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Chalkstk

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Everything posted by Chalkstk

  1. I originally pulled plug, cleaned with contact spray and then dielectric grease. Didn't help till I pulled sensor and contact sprayed the bullet looking plunger. Must have been loosing proper contect internally is my guess. Thank God fro small miracles and guys like you on this great forum. Frankie
  2. Thx All, I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input. Frankie
  3. All, Day 3 and starting to count the chickies. Think I will replace both sensors as they become available. A couple of spares will be worth saving aggrevation. Frankie
  4. Yeah Rick, Hope this is it. And I will stay on board. Wish I had a T-2 instead. That xtra cylinder and cc's must run pretty good. Never had the R-2 above 60. Tachs pretty high. Would have been great to have an OD gear for highway use. Oh, well, be content with what we have Frankie ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Lenny, If problem begins again, do you think it is the IAC and can one be obtained? Rough $? Thx
  5. Hi All, Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy................... Lenny, Does IAC stand for "internal air control"? Thx, Frankie
  6. Yes it is all the way out. The only thing I did yesterday was to remove and contact spray both the IAC and the throttle sensor. Today, it started fine and ran all day without one high rev cycle. Tomorrow I'll try again. Would be great if it was that simple, but not countng chickens yet Frankie
  7. Yes, that is the bullet shaped sensor I removed. But I can't get it physically to move. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and reinstalled. If I remove it from port and hit ignition, should it move or engage? Also I have the R-2 manual. The page numbers are probably different from the T-2. Should I just look under electrical heading? Frankie
  8. Lenny, I appreciate your knowledge, but remember I do not even know what the IAC is or where it is. I need pics of my motor and arrows pointing to these varied sensors you speak of. But the manual is no help. When my motor idles, it is only about 650, not 900. If I turn the screw in, it over revs and not just upping the idle speed a little at a time. I did the throttle sensor twist and tighten thing and it id nothing, If I had parts to interchange, I could manage. One or more must be defective. But you have me worried about intake manifold leak. I'm assuming you mean intake and not exhaust, correct? Early on when problem first began, Casey told me to run engine and spray starting fluid on intake. He said if motor rpm's increase, then there was a leak. It didn't do it at the time. Should i try this again? There is one sensor above the throtle sensor. Looks like a bullet when removed. What does it do and what is it called? I did change the MAS sensor Casey sent me awhile back just before they went out. No change. So it's a real crapshoot. Thx, Frankie
  9. Rick, Maybe you missed it, but I had the machine in Tempe for this prob and all Casey did was replace battery. Then he sent me a MAS sensor. Then Joyner went kaput. So he did not know either. Remember, this has been going on since Aug of 08. There is only 800 miles on the R-2 which shows how much I haven't enjoyed driving it. He was warantee'ing it but now I have to pay for whatever. I just wish I knew what to buy and then find out if anybody has the right part or parts. If it's the computer, I'll plant flowers in it. I hid my sledge hammer:) Frankie
  10. Rick, Can you give me a list of all sensors on the R-2, 3 banger? Then I'll call him and see which or all he has available. It seems at this juncture, that one or more of these sensors is defective. I stil have not found the CPU and I pray this big buck part is sound. Thx, Frankie
  11. Did everything you and Rick offered. Ran fine twice start and stop. Had a cup of coffee, went back out and high revved again. I give up. Hopefully Joyner will have dealers again, and I'll bring it in. Still can't find ECU in engine compartment. It must be under cowl in front? Disappointed, but beyond anger Frankie
  12. So what did Lenny mean by changing it's position back nd forth? Mechanically I assume? Do you think that when I finally get it to idle after start/stop that the engine is warming up some and then finally idles? If so, what does that tell us? Anything different than we know up to now? Remember guys I'm a novice but I can turn a wrench if I know what to turn. Bless you all, Frankie
  13. You guys have a real passion and I can't tell you how much I appreaciate everyone trying solve this delema. I will srew the scew in till it just touches the cam and then a smigit more till it high revs and then back again? Of course I'll have to have in idle mode first after a bunch of start/stops. Frankie
