Chalkstk

You said it had several wraps around the plug wire, try laying the wire along the plug wire without wrapping around the plug wire and see if that works and use a different cylinder just in case that has something to due with your x problem. The wrapping may have caused part of the problem.

Went to dubachracing.com but couldn't fine any thing about the installation of the hour meter. What was you link you used.

Kinarfi

Same site. If you click on the meter pic, it gives a little info on coiling wire etc. Why do you think hooking same way without coiling on a different plug wire might work? Trying to figure this out in my pea brain and am still foggy. It must be one sensituve computer.

Frankie

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Ren 2 , I'll try the scrubby and 1/4 " wire mesh thing on the muffler........thx!

Yo Lenny,

Went to dubachracing.com. Hour meter does work off of inductance or capasitance on spark plug wire. But in my case, it must have messed up computer read and caused high idle. So who needs an hour meter? Still have the odometer, though it is hard to read. Not bright enough. Do you have any preference for exhaust? My muffler is louder than I'd like, but I don't want to lose performance for the sake of quiet.

Frankie

Kinarfi, this needs to go in special fixes. Who would have thunk.

Lenny

The label on the meter is "dubachracing .com." I'll go to the site when I have time and check out hook-up.

Frankie

PS R-2 has a little more pazzaz since the K &N and snorkle fix. I turned the existing hose up and cut councle above the mesh. Added a 8" x 1 -1/2 " galv. pipe nipple with pvc coupling and brought it to 2- 1/4" OD for K & N to slip over. The sound is cool too except it's right beside my right ear. I'll just leave my hearing aids off

Thx All

Chalkstk, Thinking out loud here, but I may be that the wire was supposed to be taped to the plug wire to act as a capacitive pick up like a timing light pick up but not electrically connected. If they nicked the insulation of the wire it was taped to, try taping it to another plug lead with out nicking the plug wire.

No. I took the tape off and like you said it was just coiled around outside of plug wire and taped to it. I disconnected it and caught a 12 v wire off the cigarette plug. I also noticed that the wire on the meter side just sets into a slot, no terminal?

Makes no sense, but the machine idles great without it and that was the main problem for 1 1/2 years.........duh! I'll get the brand when I go back out.

Thx,

Frankie

That is interesting. It was probably not getting a good spark on that cylinder so when it was cold that cylinder didn't get a good burn. If it burned slow and all the way out the exhaust, it could leave the air fuel ratio reading rich. The burn out the exhaust would use up any oxygen left and the sensor would see a rich mixture and open the IAC reving the engine. Wow, hows that for a wild guess. Anybody have any other wild ideas? Unless you set around with the ignition on without running the engine, you should be able to hook the hour meter to the hot side of the ignition. That would be the yellow wire on the ignition side of the plug that connects the ignition switch to the wire harness. This wire turns to a dark blue on the other side of the plug. You can connect to either side of the plug. This lead is switched with the ignition. This is assuming that your hour meter runs on 12 volts. Hooking it to the ignition wire doesn't make sence to me unless it reads the pulses which it could do. I assume it wasn't wired to the ignition wire itself but just taped to the outside of the insulation cover.

Lenny

Thx Lenny. I'll pull the tape off to see whether they nicked the spark plug wire. I'm going out to start it now. If it idles, the fix is good. Wish me well....I'll let you know.

Frankie

PS if I ever get down to Yuma, I'm bringing that 2x4. This prob has gone on for a year and a half and even Joyner, Tempe could not find it.............Grrrrrrh!!!

New to this forum, was just wondering if you would be crazy to buy a new Joyner trooper with the current situation with Joyner? What are your thoughts on this subject? Thanks

Hi RF and welcome. I'm fairly new here myself and have been blessed by the knowledge and help these guys and gals have been.

After reading a bunch of these posts, you might think twice about Joyners and especially with the current situation, but that's another story. I think it really depends on what you want to do with a machine.....................play only or workhorse only or streetable or a combo of two or all three?

