CrawlnT2
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Posts posted by CrawlnT2
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What size shocks are you running on the front?
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Thanks! You know I was thinking you could almost make what I am doing into a bolt on kit to mass market. My only concern is that Joyners are hand built and all have slightly different angles. Well, either way if it works out to be a sucess I will help anyone on this forum if they want to take it on. I will be able to take out 90% of the guess work. I have been making templates of all of the tabs I have been making with exception to the diff lowering. If I was to do that again I would probably tackle it a little differently. Plus, that is pretty straight forward.
Definitly would love some help with mine. I will be tackling this same project very soon. Just need to find shocks front and rear.
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I think that silverbullet owes us an explanation to this situation! Reliable dealer network may need some updating! IMO
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One of my goals in lowering my front diff was to hopefully not have to use limiting straps with my 8.5 inch shocks. Unfortunately, lowering my diff did not allow me to achieve this. So, I started on new shock hoops for the front. I cannibalized tubes from the rear dump bed that I removed. The angle was exactly what I needed, and I don't have an 1.5 inch die for my bender. One challenge I ran into was welding the tube--its super thin. I am not a great welder and even with my 110 vold welder it was hard not to burn through. I am only set up for flux core wire. If I was using Co2 it probably would have been much easier. I cut the tube that the upper shock mount bolts to, cutting straight down just inside the original shock mount bolt hole and removed that section of tube. The new shock hoop runs about 2 inches over the top of the tube I just mentioned. One end is welded to the top middle frame and the other is welded to the front bumper tube. then, I tied it back in to the cut section of tube and original shock bracket using 3/16 inch plate steel--it is not going anywhere. I will have to make some holes in the hood to accomodate the new hoops. They will probably stick out about 1 inch. If I don't booger it up, it should look really cool. Now, my shocks will extend right to my max limit--no limiting straps needed. At full compression the shock has about 1/2 inch left on the shaft.
My front suspension travel is now just over 12 inches. I can't get anymore with out different CV's. My up travel is limited by the ball joints. After being done, I would bet that my original suspension travel was no more than 8-9 inches stock. In stock form my T2 rested with maybe 1 inch of droop. Now, it is like 4-5 inches of droop at original ride height. Another added benifit is the shock is at a better angle than stock--more inline with the travel of the A-arms. I can't wait to take it to Moab!
I was thinking about doing shock hoops on mine. This is interesting. I cant wait to see your finished product.
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Does anyone know the length of the splines on the front driveshaft?
Why? I would like to move my front diff forward some & I don't want to run out of driveshaft. I lowered my front diff to increase my droop and to hopefully fit 8.5 inch shocks under the hood without needing limiting straps. After lowering my front diff and cycling the suspension I got a lot of bind due to the fact that as the suspension cycles lower & lower, the front CV's move forward also. This compound angle causes the CV boots to bind badly (once I welded in the diff I was probably a 1/4 inch aft of factory placement). So, I realized if I want to maximize my droop I will need to probaly move the front diff at least 1 inch to 1.5 inches forward of factory placement.
I am not sure how Lenny achieved 14.5 inches of travel in the front suspension. When done, I will be lucky to get 12. With 30 inch tires, the top of my tire is able to reach about 1/4 inch past the tube to which the front fender bolts to. I am limited anymore by the ball joints. So, down travel is all I have left to be able to achieve over 12 inches of travel and like I said, my CV boots bind at about 11 to 12 inches due to the compound angle of the shaft.
Now, everybody scoffed at the price of the Gorilla Axles, but I am calling them today to see what they can do for me. I estimate my axles bind at about 27 degrees. Crawlin T2 said the Gorilla Axles will do 40 degrees. Add in I will be able to turn sharper as well and....
Please don't forget to answer my driveshaft question if you know the answer.
Thanks,
Paul
P.S. I am taking pictures as I go.
I dont know the length. I would say a diveline shop should beable to make your current drive shaft longer. imo
I plan on doing this same mod to my t2. Take lots of pics!
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I think it was someone on here that said guys in russia are crazy with there Joyner's!
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The same kit will work for both the front and the rear. There is a differance but the kits cover that. You would need two kits.
Lenny
Thanks lenny. Jarred do you know the dealer that sold the unit? I dont see that being a dealers fault.
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^^ That's messed up! Lenny I'm going to buy that Diff fix just curious if you have a front kit?
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Ha ha. Yea it did. Has anyone had problems with their front diffs? Thinking about taking it out and upgrading it to!
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What does it say on the heads of the bolts? Should say something like 8.8 or 12.9. If it's 8.8, the bolts were not upgraded. Is there any signs of the diff being re-shimmed for proper running clearances or did the whole thing just feel sloppy?
Lenny
The bolts were equivalent to grade 5. Im replacing those bolts with bolts that have about a half inch shoulder. Im also going to re-tap the holes for 3/8 size bolts that are 12.9.
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Are those 2011 Troppers?
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Will have DYNO test result Thursday.
Dyno jet or Dyno dynamics?
