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stevozz

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Posts posted by stevozz

  1. I am right in the middle of giving my green trooper a new face lift, reinforced the roll bar and did some changes to the rear bed added tie downs, got rid of the spare tire bars, getting powder coated tomorrow, welded square stock in to mount tools to, welded mounts for my piaa lights, made up a windbreaker a bigger one then what I had on it before, made my hood to open, also will have a cb radio in it, plus everything that I made and installed on it back in 2009. I am going to paint it desert camo. hope to have it done by the end of sept.

  2. 2scoops,

    The entire cross mount has to be replaced between the two tubes of the frame running from front to rear, about a foot in length. If you weld the existing material it will break again, been there and done that. Replace the bottom/lower mount at the same time as eventually it also will break also. I weld a 2"x1" tubing in the place of the round tubing the H mount (the mount the bolt goes thu on the diff) is currently weld to. I cut the round tubing away from the H mount and used rubber washers between the H mount & new cross mount/support and bolted it to the new rectangle tube. I did this on both the top and lower mounts to remove any future fatiguing of the metal. Thus far it has worked great. Just one idea! The existing metal is too soft and wall thickness varies from nothing to a little more than nothing.

    rocmoc n AZ

    Hi Rocmoc how are you? Hope that everything is going well for you. Mine are 2009s will it be different from yours? I never checked mine. I should check it now because I have my green one all tore down, and giving it a new look. Are we still planning to do some riding this fall? keep intouch ok? Take care!!!

    Stevozz

  3. Stev, I can only speak for myself, not for Joyner USA or Garth. I got sent the wrong parts again by the manufactures and they would not do the right thing by it. I told them I won't pay for their mistakes any more. They have cost me over the years and told them that I would have nothing more to do with them.

    Joyner in the States and Canada will continue through No Limits and Mudslingers. The parts are in stock now. The new 2011 Trooper will be night and day compared to the old model as will the Renegade. I can say that parts WILL NOT BE A PROBLEM.

    Support the guys that are still part of the Joyner family. From what I can tell so far, that’s No Limits, Silverbullet, Mudslingers and guys like Tim from Thin Air Powersports. Tim is a member on UTV Boards (Anylizer) and for the last two years, he’s worked behind closed doors securing Joyner parts for his customers. Look after these guys, because they have worked hard for you, the Joyner owners. I believe No Limits and Mudslingers will be the distributors and will supply Joyner dealers with vehicles and parts, plus sell direct to the public.

    Thanks Mike.

    Hi Mike, Thanks for the info Mike, and again goodluck to you and keep intouch!!! and yes I will buy from them.

    Thanks Stevozz

  4. Hi all, I noticed that my antifreeze/coolant reservoir is low. It has the "green" solution. what brands do you recommend?

    If you still have the factory stuff in what I would do is drain it out and put in a good quality antifreeze, when I bought mine I replaced it with prestone 50/50 mix.

  5. This afternoon (NZ time) I have decided to stop importing Joyner in New Zealand. This especially includes any spare parts and for that I feel bad for my customers over here that need them. The decision has not come lightly, but it’s one I’m forced to make. I wish the guys at Joyner USA Inc. all the best as I do all the Joyner dealers that gone through so much pain in the 18 months or so. These are good Joyner people and hope you Joyner owners will carry on supporting them. I admire them for staying loyal and hope the brand takes off again. A lot of hard work has gone into the new Joyner models, in particularly by Ken Morris. I just hope the manufactures don’t stuff it up :unsure: .

    I too am very loyal to the brand, but can no longer entertain the thought doing any business with the Joyner manufactures for reasons I’ll keep to myself, for now.

    Take care you guys & gals and for those going to the Jamboree have a bloody good time and stay safe.

    Ka kite anō

    Mike.

    Goodluck to you Mike, looking forward to see you on this forum again, I hope that everything will work out for you !!! Goodluck in what ever you do.

    Stevozz

  6. What I just read said Wix makes Napa's filters for them. And the 1 I was using, gold 1215 is replaced now by 1348,,

    Hi everyone, from the 1st time I changed engine oil I have been using NAPA Gold #1394 and never had a problem with them. I have 2 2009 troopers. I did hear that some owners were using Fram filters and they were coming loose. I too never liked fram oil filters. NAPA is a good filter to me anyway.

