Dale Stansbery

When I run mine on the farm, the speed is usually 15 MPH or slower, always in lo. Only when I hit the paved road to go between properties do I use hi, and I run 35-40 MPH.

I'll try again, I typed a lengthy reply, but it disappeared. According to the Owners Manual, section 10-15, every 400 hours in answer to your question. When you change the engine oil, the drain plug will have a spring and screen sitting on top. The spring will be under compression and will want to pop out and go flying if you're not expecting it. To reinstall it, get your machine as high as you can to have room to put it in. The trick will be to balance the spring and screen, cup side down in the spring, on the plug. then press the whole thing into the hole until the spring is compressed and the plug threads are flush with the hole threads, and screw it in. The spring compression will fight you so when you push it in be sure you can rotate your wrist far enough to start the threads. There's also an o ring on the plug so be sure not to lose it.

I just looked at the parts diagram for the oil pump and it also shows an o ring on the plug itself. Be sure it's still on your plug. I don't remember what mine looked like when I changed oil this summer, but it must have been there, at least it doesn't leak. Motor Cycle Doctor has very good parts diagrams for the Coleman UTV's.

I think you have it like it is in the photo. The spring sits in the filler plug. It's difficult on your back underneath with little room, but you can carefully balance it on the plug. Then compress it into the drain hole until the plug is in full contact with the pan, and then rotate to thread in. The spring wants to resist your effort, but if you're careful and hold it up flush with the pan, it will thread right in. The trick I found was to position my hand and arm so I could press it up and still have enough range of motion left to rotate it. I have an Outfitter 550 with an identical setup.

Here's a photo of my noise reducer on my outfitter 550. It made a big difference in overall noise level.

Hmm, I start my outfitter 550 in low, haven't tried High or Reverse, and won't. I use it in the barnyard on level ground a lot and since it won't start without the brake depressed, I don't shift to neutral every stop just to save a little wear and tear on the linkage. I guess I wouldn't recommend it as general practice though.

I have a 2021 outfitter 550 and the first thing I did for the noise was hang a coil of about 3 feet of 1.125 inch flex exhaust hose on the end of the muffler. I've been running it for a year with no problems and no perceived loss of power. I had to play around with some copper plumbing fittings to make the connection. After reading about aefron88's use of sound deadening material, that may be my next effort.

Yep, I have the same complaint with mine (2021). I'm thinking eventually I'll try to add an inch or so to the length to see if it will still clear the floor.

Ha, we have the same problems, as my 76 year old body has the same problem.

When I pressed up firmly against the spring and the plug was flush against the threads, it easily started right in by finger pressure. If it doesn't start easily, then you may not have it pushed up firmly, then the plug may be tilted a little. just don't use a wrench if you can't get it started by your fingers. You're fighting the spring pressure to get it squared up to the threads.

I'd put it back in, in case of something , a shaving etc. getting loose in your oil system and causes a catastrophe. I just recently changed my oil for the first time and got the same surprise when the spring and screen popped out. I had difficulty reinstalling it also. The screen sits down in the spring so it stays put, but you have to carefully balance the spring on the oil plug as you get it in place. Once you get it started in the hole, press up firmly to completely compress the spring then twist to engage the threads. Once I figured out how to hold it and position my hand and wrist so that I had enough rotation left in my hand and wrist, it went right in. It would probably help to jack up the rear end, once you have the oil drained so you have more room to maneuver.

I've been trouble shooting similar problems on my PU truck. I came across a method to test for parasitic current draw by measuring voltage drop across your fuses. You need a good digital voltmeter that can measure millivolts and a chart for your fuse type and amp rating. When you get a voltage reading above 0, there's a current draw. then look up the voltage read on the chart for that specific fuse. On a UTV I'd think the draw with the key off would be pretty minimal over all. For my truck, the suggested total parasitic draw to keep the computers running with the key off is something like 50 milliamps or less, a UTV is probably less. If you find a high draw, then you've isolated the problem circuit. The technique description and charts for the fuse types can be found here... https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/how-to-perform-a-parasitic-draw-test/ Caveat, I just found this information, and haven't tested my truck. But, having an electrical engineering background, I find the theory solid.

Hmm, now to figure out how to set it. Presumably that's what the "set" button is for. Thanks for your reply Brandale.

I purchased a new 2021 Outfitter 550 this past July from TSC. At 12 hours it's not broken in yet but seems to run smoother each time I take it out on the farm. My question is how to decipher the dash panel indicator readings. I can switch from miles to hours, and read them, no problem. But there are other numbers that make no sense. it reads a number like 8-10, and the second number will gradually increase, or come times it will be 9-## something. It all seems nonsensical to me, Unfortunately the manual does not address this as far as I can tell. It also has two buttons, "hours/miles" and "set". I have no idea what you can "set", or how to do it.