Dale Stansbery

Ha, we have the same problems, as my 76 year old body has the same problem.

When I pressed up firmly against the spring and the plug was flush against the threads, it easily started right in by finger pressure. If it doesn't start easily, then you may not have it pushed up firmly, then the plug may be tilted a little. just don't use a wrench if you can't get it started by your fingers. You're fighting the spring pressure to get it squared up to the threads.

I'd put it back in, in case of something , a shaving etc. getting loose in your oil system and causes a catastrophe. I just recently changed my oil for the first time and got the same surprise when the spring and screen popped out. I had difficulty reinstalling it also. The screen sits down in the spring so it stays put, but you have to carefully balance the spring on the oil plug as you get it in place. Once you get it started in the hole, press up firmly to completely compress the spring then twist to engage the threads. Once I figured out how to hold it and position my hand and wrist so that I had enough rotation left in my hand and wrist, it went right in. It would probably help to jack up the rear end, once you have the oil drained so you have more room to maneuver.

I've been trouble shooting similar problems on my PU truck. I came across a method to test for parasitic current draw by measuring voltage drop across your fuses. You need a good digital voltmeter that can measure millivolts and a chart for your fuse type and amp rating. When you get a voltage reading above 0, there's a current draw. then look up the voltage read on the chart for that specific fuse. On a UTV I'd think the draw with the key off would be pretty minimal over all. For my truck, the suggested total parasitic draw to keep the computers running with the key off is something like 50 milliamps or less, a UTV is probably less. If you find a high draw, then you've isolated the problem circuit. The technique description and charts for the fuse types can be found here... https://m.roadkillcustoms.com/how-to-perform-a-parasitic-draw-test/ Caveat, I just found this information, and haven't tested my truck. But, having an electrical engineering background, I find the theory solid.

Hmm, now to figure out how to set it. Presumably that's what the "set" button is for. Thanks for your reply Brandale.

I purchased a new 2021 Outfitter 550 this past July from TSC. At 12 hours it's not broken in yet but seems to run smoother each time I take it out on the farm. My question is how to decipher the dash panel indicator readings. I can switch from miles to hours, and read them, no problem. But there are other numbers that make no sense. it reads a number like 8-10, and the second number will gradually increase, or come times it will be 9-## something. It all seems nonsensical to me, Unfortunately the manual does not address this as far as I can tell. It also has two buttons, "hours/miles" and "set". I have no idea what you can "set", or how to do it.