gates98

After not riding for awhile kept having problems with it barely running checked fuel pressure and seen it was only about 20 psi changed filter and pump still the same ended up disconnecting power and ground from pump running my own ground and power from battery and dash mounted switch haven't had a problem since and since I'm running a turbo had to disconnect post o2 sensor

1. Ok thanks didn't know they made a kit kinda figured the only way was to remove bushing but it was gonna be a pain I wrapped the top and bottom of shaft in wet rags as well as input shaft and welded gusset in everything seems fine time will tell ... thanks again

Ok I'm finally getting around to beefing up fork but can't seem to get it out of trans case any ideas thanks

when it starts doin its thing unplug both of them i left mine unplugged and never had another issue

try unplugging ur O2 sensors for some reason it seemed to clear mine up when it was doin the intermit power loss

UPDATE after almost two years of picking this thing apart i found out what was causing my intermitant power loss or limp home mode the factory had my O2 Sensors hooked up backwards so finally it runs as it should thanks for all the help

still having this issue does anyone know what the values are supposed to be for the speed sensor thanks

I'm sure you don't need this caution, but just cutting the 4 1/2 " sections out will change the geometry and you'll have to make some bends to make thing match up again.

Kinarfi

I did the same thing in a post earlier this year and everything lined back up just fine

As the connection begins to heat and self destruct, the heat is caused by the voltage drop across the connection, and as it self destructs the voltage drop get larger and larger leaving less voltage for the pump and thus the pump can't make the pressure needed.

The amount of heat is determined the voltage drop across the connection and the current through the connection, as the voltage goes up, the current will decrease, but the heat (wattage dissipated) will continue to increase up to about a 25% voltage drop and then start falling off, but the damage has probably been done by this point.

Hope this is understandable, It's doubtful you have any other problems, like grounds, but it doesn't hurt to check, real often, I have cured problems that I couldn't fine the exact cause of by just pull the fuse or relay and plugging them back in, they seem to make a better contact because of the sliding in & out. Also if you have a loose connection,you should be able to feel it.

Kinarfi

ok thanks alot i talked to snowman yesterday and he explained how to put the fan on its own circuit ill be finishing that up today ill let you guys know how it turns out thanks again for everyones help

I quickly looked at the diagram and it shows a wire going between the fan relay and the fuel pump relay.

yeah looks like they jump the power from the fan to the fuel pump

They use the same power supply.. use a relay and a inline fuse for the fan and have the old fan power wire trigger the relay.. it maybe that the power supply going into the fuse box has a high resistance in it, I would check it with a volt meter and see how much voltage is at the pump with and without the fan fuse in

ok i checked the fuel pump current with the fan fuse in it was 13.20vdc and with the fuse out it was 13.75 vdc so whats this mean

Place the fan & fuel pump on their own circuit. You can purchase an in-line fuse for protection at any parts house.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

they are on theyre own circuit arent they there is separet fuses for each idk im just confused lol

any ideas on y the fan fuse would have caused the fuel pump to drop in pressure or do you think it was two separate problems ..... i guess im going to start by checkin all the wires from the fan and check all my grounds do you know how many grounds there are and where they are

well i check the harness from the fan to the fuse box no shorts any where the fan plug was wet so i dried it out wired everything back up and my fuel pressure would not go above 20 psi again untill i pulled the fan fuse the pressure jumped right up to 50 psi put the fuse back in and that white wire and fan fuse still keeps getting hot i dont understand how the fuel pump and the fan are connected

I've this several times in 12 v and 110 and 220vac. My theory on it is that a slightly connection develops some heat or corrosion which makes more heat which causes it to loosen and or corrode which makes more heat which........... until you generating enough heat to melt everything but not pulling enough power to pop the fuse. I just finally quits making contact.

Kinarfi

any ideas on y the fan fuse would have caused the fuel pump to drop in pressure or do you think it was two separate problems ..... i guess im going to start by checkin all the wires from the fan and check all my grounds do you know how many grounds there are and where they are

went for a ride today and after bout 2 hours of having a blast the trooper just started running really ruff wouldnt except any fuel and it just shut off check fuel pressure it was under 20 psi and went to check fuses and the fan fuse actually melted the the wire and the fuse without blowin the fuse so i towed it home started messin with it i pulled the fan fuse out and turned the key it fired right up lokked at the fuel ressure it was bout 62 psi put the fan fuse back in the fan worked but the fuse and the realy and the white wire gets really hot like its shorted out any ideas on how this would have made me loose fuel pressure or wha could be the problem in general

a friend was having a powerloss problem with the same symptoms. we changed out the fuel filter dumped injector cleaner into her .

and changed out the bad fuel. found that the fuelpump was being starved. something had jelled up in the filter

i just found out my fuel pump was bad it had a glitch in it where it would only pump half the volume sometimes

will do buddy thanks again

I still have the power loss problem still havent found the source been talking with casey but now im wondering if the ecu is just bad

I only know of the 2 grease fittings on each trailing arm and the one on the front driveshaft carrier bearing is all the grease fittings on these troopers

Thanks

Good luck,let us know what you find.

will do buddy thanks again

hey thanks alot i guess i do have the right book i found what i was lookin for now just gotta find the time to test it

in my manual for the 09 info for the TPS is on pages 110,122.

k ill check and c if its in mine thanks

Do you have the 1100trooperT2-T4_owners_manual? Mine is 27,248 Kb, so I can't email it, so I zipped it to 23,831 Kb and I think I can email that, do you want it? PM me with email address if you want it. (ANY ONE)

Kinarfi

i do have one but i dont think its for my 09 t2

i cant find any info on the tps in the book i have to do sum more diggin

gates, need pics of the cage mod. I have wanted to do the same.

The steering wheel has never bothered me because in most of my race cars the wheel was never on center. In road-racing the distance to the wheel is extend the arm full length and the wheel should hit the fold of your wrist. Circle track, as close as is comfortable. So I don't care where the thing is as long as it is on the trail. LOL!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

i dont have my camera rightnow but it was really simple all i did was take a grinder and grind off the welds holding the bung on the cage did that to all 4 corners then i got my pipe cutter and took 3/4 in off the front of the cage and bout 2 1/2 off the back and it worked out perfectly dropped it just enough took look alot better but still have sufficent head room in case the cage would get mashed in event of a roll over

it wasnt the centering of the wheel that drove me nutz is was how high up it felt like i was reachin for it

I run plain old premium also,92 octain.I have run 89 once but same problem.

i run just plain old 87 octane