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I run 31x10.5-15 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw tires and my top speed is still probably 60-65. It was probably 75 with the stock diff gearing.
Lenny
That diff gearing makes a big difference cause my top speed is somewhere around 65-70 On 28.5/12/14. I think it may be to low being that I only have 28.5 tires.
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Back in the saddle again!
The Trooper was inspected yesterday. After making sure everything worked I took it in, the inspector looked at the engine number, the Vin # and that was it. Well, at least everything is legal.
Here’s what been done so far:
Change the front-end Heim joints and ball joints to domestic parts. This meant cutting the old parts out and fabricating new steering arms and related parts.
Replace the left front CV bearing cage
Replace the CV Boots
Fabricate new A arm mounts.
Replace the steering rack to make steering more positive. NOTE: a lot of the slop in the steering is in the rods connecting the steering wheel and the rack. Putting a bolt through these pieces helps a bunch.
Replace the front shocks with KONI Series 30 shocks.
Replace front shock springs.
Fabricate new fenders/mounts all the way around.
Re-align the right rear swing arm. It ended up with about 2 ½ inches of negative camber.
Replace the front turn signals.
Replace the front headlights.
Replace the HID lights on the light bar.
Replace the mirrors both sides.
Replace a section of the roll cage.
Replace the roll cage padding
Wire around the fuse box to power the fan.
Straighten various pieces as I discover they’re bent.
So far this project has cost about $2500.00 most of it in fabrication cost.
If you are interested I posted pictures on Webshots under Gumball Trooper Rebuild. They show where I am at as of today. There’s still work to be done, wiring the HIDs, tightening everything, etc. http://rides.webshots.com/album/579706184IoYsVH
Many thanks to those that helped me get back on the road, Jarrad, Lenny, Brostar and Kinarfi. It’s great to be a part of this group.
Gumball
I like how you changed the front end to domestic parts. Looks much more beefy. I have already changed my heims out but Im interested in what you did to the tie rod ends and ball joints on the outer a-arm. Can you make a close up picture of that. I couldnt find a pic in your gallery that showed it well.
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Cool. What is the top speed of yours after the gears? What size tires are u running?
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A super charger is going to give a lot better low RPM torque for rock crawling. You definetely want to use an aftercooler and the engine needs to have the very mismatched prots cleaned up. Lowering the compression is also necessary. And for rock crawling I would go to the renegade diff gearing. Contact Jarrad at No Limit Motorsports about this.
Lenny
I have already talked to him today. Had to order up two outer tie rod ends and rear axel that I broke this past weekend. We touched on the topic of superchargers today said that you have alot of torque. Do you have renegade gearing?
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Has anyone else run across this? At the bottom of his home page says rjs supercharge kits for joyner buggies but has listed 1100cc fi trooper. Being that I like rock crawling may be a good choice. what do yall thing? www.rjssuperchargers.com
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It's nothing you guys need to worry about. I mention it only because you can sort of see the process I went through to find a problem. The Edis 36-1 timing wheel is something I added to provide a timing signal for the megasquirt. What caused the problem has got to be about as rare as it gets. Sorry Rocmoc, don't use a lot of RPMs anymore, but I still wondered for a while if I damaged my engine. I have my RPM limit set at 5500 in the computer. Torque is good.
Lenny
What computer are you running?
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Good news! Parts availability has been the only real concern I have ever had with my T2.
Same here! Just wish their was more aftermarket stuff for them.
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I'll have to work something up when I get a chance.
Lenny
Thanks Lenny. I plan on trying your setup for now if I deside that its not enough Im going to call Gorilla.
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I'm getting the 14-1/2" of travel front and rear with the stock CVs. However I am right at the point of them binding. If I even went another 1/4-3/8" either direction, they would bind. I have not had any problems with the CVs and I have now been running the longer travel for probably a year now and I push the full travel of my suspension all the time. Rocmoc is right,they are a concern. You would want to be very careful if you set up like Flatbed or I am. It does require front frame and rear swingarm mods along with dropping the rear diff.
Lenny
I talked to gorilla he said that he could make axles for us that can with stand a 40 degree angle. Their axles are made of 4340 chromoly. The only problem is cost, coming in at 550 an axle. That is 100 dollars above the axles for the other utvs.
Lenny do you have a list of everything you did to reach 14 1/2 of travel? I want to show my dealer.
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Main upgrade would be the CV Joints. Need something like they use on the ATV Mud lift kits. The stock suspension will take more travel but the CV Joints will not, They are the current limiting factor. Also the upgraded CV Joint would allow a tighter turning radius.
rocmoc n AZ/Mexico
Thanks for the info. A tighter turning radius would be nice. I believe Gorilla axle is who makes most of those axles for atv/utv with long travel and lift kits. Im going to call them today.
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Just saw this on Facebook, the video is good and fun to watch.
My neighbor has one and it is so fast!! It is the badest side by side yet! imo
Torquer Cam
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum
Posted
Yes please!! I need a set.