I bought a R-2 in 08. I checked out all the specs as to ground clearance, tire size, engine size, wheel base, carrying capacity of dump bed and watched a vid of a Rhino and R-2 take the same severe course. The Joyner beat it hands down. Not so sure about a drag race, as I was not concerned, though I want the machine to be fast also. But the thing I liked best was a real five spd tranny. The majority out there are all automatics. the dump beds are plastic and can't carry much of a load. Mind you, I am speaking of the R-2 which is as much a workhorse as a fun machine.

The T-2 is a different ballgame and most here have them. But they seem to have more breakage and need allot of mods depending on what you want from a machine. They are more expensive, but boast a four banger versus my three banger. I think if I were where you are, I would wait and see what happens with the company as to availabilty of parts and service

Hope you enjoy it here. Ask anything you want and someone will have the info.......................

Frankie

Hello All,

This maybe a Rippley's "believe it or not" moment................................... I was perusing all the wiring to various sensors on the engine when I noticed a 22 ga blk wire running from the hour meter, I ordered with the R-2, and had Silverbullet Motor Sports do the install. As I followed where the wire hooked to, I cringed in unbelief

It was afixed to one of the spark plug wires and wrapped with blk electrical tape. And even the tape job was sloppy

As I was imagining the oaf in my mind's eye, with a 2x4 in my hand, I proceeded to snip the wire and cap off. I no longer have an hour meter, but so far the machine idles

Does anybody know where the other end of the hour meter wire truly gets hooked up to? I also got my snorkle and K &N installed. Looks great and runs fine. Thx for all the tips from everybody who replied. Nice to know friends indeed when in need

Frankie

Thx All for the tips and trix. Got the job 1/2 done............waiting for my K &N filter and pre-filter tomorrow from Auto Zone. now if I can get it to idle, I can play desert dog or coyote................

1/2 happy,

Frankie

I used a pvc reducer to change to the right size of the filter neck works great, I have 2 R2s and never had a problem with the idel, R2s didnt seem to have the same diff problems as the Troppers my 08 has over 6k miles and no problems.

Good to hear about the diff's. So do I have the right filter number? The reducer is a plumbing part I assume.............from what to what as to diameters?

I am famous for ordering wrong cat #, LOL!

Frankie

On the R2 the flex hose that runs from intake to the air box is long enough to take off the air box and turn up and run between bed and cab, I mounted mine to the cross bar with a 2 hole strap, no drilling or cutting anything, used a short pice of pvc pipe to clamp between flex hose and filter. looks cool and sounds great when you dance on it. the oem air box leaks too much dirt past the filter and why have a filter intake right in front of the rear wheel? I havn't had to clean the new filter for a long time now.

Hi Renegade, Thx for the tip. I have a K & N number from another poster.............RC-4160 and pre-filter wrap.....RC-4160-DK. Is the dia. of the stock hose the same as this filter for tight clamping with hose clamp? I haven't had it apart yet to measure. K & N has a multiple of throat sizes and I want to be sure to order right filter size.

Thx again,

Frankie aka Chalkstk

PS have you ever encountered high rev problem like I have on the R-2? How about any differential problems like many seem to have with Troopers? That scares the u-no what out of me:)

Cut a hole through the vent mesh between the two seats. That is the best way. Kinarfi used a 7" vacuum cleaner hose and extension hose wand. Look in here Parts, Pieces, and Information for our Troopers - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum under My Snorkel.

Cheers Mike.

Thx, Mike.....................this board is a Godsend. Amazed at the ingenuity of those here. Men after my own heart...........improvise when engineers have brain F**ts

Frankie aka Chalkstk

Not that I have come across. You could go with K&N Pod filter and set it up like a snorkel, like this Air Filter/Snorkle - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum post 10. The K&N part # is RC-4160 and pre-filter is #RC-4160-DK. You could mount it in the engine bay, but why would you.

Fram do make a Air Filter that is a cross brand for the Renegade stock air box. I can't find the part number but if you take it into your local parts store, they will find the match & you never know, they might find a K&N match too.

TJ USA did have a part conversion chart and they state in there that a CARQUEST Air Filter part # CA3718 . We don't have CARQUEST over here so don't know what they are like.

Cheers Mike.

How do I get it out of the bay with my bed? The only exit would be somewhere above gas tank where fill snorkle is. Would I just need proper od flex hose?

