-
Popular Now
-
-
Similar Topics
-
By rdc
I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC
-
By John Gubancsik
After sitting this winter in a garage, I noticed coolant under the side by side when I went to get it out. Does anyone know what would cause the coolant to leak out while in storage? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
John
-
By dragon
I need help I have a 2016 Kubota 1100 RTV my tilt steering wheel locked in the upper position after using the side release. The handle works but does not release the steering wheel to a lower position. If anyone knows and easy fix, please let me know any help is appreciated. Be Safe, Thanks!
-
By dragon
Hi everyone, I am new to the site and I have one question. My tilt steering wheel is locked in the upper position, and I was hoping for someone could help me with the problem. I did spray some WD 40 in the area of the mechanism but still wheel is locked in the upper most position. I am willing to try anything to get the wheel free and move to a lower position. Any ideas will be appreciated. Thanks!! and Be Safe!
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.