gates98

Thats a good idea on the steering wheel. I'm going to have to look at mine and see if that would improve the way mine feels for my wife and I. My wheel was always offset a little to the right, about 1" or so, so I moved it to the left to center it on the seat and like it better. Didn't think about lowering it .

Lenny

yeah it worked out alot better for me i also just moved my ecu and fuse box up right behind my headrest try to keep it dryer .... chopped my roll cage down took bout 3 inches out of it

I really didnt like how the steering wheel felt when i was driving my T2 felt like i was reaching for it so i cut off the mount on the column took i die grinder and ate the slot in the dash down farther made a new bracket dropped it down like 3-4 inches it feels great now , i didnt like how the clutch and brake pedal was either it didnt feel like i had enough foot room to pick up my feet just to push the clutch or brake in so i cut out bout 2-3 inches on the horizontal part of the pedal and welded them back together and belive me feels like a totally new machine made it alot more comfortable with them two mods

Could it be the Throttle position sensor? thats what i was thinking it is.

yep the throttle positioning sensor i know they dont work right it it aint perfectly set right with a ohms meter i have to see if i can find out the values its suppose to be set at

So far only found two of us with the problem and mine is a T-4 and I think gates98 is also.My pump is above the tank but if that was the cause seems like this would be an issue with all T-4's.I did move the filter past the pump from before the pump as was suggested but still have the problem.My next attempt to resolve this issue will be to replace the battery terminal clamps,install a better ground,and replace the two 02 Sensors.Wont be able to do that until next weekend,got it in garage in Havasu and thats my next planed trip.

mine is a T2 im going to start checking into the tps i know on my truck the tps was bad and it had simular problems

sounds like you and i have the same issue.funny there has been a couple times where i went for a 3 or 4 hour ride and it would not do it.

yeah i just took mine out tuesday and went for a 3hr ride and it didnt do it once untill i got out on the main road to come home and i made it into 4th gear when it just totally bogged out on me

I had the same problem.I removed the tank to clean it out so at that time I used larger diameter self drilling screws and a oil/fuel resistant sealant on both sides of the rubber gasket.Cleaned out tank real good and no problem since.

thanks alot guys worked great no more leaks

Gates,

I am still having the problem.If you stop and rev it up a little does it go away at least for a while? Also if i turn off the battery disconnect it fixes it for a while.I have checked many things as well as changing plugs.I was recently told by an ex joyner employee to check the 02 sensors to see if they are the japanese type,if so should change them.just checked them this moring and appears they are so next thing will be changing them.

yes it does if i push in the clutch mash it out one time then it is ok for a lil while it just seems like it does it whenever it wants i tried different things tryin to cause it but it wont do it

It's not uncommon for a ECU to use an active ground system. In other words what happens is that the 12v power runs directly to a device and to activate the devise, the computer connects the ground wire to ground completing the circuit. This way the computer has to deal with less amperage as the current going to ground is less then the current going to the devise. Some of it gets used up by the devise. I don't know how the canister valve is set up but if it's a 12v valve, being a valve, it shouldn't matter which way you hook up it directly to a 12v battery to test it. The selonid coil inside should work with the current going either way through it. Just don't have it hooked to the computer at the same time. I think this is correct. I say I think because I learned a long time ago that Ben Franklin never used words like, yes, no, absolutely, for sure, exactly and on and on. He alway used words like, I beleive so, very close, to the best of my knowledge, probably not, always leaving himself room for being wrong. So now I use it here and there.

Lenny

mine is doin the same thing with the losing power stuff but its not all the time

Rotate the sending unit a little and drill new holes. Use the original screws if you have a metric tap, or switch to self tapping screw. You may even want to replace the gasket with a thicker gasket or a cork gasket. If you have some good silicone smear some on the red plastic where the wires come out. The gas is probably causing it to go brittle, I bought some Permatex (I think) Black Magic high temp something like five years ago and it is still usable and very good stuff. I recommend it!!

that's my 2 cents worth.

Kinarfi

ok thanks alot buddy thats what ill do tomorrow

i have a fuel leak around the sending unit on my trooper went to make sure bolts were tight and 2 of them was stripped out any suggestions

Welcome to the forum, Just take you time and scan the various topics and read what you can, if it's been a problem, it's probably been talked about. If you have something specific that needs addressing, we're always glad to help.

And Like I always ask, suggest, please fill out your profile so we can all get to know you a little better.

Kinarfi

ok thanks will do

I am having a sale for the month of march, All our custom made tube fenders front and rear for the troopers will be 20% off!!!!

