15. I appreciate the info.  Now I have something to work with.

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