    Stevozz

  7. I’m not going into it, other to say that the problem is not the USA Distributors. No blame can be pointed at them period. Joyner USA is closing. http://buggynews.com/joyner-usa-t27744-60.html Garth Livermore said in this post that he won't go into detail publicly & he doesn’t want to come off as a "sour grapes" kind of guy. Well I don’t hold those qualities and like nothing more than getting my own back. I not going to now, but maybe sometime in the future.

    What I will say is, Ken Morris, Garth Livermore and Joyner USA can hold their heads up high, they haven’t failed you, the Joyner manufactures have.

    Mike.

    Hi Mike, Why cant they all just get along and make this work??? I am sure that they all have alot invested in time and money !!! I didnt have much hope in them, but I did wish that it would of all come together and worked out !!!

    Stevozz

  8. I agree with Lenny and hope I haven't overstated the no see um problem, the jamboree was definitely a good time, in spite of the little pests, but I want to get set up for my other outings so I can further enjoy them. Wheres the next one gonna be. I'm looking at foggers, to kill off the pest, but may get the good bugs, mosquito traps, should get most blood sucker, and other things. I think at our jamboree campsite, a fogger would have worked real well, as there were no other insects that would have been effected, but in a mountain camp site, a fogger would kill off the dragonflys and the mosquito catching spiders and such. I'm thinking mosquito trap may be best, but it doesn't get the regular house flies that are a pain when in the mountains.

    Think I'll start a new thread and copy this to there - Camping environment -

    Other than deet and repellents, has any one tried any thing else?

    Kinarfi

    Hi Kinarfi how are you doing? I hope enjoying your trooper. I have something that works real good for them pesty bugs, believe it or not try 2 oz of listerine mouth wash in a spray bottle then fill the bottle up with water and just spray it all around your camp, problem solved !!! and if it doesnt work with the bugs that are there just make it stronger. It does work and works well. It works for me, let me know how it works for you ok?

    Stevozz

  9. Thanks Steve, That was kind of my thinking also. Just wanted to hear from some others. I have never used synthetic oil, but I'm going to put it in trooper. I have about 25 hrs on engine since overhaul, going to wait for awhile, make sure rings get seated.. Thanks again,,,Quig

    everytime you change your oil keep an eye on your drain plug, to see how many shavings you get, should be less and less each time you change it, make sure you wipe off the shavings on the drain plug eachtime ok. the drain plug has a strong magnet in it.

    Stevozz

  10. Ok, I'm curious, when these troopers are new,"engine" you should break them in to let rings seat, & change oil & filter alot to get leftovers out of motor,,,,,,,I would guess new trooper is just like when I had my engine overhauled? I sent this message to ""drgnrdr""",, but he hasn't read yet..

    """ I just had my engine overhauled, was told not to use synthetic until rings are seated. Synthetic is toooo good to seat rings, machinist told me to use rotella 15-40 for quite awhile,. but also change oil & filter,often, just in case of metal left inside. I would guess your engine is not broke in? Quig """"

    Someone let me know if this is right or wrong? I was told by very smart member that it was right for me,,, Dumb,old,,Quig :rolleyes::mellow:B)

    Hi Quig, What I did my whole life with a new vehicle I drove it for 1000 miles not keeping it at a steady speed always up and down and not pushing it to hard or over reving, and yes change oil and filter often. As I would get over 500 miles I would push it alittle harder but not to over do it. Once I would hit 1000 miles I would switch to mobil 1 fully syn. To me 1000 miles was broken in, and I never had a problem with my new cars or motorcycles. I had little 4 cylinder cars that reached 250,000 miles and didnt do nothing to them, so the way I broke new engines in worked for me. With my trooper I went to 500 miles why because them miles were on trails rocks ect, meaning to me 500 miles on trails and rock ect were like 1000 miles on the street, but thats when I put in mobil 1 fully syn. So far so good. Everybody has their own way for breaking in a new engine, but the way I broke all of mine in worked for me. I hope that this helps you.

