hdtran

If you search amazon and use "seat belt clip," you will find many things which can be plugged into your seat belt buckle. They are, of course, intended to attach to your dog's leash, and clip in the passenger-side buckle. No self-respecting safety professional would suggest that you clip in the driver's buckle, and ride your UTV without wearing a seat belt, even if the clip would make the vehicle think you were buckled in.

I greatly appreciate the technical details that you're giving me! I've got a section of hill about 1200 ft long with a 100 to 120 ft rise (according to Google Maps, anyway) right next to my driveway. I'll do some driving tests on that hill in the "M" (max range) setting, and pay attention to the gauges.

Understood, it's the power (watts). Amps are more directly related to torque, at least for DC motors. I didn't think that the lead-acid had that much of a voltage drop at higher currents. The motor temp monitor on the dash climbed as I was going up the continuous grade. At one point, a different error message came up (not 45C3, the low voltage error, which appeared a lot during the climb), and I had to just stop and wait for a few minutes before I could continue. I understand the controller has temperature sensors, and will try to keep my motor from overheating--but if it hits 80F in the mountains, it's a heat wave! What's the maximum continuous current draw (with a flat voltage curve, that'll be proportional to power) from your lithium batteries? 315 A-h (or if I only go to 15% max depth of discharge, effectively about 270 A-h) is more than enough range for me--I could pick up all the dead trees in our property without a single recharge all summer! Obviously, I'll have to deal with much colder weather than in Louisiana. I won't be driving the UTV much in winter--in a good snow year, it'll get snowed in, and won't emerge until spring--but storage temperatures will routinely hit 0F, and frequently -10F at night. I can keep the unit plugged in, unless we get a power outage 😉 . I think that's my other big concern--our average last frost date is around Memorial day, and they encourage not planting tender plants until end-of-June! And first freezing night can occur as early as Labor day! We're at higher altitude, the valley floor is around 8500-8600 feet. In the winter, they have a temperature inversion. In the valley, it may hit -20F, but at my altitude (about 9300 ft), 0F, is the typical low in the winter night.

Nice video! My E1 (2022 model, has the DeltaQ charger and the manual claims that it has the Sevcon Gen4) has been driven less than 60 miles in two years--I don't anticipate doing more than 30-40 miles a year, as it's mainly to go around our 8 acres to pick up downed trees, etc. The one time I decided to go to the local stores, it's 5 miles each way. It's downhill all the way to town, and uphill all the way back. The E1 struggled on the steady uphill--It started throwing low voltage errors, to the point where I had to stop and let the original batteries rest a few minutes, then go for a few minutes, repeat... The last two miles uphill are an average 7% grade, with some sections hitting a 10% grade. I would add that once I got home, I "tested" each battery using a Harbor Freight battery tester. Each of the lead-acids took a 100A draw from the tester for a few seconds without dropping huge amounts of voltage--so no one single lead-acid was bad. They just collectively could not handle the long continuous uphill. The question is: Most of the hills that I saw in your testing in the video were pretty short hills. How much current was it using on the steeper pitches? Can I drive for 8-10 minutes at a 200A draw (what I estimate I'd need to go between 10-20 mph uphill) without triggering a "too much current draw" with the series connection of your battery packs?

You really want to use an automotive or motorcycle battery tester to test your 12 V battery, and not just a multimeter. The automototive tester will apply a load to the battery and measure the voltage while the battery is discharging through the load.

Backup alert is behind the switch panel on the dash (switch panel is the panel with the rocker switches for left turn, right turn, etc.; it's in the center of the dash halfway between driver and passenger). If the tone is too loud for you, just remove the four screws holding the panel, gently pull out the panel. The buzzer is a squarish piece with a hollow. You can stuff some foam into the hollow, and that will greatly mute the sound. Once the sound is to your liking, just put the panel back in place. I ought to do a short video and post that--really easy to do. 😗

For those of you contemplating swapping out your batteries, I found this video on youtube. I like that he goes into how to remove various nuts-and-bolts to remove the old batteries.

Have you looked in the "files" section (go to the top of the forums, click download button)? People have kindly uploaded wiring diagrams for other Hisun models, and what looks like a Hisun 800 service manual. Disconnected plugs *MAY* be wiring for optional accessories, such as light bars, etc. Best of luck!

