bmoody4550

Hi Trace, I looked for that wire as well and never found anything. My problem ended up being the pins going into the end with the yellow on it were so thin they were no longer making contact. I was able to use the alternator end to still plug into the alternator but spliced in a new connector. All has been good since. If you need the connector on the alternator side, best bet might be to figure out which cars have that alternator and head to the junk yard and see if you can find the connector. Chaper than buying it new I am sure.

Here is a picture of my connection. Maybe the colors will make sense for you. Good luck. Bill

I think on my machine I ran into the problem where the color of the wires changed. I had replaced the regulator as well but was just able to plug it in. do you not have a connector or just loose wires?? My issue was the connector plug up by the alternator (not on the alternator). The pins were so small they were not making contact anymore within the connector to be able to charge the battery. Looks like three wires go to the alternator. You should be able to check continuity between the alternator and the wires you have at the regulator. I can take a look when I am home to see if any colors are visible on my machine.

I need some new seats because mine just rusted in half. Anyone know where I can get alternative seats that will be sized and attach the same way?? Thanks Bill

I finally got back to this and the alternator was fine, regulator fine and battery fine. So Kenfain you were right about the cables. But it wasn't the actual wires. It was actually the connector were the pigtail comes off of the alternator was not making a good connection. My home remedy of aluminum foil solved the problem. Now I am looking for a replacement shifter and cables that don't break the bank.

I think I got the alternator for less than $40 at NAPA. If it is shit I will bring it back to them. I think the guy will take care of me even though it has been 6 months.

That is my easiest fix at that moment Thanks

I didn't throw away the old regulator so I plugged that back in and got no battery light on the dash but also not charging the battery. When i plugged the new regulator in I got the red light but still not getting charged. So I say that is working. Cables have a the nice cable covering over them and would hate to take that off at this point. I will check the continuity off the wires from the alternator. I wonder if the old regulator toasted my new alternator?? May pull that off and take it in to Autozone to have them test it. Thanks

Mostly woods in the machines future. Now onto figuring out what is wrong with the charging system. Another fun weekend. Thanks

Hello, I have changed the battery , alternator and the regulator. I have the red battery light on indicating it is not charging. Is there something else that could be the problem to my battery not charging?? Thanks Bill

Well I have power to the switch and down to the actuator. I went to take out the actuator unit and when I took out the screw through the firewall it backed out but was against the wall so i couldn't move it to remove it.(up against the firewall). But as I was looking at it, I must have brushed up and turned the tire which turned the other tire. The pin must have come out allowing the 4wd. which I am happy with. I put the two screws back in and then lost the 4wd. I backed off the screw coming through the firewall and must be enough to allow it to go back in 4wd. I guess the short story is the actuator is toast but I can go in and out of 4wd by turning the screw. Anyone with more thoughts on this subject? Thanks Bill

From other posts I have seen sounds like there should be power to the actuator when the switch is in the 2wd position and no power in the 4wd position. Is this correct? Default position should be 4wd? If I do take off the actuator to look at it closer is there parts going to go flying (springs ect)? Would you suggest takling the hood off to be able to see from above? Hood is on now and I would try working on it from the wheel well. Will I need anything new like gaskets to be able to re-install? Thanks Bill

Ok thanks for your response. If I can get to 4wd I'll be happy

Hey there, What process did you go through to figure out you needed a new part? I have a 2006 650 Commando and 4wd is not engaging. I pushed the button on the dash. That is the extent of my checking out what the problem is so far. I realized the 4wd wasn't working when I went to move the machine and got stuck in a little bit of snow and the front wheels were not moving. I am still re-habing the machine and this would be the next on the list. Thanks for any info.

Yes, I got my machine running without a transmission issue, have all gears now. Gears had been moved manually so I had to figure out how to get them back in sync with the actual shifting lever. I don't have any pictures of the linkage right now. Maybe this weekend I will have time to take a couple for you. Bill

I recently got a 2006 Joyner 650cc Commando. It was not running when i got it. I put a new fuel pump and alternator and is up and running. My problem is when I originally got it started it seemed I didn't have 1st gear. I was able to get it moving from 2nd and was sure I got it into 3rd. In my process of diagnosing the first gear issue and I realize I have first gear because it is where I thought 3rd gear was. But now I don't seem to have 3rd or 4th gear. The shifter itself seems sloppy and needs a little rehab if that is possible. Replacement available? Cables are worn so I don't know if they have too much play to properly shift. Can't seem to find any cables available to replace. Can someone tell me which cable should be first and second and 3rd and 4th? One is black and the other is red. Ultimately it may be a transmission problem internally. As long as I have 1st and 2nd the machine will work for me going through the woods picking up wood. Any help is greatly appreciated. New to this if you can't tell. Thanks