    Stevozz

  11. Stevozz. Time will tell. I just did the mod this winter so have not had a hot season yet to run it in. BUT I didn't have a problem before. I just wanted to improve & lighten the rig. There is a pic in my gallery that shows what I did plus an old post of around Dec/Jan when I was doing the shock & cage upgrades.

    rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

    when you do take it out let me know how it works with that expanded metal. I will go back to your photos and look again. Thank you for your time,

    Stevozz

  12. You can get used Nascar brake fans on ebay. I have four of them but have not mounted them yet. They attach to dryer vent hose / brake duct hose and can be directed air to where it is needed.

    Dust! I have found that you have to have a bit of air coming thu the firewall & under the bottom of the windshield to keep the dust in control. Not too much to make it windy, just enough to break the vacuum. I have tried having the windshield sealed to the top of the dash & limit air thu the firewall and you create a vacuum pulling the dust into the driver's area. I tried a half windshield and too much wind in the face. Found the best for US is about a 3/4 to 4/5 windshield.

    rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

    Hi Rocmoc, I heard that some guys blocked off the fire wall completely. But I am alittle worried about the engine heat, I live in arizona and do not want to over heat the engine. The windbreaker that I made is only 8" high and I do not have a windsheild just the breaker. Do you think that the expanded metal over your engine helped or no?

    Thanks Stevozz

  13. Been there but not to ride.Beautifull country up there.I live in Southern California and its about 350 miles or so away.We also have a place in Lake Havasu and I think its only 60 or 70 miles from there.I have heard there are some trails up there but never looked into it.It would be great to get together,maybe even during the summer months it might not be too hot up there.Have to checkout the weather info.

    You do live a ways from there. Thought you were closer. Yes we will have to look into it, let me know what you think ok. I have this feeling its going to be a very hot summer so yes its going to be alot better higher up in the mountains. Talk to you soon.

    Stevozz

  14. Thanks Steve, I am excited to get it out. Taking it out to Miller motorsports park here to cruise around during the world superbike races this weekend. Will be a nice place to just cruise around and see if any issues arise right off the bat. Expecting all to be fine and hope to take it out actually "off road" in the next couple weeks to see how it does. Still need to get to the front diff rebuild but that can be done over the next few weeks as I have time. Kinarfi can expect me down at his place soon for that one.... :) !!!

    Jeff

    Hi Jeff, You will have a great time with it. I did alot of changes with mine, there is a list of things to make it better and to have trouble free riding on this site. After doing the adjustments and sealing this and that you will have a great time. Every product has its own problems once you work them out these things are alot of fun !!! Have a great time !!!

    Stevozz

  15. Doing good buddy how are you? I only have about 1050 miles on it,yea yea yea I know most you guys have that many just pulling in and out of your garage.(lol)

    I am doing good too. Hey Rick do you ever get to the flagstaff area to ride, I was never there yet and would like to try it someday. How far are you away from flagstaff? we have to hook up one of these days and do some riding. I would love to meet everyone but to find and to get the time to do it is hard.

    Stevozz

  16. As Lenny said, I took the plastic access panels to the upper mount on the rear shocks and turned them into EARS. Cut a opening in the front and shimmed the front out to act as air scoops. I also cut the rear of the center console to allow better air flow thu the front. I have since the last summer adventure did away with the closed top cover over the engine with expanded metal. Works on my Trooper. I also think the 31" tires lets me manage the RPM's better resulting in better temp control. Hope some of this helps & good luck.

    rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

    ps. I will say when I pulled the rad, I did not like the construction. Very heavy & fins are too close for good cooling. Lots of room for a better designed rad.

    Yes I also agree about the rad, about the fins are too close, after every ride I always spray water through the rad fins to keep them open, I cannot believe how clogged up they get.

  17. As Lenny said, I took the plastic access panels to the upper mount on the rear shocks and turned them into EARS. Cut a opening in the front and shimmed the front out to act as air scoops. I also cut the rear of the center console to allow better air flow thu the front. I have since the last summer adventure did away with the closed top cover over the engine with expanded metal. Works on my Trooper. I also think the 31" tires lets me manage the RPM's better resulting in better temp control. Hope some of this helps & good luck.

    rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

    ps. I will say when I pulled the rad, I did not like the construction. Very heavy & fins are too close for good cooling. Lots of room for a better designed rad.

