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Gerald Clarendon Sr

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Gerald Clarendon Sr last won the day on August 18 2018

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About Gerald Clarendon Sr

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  1. Travis, some of the Kawasaki engines are really great and long lived. I have their 2 cylinder engine on a Ferris Zero turn mower, water cooled version. 26 HP don't remember the displacement but it's 13 years old now with 2105 hours on it. So far no problems and I should not say that because now it will explode. Anyway, changing oil and filter every 50 to 75 hours over its life I'm sure has contributed to its longevity. Putting in new spark plugs every year or 2 helps with the starting. I should check the valve adjustment too but will try to remember to get to that this winter. GC
  2. If you own a 4000 or 4010 Mule, and perhaps others that are of the 2cylinder type, there is an ignition -coil for each cylinder. When one of them dies, and they must because there seem to be a lot of them sold through the internet and that coil is used on several makes of engines, then your DFI light will not go out after the engine is started which indicates that you have a problem. If it's the coil then you are running on one cylinder and the power you now have is enough to get you back home, the limp home mode. The # 1 coil is the one in front and isn't bad to get to but the #2 coil is the
  3. Might doesn't make right but it beats whatever's in 2nd place. I think my folks did spend their money on my education wisely. It taught me to think. My idea of spreading open the bracket that holds the pin was correct. Why the parts diagram doesn't show the connecting pin separately is because it is part of the cable and not a separate part. For those of you who had the same problem as I trying to replace the hood release cable, the bracket which is a welded part of the release latch mechanism is like a square "U" with a hole drilled through it to accept the pin. On one side of the bracket is
  4. It just dawned on me that the welded on clip on the release bar that holds the pin has a slot cut in it and perhaps if I stick a bar/screwdriver in the slot and pry on it to open some it may release the pin enough to allow the pin to slide out and when reinstalling a new cable just insert the pin and crimp the slot closed enough to hold the pin from falling out. I'm going to give that a try and also go ahead and order a new cable and see if a pin comes with it. It's got to be something simple. Kawasaki couldn't have made it impossible but then I don't think like Japanese engineer. I do hold a
  5. I just found your post giving the site for the manuals and the exploded parts diagram.The #554 snap pin that's shown in the diagram is connected to the differential shift cable. That's a regular hairpin type retainer that they use throughout the machine. The is no such number as a #50410 that I could find. There is, however, number 54010 for the hood cable which doesn't show what happens at the end of the cable where the pin should be. You may have just reversed the numbers. The manual just tells you how to open the hood. All good suggestions but have been there. If there was a Kawasaki dealer
  6. I have the complete manuals from Kawasaki for the Mule and have read all applicable topics and they really say nothing about how to remove the cable nor the pin. They just tell you how to adjust the cable length and that you need to remove basically the whole front end just to get to it. There's a welded box section up near the dash that the cable has to go through and there's a nut on the backside which holds the cable knob end in place. Good luck getting to that nut, I did and it's loose now but pulling the cable through depends on getting the pin out. It should look like a straight forward
  7. Travis, I'll give that a try in the morning and I'll take a picture too. I tried tapping on the pin with a punch and hammer and it didn't want to budge. I'll check to see if they've peened it over to keep it from coming out. Interesting that the parts diagrams don't list the pin separately, perhaps it comes with the replacement cable. I take it you've been inside one of these before. Kawasaki sure has a way of making it hard on anyone working on one of these. The rear ignition-coil is another choice item to replace. You need to be a dwarf with a deformed arm. Thanks for your help, Gerry C
  8. I have a 2012 Kawasaki 4000 Mule and the hood release cable is frozen and will not move. I want to replace the cable and have removed the fenders, hood, cargo box to access the cable. I finally had to remove the plastic dash far enough away so I could get a wrench on the nut holding the cable release knob in place. That's a lot of fun. I cannot remove the pin holding the cable to the release bar mechanism. Is that a force fit pin or what. There are no keepers holding it in place. Any suggestions on how to get the cable out? I can see why the previous owner never fixed it as you have to remove

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