Thx,

Chalkstk

Hi Mike,

Yes you are resetting your computer. This makes me think it is an intermitting problem like a small short in your wire harness.

Look in your ECU Troubleshoot in your Renegade owners manual on page 139/140. The title is: Idle is too high(ECU needs self-study again)

The important thing here is take it to an Auto Sparky to fix I think, because as soon as he uses a Diagnostic Reader, he should know what's going on. More that likely it is stated in that section in your manual, otherwise I think it is a wire shorting the circuit somewhere.

Cheers Mike.

I live in Quartzsite, AZ. There is no body here that has any knowledge about ATV/UTV's. The two nearest Joyner Dealers are Yuma, 100 mi south and used to be one in Havasu 90 mi north. But he does not even have a phone anymore. I do have a trailor, but to who should I go? Evry dealer I called online could not pinpoint, for they never had this problem on any of their rigs they have sold or serviced.

So here I sit broken hearted No offene, but having some knowledge of electrical wiring, a short is a short, not intermittent unless a lose connection that sometimes contacts and then when moved or disturbed, does not function. But I'm just sitting there cranking and stopping, and "wallah" on the sixth or more starts, it idles fine. That is until it sits for a day or two.

It seems it would be easier to troubleshoot if it simply would never idle?? But thx much for your input. Did you see my other thread on K & N for the 3 banger. Joyner never had a number to fit this airbox, but there must be one with those dimensions. If not these Chinamen engineers need some designing discernment imo. I know I can get a cone style. but probably need some ofset pvc elbow to offset so I can drop the bed. Again, no info???

I think I'll just cry in my winecooler today

Chalkstk

Thx Lenny, though I don't know what each of the sensors looks like. Been too lazy to study the manual. But I guess it is time. What gets me the most is the intermittent problem. Once I get it to idle, it will start and stop all day long. But after sitting for day or two as I have said, it over revs on start up and scares the ****** out of me. I took out a sensor that had a little bullet point on it. It doesn't move without ignition. I cleaned and lubed it and nothing changed. My throttle cable seems fine and idle screw is all the way relieved. But I don't know about the butterfly?

But I will do that contact stuff with all plugs. Thx again

Chalkstk

Hi again,

I tried shutting off kill swicth. Then back on before ignition. It has idled fine for a day. I assume the kill switch resets computer to default. If this continues to work, then part of my problem is fixed. So what is the real problem when I don't use kill switch?

Chalkstk

We are near Tucson, AZ/ The Mexico is south of the border because we go down ofter. Leaving today for a week. You will be 4 hours from us.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

We retired in 04 as Fulltime RV'ers. We manage a small RV park in Quartzsite from Sept to May, then go to Deming for summer months. Problem is now that I have the R-2, I can only tow it either behind the Class A or behind the GMC PU. So I can't drive both vehicles, as my wife hates to drive period............Bummer!

Have a safe and great time in Mex and watch out for those "druggies" I have had no meaningful response to my high rev situation. Can't afford to just buy a bunch of parts and hope I catch the problem but never know which part did the fix, that is if I could get all the parts.

Went thru the pdf manual last nite and was disappointed as they give allot of schematics, but no pics of the part they explain. I have no idea what one sensor, except the MAS, looks like or where it is on the engine???

Could I have a possible intake gasket leak? Would that cause high rev? If so, then why does it finally idle after a bunch of strats/stops? This "intermittence" is driving me nuts, instead of me driving my rig

Chalkstk

Does K & N make a Air filter to fit stock air box? Number #? Or do I need cone style type? Is there enough clearance for bed to close?

