Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am having an erratic issue.  Sometimes the solenoid/relay does not activate when switching on the power.  Thus the electric motor does not work. You can hear the solenoid activate because it is right under the seat in the middle. The solenoid/relay connects the batteries to the electric motor circuit. When it fails at making the connection I get a 54C3 code on the display.

Posted (edited)

Hello, according to the manual, the 54C3 error looks like:

54C3  |  MOSFET s/c M1>B+ MOSFET |   IGBT s/c detection on M1 top devices

The IGBTs are part of the electric power switching system for the main drive. M1 indicates one of the phase wires going to the motor. Since it's intermittent, I suspect dirt, corrosion, or contamination on the electrical contacts. I'd think about cleaning the contacts. I'd suggest using personal protective equipment (nitrile gloves, maybe leather gloves on top of the nitrile gloves), safety glasses at a minimum.  Unplug the charger, make sure the key is off and removed.  Then, I'd suggest removing the seat, and using a DRY toothbrush (or similar plastic brush) and brush all the contacts on or near the motor controller module (and the main contactor/relay/solenoid). (This is a black module fastened near the middle batteries). I'd also think about using a compressed air gun (don't let the tip get near the batteries or any of the contacts!) or a spray duster and spray around the contacts at the motor controller. Then, I'd go to the motor itself, and look at where the wires are attached--see if you can see crud, dirt, corrosion, etc. and clean around the motor and where the power wires connect to the motor.

Good luck, and please let us know how things go!

 

 

Edited by hdtran
added stuff that may want cleaning
Posted

Thanks for the suggestions. I had read the manual for the diagnostics on the code. I have checked and cleaned all the visible electrical connections. Although I have seen no corrosion, I applied an anti corrosion spray and cleaner. I have also checked all electrical connection for tightness. Right now it is working fine. I will wait and see what happens in the future. I am in the fourth year of having this E1 and except for the parking brake never working well, even though it has been in the shop for a repair, it has been a very reliable vehicle. I the idea of the EV, for I have owned an EV car and two hybrids, but I am concerned about how sensitive all the electronics are and the fact that there are few techs that can repair them. Fortunately I am both a retired auto tech and a retired IT so I do have a few insights into their workings. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Good luck! I just got a Sector E1 a couple of months ago. The only use will be spring-thru-autumn for firewood collection. I'm at about 9300 ft altitude, and in the winter, we get more than 150" of snow--the E1 will be outside (with a cover). I'm hoping the batteries will survive 3-4 months of winter (I'll charge them before parking the unit for the winter)--and that neither mice nor pack-rats decide to make their home in the battery compartment 😜

Please update if your intermittent comes up again!

Posted

The batteries will last longer if you keep a charge on them about once a week.  I would suggest you use a timer to  charge every ten days or so when parked. The batteries are expensive and you do not want to have to replace them. I am on the original batteries now for four years and I charge once a week all year around.. 

Posted

What condition is your 12v battery in? By which I mean the little one that sits right under the driver's seat? After four years it might be on the way out, and that could explain the occasional misfire on the solenoid. It's the 12v supply that turns the solenoid on, connecting the 48v battery set to the controller and motor.

Posted

The 12 battery was replaced last year. It is in good shape. Actually I checked the voltage going to the solenoid and it is 24 volts. So it must get its power from half of the drive batteries. I made a small 3/8" hole in the plastic area of the solenoid and sprayed contact cleaner in the contact area and then blew it out and cover the hole with a plug. So far everything is working as it should.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Popular Now

  • Similar Topics

    • By rdc
      I posted this before , but I had the year wrong. The part I need is for a 2014, I don't know what all years will work, but I need the 2 bearing style with the spacer in the middle. It looks like this pic. If anyone has one I'll buy it rite away. my email is [email protected]. Thanks, RC

    • By Sidewinder
      All mid 2008 through 2014 Polaris RZR 800 series have a big problem with the rear differential pinion nut backing off, allowing the pinion gear to shoot into the rear differential, destroying the rear differential. This has happened with machines with as little as less than 100 miles on them! Reports indicate that there are no problems, nor warnings, until the rear differential grenades, locking the rear axles solid! This requires the machine to be lifted onto a trailer, to be transported for rear differential replacement, as it destroys the case. After failure, rear differential replacement can be quite expensive: labor alone can run from $800-$1200 and a new OEM Spicer rear diff, if you can find one, can run from $1700-$2500! So, if you own any Polaris RZR 800 series between the years of 2008-2014, I recommend that you do this repair before further use of your machine. personally, I have grounded my machine until it can be done. Please check the online post for your own awareness.

    • By fikey
      I am about 6 months in to owning my 520. It is used mainly to run back and forth to our barn and shop. Occasionally, I run it up and down a few fairly steep hills on the property. One day, as I was going up one of the hills, the motor started sputtering and a tremendous amount of smoke was coming out of the exhaust. I was near the top and it made it (sputtering) up. Once back on the flat, I made it home. I loaded it on the trailer and took it back to the dealer. They said they checked everything out and found no issues. Over the next month or so, I only had occasion to go up hills once or twice with no issue. Then one day, again as I was going up a hill, the engine sputtered, giant plume of white smoke and then the engine died. 30 seconds later, started up and made it to the top. Repeated the route (down and up) and the same thing happened again. Called the dealer and their head of service said he would come out and wanted to see it first hand. He came out a few days later and repeated the route several time and it never happened with him in it. I had videoed the whole thing on one of the times it happened to me, but since it happens intermittently, could not produce it when he was here. I told him that I had checked the temperature, the oil level and the antifreeze level after each occurrence and they were normal. I asked him to call Kubota and ask what the possibilities were and that I am not fond of it dying on the hill and blowing the smoke and I didn't want to wait until something catastrophic happened to figure it out. When I followed up, they had no answers (which doesn't exactly please me). Any ideas? The attached photo was the start of the smoking. Didn't know how to upload the video of the whole thing, but it fogged the whole area.

    • By AaronD1982
      I recently purchased a 2019 or 2020 (no manual) Massimo 400S Buck Series UTV.  It ran fine for a couple days but the low battery light was flashing while it drove.  It then died in the field one day and I was able to jump the battery and get it rolling enough to get back to the barn.  It started both times I turned the key for a couple days after and when driven died 10 minutes later in the driveway.  Even after jumping it had no juice, but with the key out of the ignition it kept trying to start, a quick look on the Google machine and it suggested starter solenoid or ignition switch was the culprit.  Fair enough, let's just order a replacement solenoid, right?  No way Jose....the pin connector on the UTV is a 2-pin white plastic connector and the part received is a 4 pin.  How do I swap that and make it work?  Can I even?  Where do I find correct parts in the future?
×
×
  • Create New...