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About Petersen

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  • Birthday 05/08/1979

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  1. The manual switch is not factory. It was added in because where the wiring plugs into the relay it had melted a bit, and did not work any more so a switch to run the fan manually was added in. My dad's friend fixed the shorted out wiring for the factory stuff and it worked good for us about twenty miles into the trip and we noticed the trooper heating up and sure enough the fan had quit working on us. The relay was super hot and melting the plug again. We unplugged it and went back to the manual switch.
  2. Thanks 2scoops. Yeah, it was a good price and we knew there would be issues, but the only thing we were told was it had problems overheating (which after getting the air lock fixed we have not had issues with). I do believe it was in storage for a while. It only had 280 miles on it and I know the odometer works because we put about 70 on it Friday. One issue I have not mentioned yet is that the relay for the fan is also toast but there is a direct switch for the fan to turn it on and off. Is this unique to the first 50 or all troopers? The trooper is definitely going to be an ongoing
  3. It still has the u-joint driveline. I assume that these are no longer under the warranty with joyner with all the changes. I will start looking around for one. I defintiely don't want to end up walking out of somewhere because of u-joints failing. Thanks.
  4. Thanks for the input. I believe the tires on it are the general grabbers. Will these work at the low psi without having issues with the beed staying set? I was also wondering if anyone has had issues with the coil on a shock rubbing on the body of the shock. Three of them have plenty of clearance, but the right rear is rubbing and makes a loud squeak when it does so. Nothing looks noticeably bent but ??? Is it possible to loosen the coil and try rotating it a little before tightening back down that may correct it? I can also add, the fuel tank on this t2 is definitely not factory. Th
  5. After going through both differentials and patching some cracks in the gas tank, the t2 finally made it out for its first trip. This was the first time ever being in a joyner and I was impressed with some things and found quite a few areas to address. First is the noise which I expected from what I had heard. Lots of rattles to track down and correct. I think this will be fairly easy and just take time. I wanted to see if any of you had comments on the steering box cover that Lenny sells. I assume this will take out quite a bit of noise in the front end, and will it also improve how re
  6. So, after a bit of work on the trooper, it was finally time to get it out and run it, WRONG! Went to fill it up with gas and there is about a 6 inch crack towards the top of the tank. So far, the front diff has been rebuilt and a new diff put in the rear. Now the tank is out and my dad will see if someone can fix it this week. My question is, I read somewhere a long time ago about Joyner upgrading tanks or gas tank issues??? Is this correct and were there faulty tanks in the past? Is there a better direction to take this rather than patching the tank and putting it back in? Any fee
  7. Thanks Lenny. I came by your place last summer and picked up a couple of kits from you. I knew this differential had issues but was hoping we would be alright when it was disassembled. No such luck. Hopefully the front one should be in good enough shape to be upgraded. In the diff it sounds like the pin/set screw came apart and it all went downhill from there. The guy my dad bought it from would only run it with the rear diff locked. When you unlocked the diff is when you would hear all the issues. Thanks for the opinion on the upgraded diffs. I did read some older posts explaining
  8. My dad finally broke down the rear differential in the trooper he picked up over a year ago. He let me know there isn't anything worth salvaging. teeth sheared, housing inside trashed, various other busted pieces. I might post some pics of it when I get to his house. What is the best way to get a new diff? I see that silverbulletmotorsports has two different options selling on ebay and I will get in touch with them tomorrow. I just wanted to know if anyone has experience with putting in a new or rebuilt replacement with upgrades, and what the best option might be. Thanks.
  9. Snowbird was right! I am at my dad's house and played with the machine a little bit. It was air locked. I took it for a spin around the block and no issues with overheating. Thanks! Now I have to get the driveline issue figured out. It seems like the rear differential to me and also the clutch needs to be adjusted or replaced.
  10. it is getting HOT. Not just the gauge. After I let it sit a while I could still not remove the radiator cap without fluid bloin out. It is bright green so I assume good. It looks like straight coolant. Even when I moved it from the driveway to the garage it started to heat up again after only being at slow idle for 3 or 4 minutes.
  11. The fan does work. I just drove it around the block without going fast. 15-20 mph at the most... I it got hot enough for the gauge to be max. The overflow filled up a bit as well. The braces on the bottom of the rear diff look like a couple heavy duty pieces of flat iron welded to the frame.. A long bolt goes through the diff housing and the flat iron on each side. It is also attached at the back of the housing to the frame. I will look through my manual about the locker completely releasing. Thanks.
  12. I updated some of the profile information. I live in Caliente, NV, but my dad and the trooper are in vegas. It is a 2008. I am learning the mechanics when I need to fix something. I haven't dug into a differential yet so all the pics and posts regarding them are a little overwhelming. I am sure when I pull it apart with my dad and friends it will make more sense. My dad bought it in vegas and a water pump was, and still is, on order with JMC. I guess they are backordered. We were thinking it may be the thermostat. No water is leaking around the pump. Wondering if the thermostat migh
  13. My dad just purchased a used T2 and it has issues. It overheats quickly (went around the block twice)... Not sure if it is the thermostat or pump. Is the thermostat a part that can be picked up at an auto parts store, or do I need to order one from JMC? Also, when in two wheel drive, it does a clanging and banging routine. If I lock the rear differential in 2wd it does not. I assume this is what I have read about regarding the differentials. If you could give me some direction I would appreciate it. Thanks. Tyler

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