Thx,

Chalkstk

From the ad. " Call casey 480-766-6137 "

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thx roc. Where are you in NM? We will be in Deming for the summer

Chalkstk

It does say in the manual that a defective carbon canister control valve can cauuse Idle control problems. Also check your IAC (idle air control). It could be sticking until it gets warmed up or loosened up some. It's on the throttle body. pull it off and look at it when you turn on the key and see if the center pin moves. If you check the manual it shows how to check it with a multimeter along with most of the other sensors. I suspose that if the engine RPM sensor were faulty, it could tell the computer that the engine needs more RPMs when it really doesn't. Check all the engine control sensor connectors. Go through them one by one, unplugging them and reinserting them. Preferrably get some di-electric greese from the auto parts store and apply it prior to reinserting. Work the plugs in and out a few times. Let me think, I'm just thinking out loud here. On mine, I found that my throttle cable was getting sticky and the spring wouldn't pull the butterfly valve shut all the way. I cleaned and lubercated it and added a second spring to assist the pull back. Also check your MAP sensor in the intake manifold along with the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold ( the first one primarily) if either one of these were defective they could cause a problem because they each can control the carburator IAC valve operation. Look for any disconnected air lines in the intake system or air leaks where the engine could be getting extra air that the MAP sensor isn't seeing. Thats all I can think of now so good luck. Hopefully others can add to this.

Lenny

Thx Lenny, though I don't know what each of the sensors looks like. Been too lazy to study the manual. But I guess it is time. What gets me the most is the intermittent problem. Once I get it to idle, it will start and stop all day long. But after sitting for day or two as I have said, it over revs on start up and scares the ****** out of me. I took out a sensor that had a little bullet point on it. It doesn't move without ignition. I cleaned and lubed it and nothing changed. My throttle cable seems fine and idle screw is all the way relieved. But I don't know about the butterfly?

But I will do that contact stuff with all plugs. Thx again

Chalkstk

I'm going to go out on the limb and sujest you try something. Set your fuel regulator pressure to be up about 5 or 10 pounds. When you first start a engine, it want's an extra shot of fuel. The engine is cold, the mixture is not quite as explosive. When it's first cranked, you do crank it don't you with the crank handle on the front, the engine can accumulate fuel until it has enough to start. Just maybe, the engine falls behind in fuel just after it starts, but, once past this point, everything goes fine. The air fuel senser sees plenty of fuel so doesn't increase it. With higher pressure, the engine will get more fuel at the start but the computer will pull it back once running.

This should be an interesting test. If you try it, let us know. It's just a non educated thought, as we say winging it.

If it doesn't idle good after it's running, it could be the throttle body idle air bypass valve sticking. If so, it needs removing and cleaning. I had to do that with mine but for a different reason. Mine wouldn't idle down as the valve was stuck too far open.

Lenny

Lenny,

I have and 800cc 3cyl with high idle problem.......real hgh, 3800 RPM. Where is that by-pass valve? I have to start/stop at least a half dozen times and then it idles fine. If it sits for couple of days, it high idles all over again. MAS sensor has been changed.

Thx,

Chalkstk

Unique Fixes - UTV BOARD - Side X Side and UTV Forum just a little post I feel every trooper owner should read about differentials, Maybe it's fixed with the newer units, don't know.

Kinarfi

Do the R-2 Renegades 800cc 3-banger have diff problems also?

Chalkstk

Yea, I spoke to him a few times.Gonna give him a call later.Wish i saw his add last night,I may have made a trip over there and picked up some parts today.

Yes, Casey is the one I was troubleshooting with on my high rev problem before they closed. Do you have his phone number?

THX,

Chalkstk

Welcome. Hang in there. There are some knowledgeable people on here and someone may have some suggestions. Just don't give up!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Thx roc,

I thought about having the "Devil's Spawn" lettered on the cowl. LOL!

Chalkstk

Hi All,

Newbi here. I have a 08 Renegade R-2 800cc.. I have had a high rev problem on start up for well over a year. Brought it to Tempe last year and all they did was a battery change. Worked for awhile and then began again. They then sent me a MAS sensor and that worked, so it seemed for short while. Finally we realized the problem was an intermittant one and they were going send out a tech to scan components.

Then as you all know, they are out of business. And now I am stuck with a 12 grand "flower pot". I crank it up, starts fine, then revs to about 3800 rpm. Turn it on an off about 7 to 8 times and it finally will idle and run fine all that day by starting and stopping. After it sits for a day or two, the high rev begins again and I have to do the start/stop thing over and over.

I've called a bunch of dealers here in AZ, and none has a soloution, but say it could be this or that. And then to top it off, no one has parts. Has anybody here had this problem or knows someone who can help.?

Discouraged,

Chalkstk