The rear tube fends I normaly sell for $125 will be going for $100 NLP Rear Tube Fenders Trooper - No Limits Powersports

The front tube fenders with headlight hoops normaly sell for $195 will be going for $156 NLP Front Tube Fenders With Head light Relocators - No Limits Powersports

All prices do not include shipping, and will have to be fitted and welded onto the unit by customer, All fenders are bent by my hands as they are ordered, so please allow 1 buisness day before being shipped

Jarrad

817-695-1151

[email protected]

I just bought the front and rear tube fenders from ya last week you didnt give me 20% off

Hi im new to the whole joyner thing just bought a 09 trooper last week actually and was wondering if anyone could help me out with what i need to go over or be worried bout before i take it out riding there are so many things im reading bout on this forum with stuff breaking i dont know where to start i dont know if the problems are on the 08's or the 09's but like i said any help would be appreciated

thanks

Hi Everyone

I own a Joyner Dealership that just went out of business. I have some Joyner Parts and Accessories that I'm going to sell on ebay. I thought i would post them here first. My name is Steve Shepherd and can be reached at 801-830-0690 if you are interested.

Available Parts:

Cone Type Air Filters (2008 Troopers & Sand Viper 800 & 1100) - 6 pcs - $10 each

Air Filter Socks - 5 pcs - $3 each

New Style 2009 Air Filter Elements (Trooper & Renegade) - 4 pcs - $10 each

Trooper Oil Pump Assembly - 1 pc - $20 (dealer cost was $69.50

Trooper Water Pump Gasket - 1 pc - $5 each

Trooper Brake Shoes - 4 pcs - $3 each

Trooper Rear Axle Assembly - 2 pcs - $50 each

Trooper Piston - 1 pc - $10 each

Trooper or Renegade Radiator - 1 pc - $50 each

Trooper or Renegade Radiator Fan - $50 each

Trooper Axle Inner CV Boot (BT1055) - 3 pcs (no clamps) - $5 each

Trooper Axle Outer CV Boot (BT1063) - 4 pcs (no clamps) - $5 each

Trooper or Rengade Side Mirrors - 6 pcs - $10 each

Horn Button Assembly - 1 pc - $5 each

Used Trooper Exhaust System - 1 pc - $50 each

Commando Oil Filters - 2 pcs - $5 each

Renegade Multi Purpose Rack (can be modified for Trooper) - 1 pc - $50 each (Dealer cost was $160.50)

Renegade Cargo Rack (can be modified for Trooper) - 1pc - $50 each - (Dealer cost was $160.50)

Renegade Light Bar - 1 pc - $50 each (Dealer cost was $150)

Trooper or Renegade Seat - 1 pc - $50 each

Renegade R2 Soft Full Enclosure - 1 pc - $75 each

Renegade R2 Soft Top - 1 pc - $10 each

Trooper T2 Soft Top - 1 pc - $10 each

Trooper T4 Soft Top - 1 pc - $10 each

Buyer to pay shipping cost.

Thanks

im interested in the t2 soft top and the brakes

I have been getting a lot of interest in the diff upgrade kit that I made up some time ago to correct the front and rear diff problems. I made up 20 kits and have sold all of them to members of this forum. At that time all those that wanted them got them so I didn't make up another batch as I put a fair amount of money into the required shims. Even though it only takes 7 or 8 shims to do the job, until the diff is apart it's not possible to know what thickness shims will be needed so I's necessary to send a fairly large asortment to fit all conditions. This includes multiple shims for 10 different places in the diffs. The kit also replaces the weaker metric grade 8 bolts with metric grade 12 along with changing the ring gear installation process for a much stronger assembly. I've decided to see if there are enough trooper owners and possibly commander owners (I think the commande diff is the same but check with someone who knows) that are interested in purchasing kits to warrant doing another batch. The kits will run $135 per diff and comes with complete instructions. Each trooper will require 2 kits if you do both the front and rear which is recommended. I will require a $35 deposit per kit from those wanting them. I don't want your money now but just let me know if you would buy kit(s). If I get enough, I will contact you for a deposit then. It will take about a month to pull everything together before I could ship a which time I'll require the balance prior to shipping. I'll pay all shipping cost for USA and Canada. If your interested it seeing the instructions so you can see what is involved, PM me with your email address and I'll send you a word file of the instructions.

With Joyner gone, hopefully temperarily, If we all work together, everything will be OK. If you don't want to do your own diff, there is a member dealer on the forum ( snowman 6479 ) that will do a upgrade for you if you send it to them. Their not using my kit other then they are welcome to it. I don't know what all they are doing and don't think they are changing out the weaker bolts but I may be wrong. Either way you should address the diff weakness problems or you may be in expensive trouble.

Lenny

Hi i just bought a 09 joyner trooper and im interested in seeing the upgrade kit for the diffs my email address is [email protected] thanks