Chris Murray, thanks for the photos!! These are great! A few questions, as I intend to attempt a similar project in the next year or two (I'd keep the DeltaQ charger and leave it where it is): (a) Did you move the charging port from "inside the glove box" to "where the gas cap would be"? (b) How difficult is it to remove the dashboard panel to put in the battery gauge? (c) Same question for the various panels in front of the bench seat and the front driveshaft tunnel? (d) On a level of mechanical (and electrical) difficulty, where (1) is "changing the oil in a car" and (5) is "replacing drum brakes in a car"; for electrical, (1) is "installing/replacing a 120V outlet without electrocuting yourself" and (5) is "adding an electrical subpanel to your house without electrocuting yourself", how would you rate the difficulty of your overall removal of original batteries and installation of new batteries? Thanks!!

Gorj, did you sort out the "nothing coming out of the charger" issue? Thanks!

I'm speaking speculatively (as in I have not done this). The Sector E1 uses the Sevcon Gen4 controller. You can get PDFs of the Sevcon manual; according to the manual, you can set limits on the regenerative braking maximum current. That said, 400 amps of current is a lot of regenerative torque/braking!

Yes, Joe--when braking very hard, locked wheels will travel faster over pavement (or dirt, mud, etc.) than rolling wheels. If you're interested in the details, look up "coefficient of kinetic friction." If you're not braking, you still have control issues--the skidding wheels do not steer, and do not resist sideways motion as well as the rolling or driving wheels (the math gets really hairy for me, look up "nonholonomic systems"--that's where I gave up in school 🙃).

When wheels lock (usually the rear), the locked wheels usually break loose from the pavement, and will want to go faster over the road than the non-locked wheels. If they are the rear wheels that go faster over the road, your UTV will go sideways. If you slow down and/or steer poorly, you will get a moment (a torque) that may tip you over--especially if the UTV is top-heavy. I guess I'm getting confirmation bias to continue not to wear a helmet, especially when riding in my wooded 8 acres to collect downed trees and/or cut undergrowth, dead trees, etc.

Gorj, have you seen the posts about the inline fuse above the batteries? For example

Good luck! I just got a Sector E1 a couple of months ago. The only use will be spring-thru-autumn for firewood collection. I'm at about 9300 ft altitude, and in the winter, we get more than 150" of snow--the E1 will be outside (with a cover). I'm hoping the batteries will survive 3-4 months of winter (I'll charge them before parking the unit for the winter)--and that neither mice nor pack-rats decide to make their home in the battery compartment 😜 Please update if your intermittent comes up again!

That's the question! Or, if you want to add details: (a) How do you use the UTV? (roads? off-road to get to trees? etc.) (b) If you are wearing a helmet--how frequently? What type of helmet? My own answers: (a) Most of the time off-road to get to downed trees, cut the trees to logs and haul the logs back for splitting. (b) Very rarely, a ski helmet and not a motorcycle helmet.

Hello, according to the manual, the 54C3 error looks like: 54C3 | MOSFET s/c M1>B+ MOSFET | IGBT s/c detection on M1 top devices The IGBTs are part of the electric power switching system for the main drive. M1 indicates one of the phase wires going to the motor. Since it's intermittent, I suspect dirt, corrosion, or contamination on the electrical contacts. I'd think about cleaning the contacts. I'd suggest using personal protective equipment (nitrile gloves, maybe leather gloves on top of the nitrile gloves), safety glasses at a minimum. Unplug the charger, make sure the key is off and removed. Then, I'd suggest removing the seat, and using a DRY toothbrush (or similar plastic brush) and brush all the contacts on or near the motor controller module (and the main contactor/relay/solenoid). (This is a black module fastened near the middle batteries). I'd also think about using a compressed air gun (don't let the tip get near the batteries or any of the contacts!) or a spray duster and spray around the contacts at the motor controller. Then, I'd go to the motor itself, and look at where the wires are attached--see if you can see crud, dirt, corrosion, etc. and clean around the motor and where the power wires connect to the motor. Good luck, and please let us know how things go!

Update: my dealer found the remote. Serial number matches the receiver module. I've picked up the remote but haven't tested yet.

Well, it looks like there is a winch remote receiver mounted under the front hood. I just contacted the dealer to ask them if they forgot to give me the winch remote transmitter, or if that's an upcharge. I'll update when I hear from them.

It's not immediately obvious to me how to wire a remote control (wired or wireless) on the Sector E1. Has anyone here done this? Do you have pictures on how to get to the wiring? Thanks!

Hello, The engine lubrication oil is not the same as the transmission/differential oil. The engine oil does "bathe" the clutch. When you change the oil, there are different intervals for the engine and for the transmission/differential case. The oil types are also different for the engine and the differential case. Best regards.

Hy (pronounce he), just bought a Hisun Sector E1. I'll be using it to haul logs and stuff in the Sangre de Cristo mountains.