2014 KymcoUXV700i blinking LED engine compartment, code 21 P0105 atmospheric pressure Map sensor ?>
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By Phil S
I have a Massimo Buck 450 and last winter I had the snow plough added by my dealer. After about 15 minutes of ploughing the plough went down but would not lift up. Upon inspection, it appears that the winch is permanently in the free-spool. When you try to wind back in the spool just spins. It is out of warranty and upon looking at replacing I am not sure how I would go about it.
Has anyone had similar issues?
Has anyone replaced it with a new winch? is so what model and how was it installed?
Any help is welcomed.
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By malenurse13
We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used.
The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn.
THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you!
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By Robc
Such a simple task and I can't do it. The repair manual is of no use.
I removed all the plastic fasteners from the engine housing and the back end lifts up about 3/4" . Something is holding the front near the cup holders. I'm afraid to use much force for fear of breaking something.
Help please!!
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By papillion22
I'll start by saying i'm learning as i go & have come a long way, but there are some maintenance issues on my mule sx that must be addressed & i've got nobody around with experience & cannot bring it to a shop.
I've got rolling resistance when i jack up the front wheels. Months ago i thought i was possibly a brake issue but didn't yet have the equip. to pull the wheel hubs or press them back on... but the noise/friction seemed to resolve itself. I just checked up on it because i've got the tools for dealing with the brake system now and i noticed the wheels dont really spin... theres a lot of resistance and i can hear it coming from the front diff. I can't remember if it used to do that before, but i dont think it did. Its not the drive shaft or u-joints, but i've yet to pull them to be certain. it really sounds like its in the front diff. just where the drive shaft connects.
Should the front wheels - when in neutral and in 2wd and no diff. lock - spin freely? Theres too much drag for mine to even go once around. Can anyone point me in a direction? Otherwise its trial and error with cv axles, ball joints, brakes, etc. and i dont have the $ or time for that.
I'm in over my head and really hoping someone can help. I'll try to make a video of whats happening, hopefully the sound will come through well. Maybe that will help diagnose it. Thanks.
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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