2016 Hisun 500 turns over,no start
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By Jon C
Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers.
I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake).
After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue.
I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament.
Please let me know if you have had similar issues.
Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.
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By aefron88
Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft.
I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005".
This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow).
Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags
First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat.
Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX)
Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out.
Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose.
Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force.
If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance.
That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again.
If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these
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By Travis
you're sick of chinese Crap but really can't afford the good OEM part?
Starter on the mule, i finally replaced the old D&B electrical starter (on august 28th) on it that was at least 5 years old with probably a million starts on it and apparently D&B no longer makes it/sells it, so i bought a $53 starter from CHYNA on amazon.. on august 19th, well here it is barely 1.5 months later, it clicks several times before it will spin over, all connections were good and i tested the key switch, and trigger wire voltage as well as the starter relay according to the service manual and they all check out. usually a tap with a hammer or if i turn the key back and forth fast several times it will kick in and start. would it be worth my time to remove the starter and lube it??
I've got the Denso and Kawasaki part numbers but boy... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
even a Reman denso is $230.
does anyone know of a decent aftermarket starter maker that might have one?
i've 12.5 volts at the big cable, and i get the same at the trigger wire as the manual states, but when its in F or R i get no voltage at the trigger, so i know the Neutral safety is working properly.
and if anyone can find one the DB starter was 190-542 18450
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By Jay Joseph
I have a 2019 CF Moto uforce 1000 my yellow engine light is on and I bought a diagnostics tool online I plugged it into my machine and it came back with error code O2 sensors so I replaced them both plug the diagnostic tool back in the yellow light was off. I let it sit for two days and now the yellow lights back on and when I plug the diagnostic tool back in it says O2 sensor low-voltage bank two sensor one. Does anyone know what this means? Replace both sensors with new ones. I thought I’d save some money and not bring it to a dealer, but looks like I might have to. I took my machine up to camp and it ran like crap almost like it was getting too much gas. Half throttle it was all right but climbing hills, and going over certain terrain it would just die out
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By Spencer Marks
Hello all,
I just finished replacing my front and rear drive shafts. I drained and put new dif fluid in the rear dif. I went to the local dealer and they told me the fill capacity of the front and the transmission as I want to replcae that as well but they could not tell me how to access the fill. One how do I access the fill for front dif and 2 is the transmission fill the same as the rear dif? I don't see a dip stick or fill for the transmission but all in same area.
Also, anyone can suggest a good shop/service manual for this bike?
Thanks
Spencer
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