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By camojay
When we first heard the noise, we immediately stopped driving it...at first we thought it might be a linkage issue, but after further inspection looks like the sound/jolting is coming from the rear diff. Took a video below...
Anyone know what is creating the diff to skip/jump like this? We drained the diff oil and didn't look terrible, no metal.
Other info that may be useful:
1400 miles on it
Recently tightened the E brake
P.s. never posted on this forum before, let me know if the video does not work
20240817_133539_1.mp4
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By Alien10
I added lights to the Coleman Outfitter 550 last fall. I bought lights on line from Nilight, a 300 W 12" light bar mounted forward and 2 square 4" floods for the rear. Those are mounted on the roof corners facing rear and downward just beyond the tailgate. Nilights seem to be of high quality, as I've had them on my garden tractor for 5 years and still flood the way ahead with great light.
Both the front and rear lights provide amazing illumination making the OEM headlamps look like parking lights. Made a connector for the front bar that plugs into existing headlamp switch so it is just part of that circuit controlled by the headlamp switch. Rear work lamps were wired in using a rocker switch installed in the dash. Backed up to the garden with the work lights and was able to harvest some tomatoes well past sunset.
What have you used if anything for auxiliary lighting on your UTV?
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By FGT
QUESTION: How to wire the C/B into this current dual battery set up.
EXISTING SITUATION: MAIN Battery is OEM and feeds OEM circuits. Added an AUX Battery in the OEM dual battery location. Connected the AUX - terminal to the MAIN - terminal. Connected the 100A Accessory Fuse Block power cable to the AUX + terminal. Installed a smart isolator between AUX and MAIN batteries where a cable from AUX + goes to the isolator and a cable from isolator to MAIN battery + terminal. Installed separate QD battery tender cables to both AUX and MAIN batteries + and -. The dual battery system appears to work as intended. For this Phase 1 improvement, to avoid having to constantly pull the leads on the AUX + battery post off and put on, for testing or maintenance of Accessory circuits, I wanted a more convenient and safer way to open the circuit from the AUX battery + terminal the Accessory Fuse Block. I called an off road dealership and was told to install a much larger capacity circuit breaker than the 100A rated Fuse Block and was recommended to get a 250A C/B like the one in the pic, which I did. I was told the reason for the C/B high amp rating was two-fold (a) to trip in the event of a battery short circuit and (b) to be able to conveniently open the C/B to kill power to the Accessory Fuse Block without removing leads from the AUX + terminal. The 250A C/B has two posts labelled "BAT LOAD" and "BAT LINE". There are currently three connections to the AUX + post: (1) Accessory Fuse Block power cable, (2) cable to Isolator AUX in terminal, (3) cable from AUX battery charger.
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By Bryan83c
Need input on compatible clutch sets I can upgrade joyner 1100cc 2018 sand viper with. Something autozone might carry and what cars are these chery motors most compatibility with
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By The Road Hound
Hi,
New to the forum.
Came here looking for some experienced UTV users who can enlighten me about which brand should I pick for my very first UTV or SXS.
I'm between 3 brands and 3 models:
*Kawasaki MULE PRO-FXR 1000.
*Yamaha wolverine rmax2.
*Can am Commander XTP.
The use I'm willing to give it is mostly to go to the range with my wife, load steel targets and all our shooting gear, we shoot a lot, rifles, Shotguns and Handguns for practice, training and competition. (Range is about 10 miles from home)
But also I want something that I can take to the trails and have fun on dirt, mud, rocks, puddles or creeks.
Any objective information will be appreciated, specially which is more reliable and durable.
Thank you and happy 4th of July.
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