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By Sidewinder
All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.
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By John Gubancsik
After sitting this winter in a garage, I noticed coolant under the side by side when I went to get it out. Does anyone know what would cause the coolant to leak out while in storage? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
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By lmarkie
I swapped out the Subaru motor for a Predator 670cc. If I remove the heat shield around the muffler, The stock muffler sits in there just fine with 1" to spare.
Only problem is the exhaust exit is toward the back seat instead of out the back.
Do you all think that the stock exhaust would be okay (just as effective) if cut a hole and welded a pipe on the reversed (opposite) end? Of course, plug the old exit end. Other option I thought of was to roll a tube 180° with a 7" center line radius and finish extention of 12" or so.
Any thoughts?
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By riggy400
Bought a Coleman 400 UTV (pretty much a Hisun), the previous owner tried to replace the timing chain, couldn't time it properly and sold it to me. After some hours I figured out how the timing all is supposed to be set (I think/hope) and as I am reassembling, I noticed that the water pump gear was awfully hard to spin. I held the gear with my hand and spun off the impeller. I checked the bearing, spins great no obvious issues noticed other than this o-ring which seems to be out of place? When I remove this o-ring and reassemble the WP, it seems to spin nice and easy without a drag. I looked up the service manual (although very inaccurate info there often) and don't see this o-ring present. Am I missing something here or what? Any input?
This is not easy to access once the engine is back in the machine so would like to avoid having to deal with this if it becomes a problem.
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By monkthumper
Fuel pump and cooling fan inop. I have the fuel pump hot wired that keeps me goin but now cooling fan wont kick on. I'm bout to look for a scanner hook-up unless someone can give me direction, any help?
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