    Hi Rocmoc, With using that expanded metal on your bed do you also get less dust up front? when I am going straight into the wind I get alot of dust up front its really bad too, I know its part of my wind breaker that I made, but its really bad. Maybe that expanded metal will help there? For extra cooling I was thinking and going to test it soon, now dont laugh, but I had to buy another shop vac and I bought a big one this time, and I noticed that the vacuum atachment is really big, so I am going to buy 4 wide attachments with hoses and mount 2 on top of my roll cage and mount 1 on each side but alittle lower and then run 2 of the wide tubes to the top of the engine, and the ones that are mounted on the sides run them to both sides of the engine block. To me that should work like a ram air system what do you think? Would like to have your guys input. Once I am done with it I will take photos of it, after I test it and will see if it works.

    Stevozz

  18. My Trooper is the same year as Rocmocs but was built a bit later thus a few changes by the factory like larger brake disc. Anyway, I had lots of cooling problems with mine. It would overheat real easy so that I had to keep close track of it. I'm thinking I made the same body changes that Rocmoc did (cut out the front of the side scoops ) but it didn't work for me. Mine would still overheat to the point of steaming out the radiator cap. Maybe some stay cooler better then others. Could be as simple as Rocmoc having a cleaner block casting so internal coolant flow is better. I went to a somewhat larger radiator and higher CFM fan to solve the cooling problem which now gets up to about 190 degrees and stays there no matter how hard I work it and I have somewhat more power then stock but it still stays cool. For the oil pressure, I made a 9 quart aluminum oil pan. More oil and aluminum pan means cooler oil. This also worked, pressure stays much better now. I'm not a big fan of low oil pressure. Ok if your idling but if your at low rpms and working it, it's not the best. The stock Trooper doesn't do well at low rpms so normally they are kept at enough rpms to bring up the oil pressure so generally no problem. In my case with the supercharger, I'm generally running more in the lower rpm areas. I also run synthetic which gives better bearing support at low oil pressures and at high pressure points when it's hot. I also run 15w50 oil (Mobile 1) so it's a bit thicker then the 10w40 oils. This helps oil pressure some too. Then again, I put so much money into mine that I stay extra conservative about these things for fear of now blowing it to smitherines. So far so good, knock on wood.

    Actually feel ok about mods.

    Lenny

    PS, We should get points for how many words we post or is it the other way around. Maybe demerrits because, due to a lack of proper use of the english language, it takes me more words then others use to say the same thing.

    Thanks Lenny for the input. Mine never ran hot yet, Just looking for some ways to keep it cooler. I am not a big fan with these joyner gauges, just do not trust them. I do have to start using thicker motor oil though, when mine is at operating temp my oil light does come on when at idle and it does read real low, but my engine doesnt miss a beat, idles real smooth and absolutely no noise of any kind from it when oil light comes on. So I do not know if my gauge is off ect. If an engine has real low oil pressure shouldnt it sound different like alittle noisy and will idle rough? or am I think wrong here. Thanks for your input Stevozz
  19. Since changing the fuel lines have not seen any rubber in the tank.I also run one of those glass see through filters about every other run just to get a good glimpse of what is being filtered out.

    Yes thats a good idea Rick

  20. Going to do just that and keep a real close eye on it.My question now is anybody else have one that did not come with the oil canister? just wondering why they had it then did away with it if that was the case.

    Hi Rick, How are you doing? Just wanted to let you know mine is also an 09 and mine did not come with a canister either Stevozz How many miles do you have on yours now?

  21. I run the desert all the time and have never had a reason to add an oil cooler. Yes my pressure is as described but as Jarrad says no problem. I don't have a cooling problem since I made some plastic body changes to allow more airflow.

    rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

    Hi Rocmoc, What changes did you do for cooling? do you have photos? I would love to see them. Thanks for your time.

    Stevozz

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