  14. Lenny, Where is this throttle position sensor? Is it the cam with the throttle cable riding on it? Frankie
  15. I must be missing it. The only box is the fuse panel which is on the passenger frame side. Mine is an 08. Could they have changed from other years? I did notice all my rubber hose slide on's were check cracked around outside, but not all the way thru, I siliconed them just in case. What ticks me off, is it runs so good and smooth when I get it to idle. And it never high revs going thru gears if I start off with normal idle. It will run till stopped, fine. Something about it sitting over nite. It is running right now. I'll fire it up in the AM and see it it idles. But first I'll turn the fuel pressure to 52 from 41. Frankie
  16. Rick, Throttle cam is at rest without idle srew even touching it. If I turn srew in, it high revs with just an 1/8th turn. Frankie
  17. Lenny, I think you are forgetting about apples and oranges I have a Renegade, 3 banger and you have a Trooper, 4 banger. I do not see any ECU behind or under drivers seat. And what does the IAC look like? Could you ask someone else where the ECU is on the R-2? I don't know what thread to use for that question. It would be nice if the manual had pics of the engine that had an ABC of marking out each sensor and other components as to location and what they look like. I don't mind learning, but feel without a mentor I'm grasping at straws by guessing what does what and where it is. Not stupid, just ignorant or uninformed. Didn't realize I had to be a tech to own and enjoy driving my UTV Frankie
  18. Lenny, It was running fine after I'd get it to idle, all day. But yesterday, it worked start and stop, twice. The third time it high revved and that is after it is warmed up. Just another quirk. Is the ECU under the drivers seat? All I saw and adjusted to 41 psi was the the fuel pump gage. Is that setting alright? It was originally set to about 21 psi. So it doesn't sem to be a cold problem, but after it sits for any length of time. The kill switch off and on does nothing either. So it doesn't seem to be a default problem does it? THX again for all the tips. I sure am learning what machine looks like under that low dump box that I crack my head on everytime I become a contortionist getting underneath it. Frankie
  19. Kin Cleaned and greased all terminals in engine compartment including fuse box. Where is the ECU in the R-2? Please dont tell me I have to remove the whole cowl. Okay, tell me Read about canister control valve, but how do I tell if it is bad? That is the real prob., not knowing what to buy or even if what I need is available. And to make it worst, no one we have talked too has had this intermitant prob. It would probably be easier if it always high revved. It took about 6 cranks of start/ stop to idle today after plug cleaning. But I still need to get to ECU plugs. Frankie
  20. Hi AZ, The throttle body cam is at rest. Idle screw is completely backed off. Think the plug and unplug tip is next to try. Got di-electric grease and contact cleaner ready. Thx for the concern. Evrybody here has been a great encouragment. Frankie
  21. Thx Kin, I'll try the plug in and out thing. Just got some di-electric grease. But my sledge hammer is at the ready Frankie
  22. Rick, I know less than you. I wouldn't know the difference between idle sensor and throttle sensor. There are no pics in pdf manual. I changed MAS sensor, because Joyner sent me one before they went kaput. It didn't chage a thing. New battery didn't work either. If this thing always high revved, we might be able to determine prob, but the intermittance is squirley at best. All I can say is nothing is obvious to the eye, but I'll look again and thx again. Frankie
  23. When it idles, it is about 600 to 750 rpms. The idle screw is backed all the way off. If I turn it in just a touch, it over revs. In other words I can't just get to go from say 750 to 900 or a 1000 rpms. Today I fired it up, and it high revved. Turned it off, and on the next crank, it idled (a first after just two cranks). I went to town. Made a stop. Restarted and ran fine. Made another stop. Started it and it high revved again. After a series of start/ stops, I could not get it to idle at all. So I drove home with motor racing between shifts. I'm looking for a sledgehammer right now. Thx for the input. Frankie
  24. And the beat goes on. I guess I spoke too soon, The high rev intermittant problem is back. Simply beside myself without profesional help, I have a 12 thousand dollar flower pot. Bummer Frankie
  25. Don'y know about Oke, but I registered mine in S. Dakota. Drive it in Quartzsite, AZ everday. Insurance is high, as they classify it under motorcycle standards. Frankie
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