huunz

Not all the parts will cross. Even though the thread pitch, size, etc, is correct, the Joyner filter adapter is just a few threads shy of long enough to reach the filter to fit Mazda branded under Bosch. I had two filters that should have worked, but they didn't. I used an old adapter from my 91 Nissan pickup, modified it slightly, and ran some -10 AN hose from it to a filter mount that holds two Fram PH8A filter elements. Pics are up in my gallery, can't post them in the thread itself.

I thought about the red RTV, just thought maybe someone had a better idea.....

OK, now I'm in need of header gaskets for my 650 Sand Spider. I didn't ruin them yet, but when i built the header I created a pinhole in the back (towards the front of the car) of the collector area, and it's driving me nuts. Just a little noise - sts, sts, sts...... I don't want to take it off to fix the pinhole without having a new gasket on hand in case I tear the gasket, because then I'll be back to the tiny exhaust leak issue again.... Anyone ever build their own header gaskets? Are there Joyner dealers with header gaskets in stock? TIA Mike

Yes, the guy on the other end of the phone at the Fast Freddie's number is Nick. There were three things I had to change - the main jets, the air mixer jets, and the tube that holds the jet assembly. The funny thing was, the jets had to be reduced in size dramatically. I would have thought that bigger jets would go faster, but in this case, too big of jets made it slower.

The parts came today, I put them in in about 10 minutes (less than half a beer) and with the right jets that buggy screams! Not as fast as my RZR, but a very nice ride. I did some bad bumps, and the Airshox in the rear are much smoother than the stock coil overs in the front.

It turns out there was a damaged jet or tube thingie, Nick is getting it right out to me.

Yeah, Mine were flimsy as well. Thanks for the tip!

How about CV boots? I tore mine testing the limits of the wheel travel. The travel is now limited so that won't happen again, but the boots are torn nonetheless. I have the 650 Sand Spider

Swapped the tires, and it runs great, up until half throttle, when it falls flat on its face. I called Nick and he said to change the float level first, so I did, but no change. Next up, new fuel filter.

I don't know if it is repair, or preemptive upgrades When i put in the rear Airshox, the upper end had to be on the beltline frame rail, and based upon the fine work i found on the control arms, I figured it was easier to tie the new spring/shock mount across to transfer the loads before I bent the dickens out of the whole frame. The header upgrade was simply changing the collector pipe out for the size that the math called for. The amazing thing is that the Joyner muffler was also 2.0", which was the size the collector should have been, and they put a swedge adapter in place to change the pipe from the 1.5" to the 2.0" just before the muffler. I had to move my muffler anyway to clear the new shock location, so changing the pipe size at the same time was a no brainer. As to the carb, I'm in the process of changing tires out (the Joyner wheels no longer fit the frame with the new shocks) so i can take it for a spin without paddles, which could be upsetting the float level and causing my carb tuning issues. Then I'll check the floats, if that doesn't change anything.

The new carb is in place, seems better, but I have a misfire. Also got the shocks in, and gussets, and sand shields. Pics up in my gallery.

The parts came from Fast Freddies last week. Nice Weber DCOE 45, and a couple of manifolds to adapt it to the Joyner head. 45 is huge relative to the ports in the head, but i didn't feel like pulling the head to do a porting job. The gaskets are hand made, and not what I would put on, so I didn't. I modified the provided gaskets for full flow, made a few other changes, and got it mostly hooked up. Still need to plug the water hole where Joyner had coolant running through the manifold.

They haven't come yet. Apparently, the parts were not all on the shelf, some had to be made, such as the manifold, which he said they machine from aluminum. The 6 Sigma parts were before the Fast Freddie order, and they obviously weren't going to work, or more accurately, they weren't gong to reply to my questions, so I kept looking. Interesting thing, when I moved the buggy from the carport to in front of the garage to work on the suspension while waiting for the carb, the accelerator pump didn't leak fuel. Self repair? IDK, but that doesn't mean I trust it. Weber will be better.

I tried a kit from a place called 6 Sigma Racing, off of eBay. Stay away! They sent me a few sheets of paper with various random non-applicable carb tuning tips, a bad copy of some service manual drawing for a carb other than the one I have (2 barrel vs. one barrel), three jets and four tiny drill bits. The photos and drawings depicted drilling out the pilot jets, but I don't know on what carb. When i tried to contact them, no response, so I filed a complaint with eBay, and then they got all nasty..... He said he'd refund my money if i sent it back, but no such thing happened. Beware!

I think I got the pictures to work. My link

I was able to find the gallery and upload my photos of the cracks. My link

I managed to pick up a set of Fox Airshox for free last week - 10" and 12". I've got the rear 10" mocked up on one side - the tailpipe has to move, but I was building a header anyway. The 10" will fit perfect on the rear using the stock lower mount (after repairing the cracks and bends), and welding on a new Poly Performance shock mount at the upper frame beltline on top. I don't know the valving yet, or the oil or pressure (Foxes tune with oil and nitrogen pressure), but they came off of a single-seat Chinese buggy of a different brand, so they may be close. I don't know how to post pics in the gallery, so nothing to show, although I did take the pictures to show....

I also had a cracked arm. I somehow have too many pictures up, so can't show my fix.

Fast Freddie's has a header solution, as well. I got the instructions, and figured out how to build my own. Here's the start - a 2" 90* mandrel bend and a 2" straight piece. I'll take out the original collector and put this in its place.

I found a place called "Fast Freddy's" in Santa Ana. They make a two barrel Weber side draft carb setup for the 650 Sand Spider. It isn't cheap, but it comes complete with every part needed to fit the Weber in your Joyner buggy, and forever eliminate the goofy Joyner carb setup. They also will modify your header for better output, or tell you how to do it yourself at a local muffler shop. When the parts come in I'll try and do a report on how it goes.

So will there be a new set of parts coming? I'm down for a simple thing - the accelerator pump diaphragm on my 650 Sand Spider. The part must cost all of $5, but doesn't see to be available. Are new service parts coming?

Here's a photo of the carb. The blue hose is my connector to the air cleaner pipe I built. I used a Uni filter on top. I was going to build a scoop setup, but didn't get it designed how I wanted.

I got sand or dirt in the carb at Pismo last weekend, making it run poorly, so I took it apart and cleaned it. The accelerator pump diaphragm curled up as i took it apart, but i thought i got it all back together correctly. I must have torn it somehow, as now it leaks. Where do I get the little parts for the carb? I've got the 650 Sand Spider, 2 cylinder, one barrel side draft carb.

Thanks Rick, that was the kind of info i was looking for. What would be a good swap, or would i be better off just doing mild hop ups on what i have? How about a 1,000 cc street bike motor? How would that do? The parking brake assembly came today, thanks again. Mike

Heavy relative to the suspension? Or to the rest of the car? I hadn't even considered that. I was just thinking of "more power" LOL